lmdew

Not yet, this has moved to the back burner for a few weeks. I did find the same car in a yard today and pulled the evap switch, the control panel and all the relays. When I get back to it, I'll give them a shot one at a time. Thanks for the help. Larry

That's what I was thinking. I pulled the switch, destroyed it getting it out and put in a good one I had. Same results. I have power at the AC Switch both into the switch and out when the main control plug is unplugged. When I plug the main connector back in, the output voltage dropps to 0. I have to get the correct wiring diagram for this car. I have the same diagram you have from the wire codes you've given me and none of the wire colors match the car. Strange! Thanks for taking the time to help on this. Larry

Both Fuses in the AC Relay holder are good. What I think is the AC Relay holder is in the engine compartment, Drivers side in the fuse/relay box. There is a mount for the AC Relay, Fan and Sub Fan. At the front, there are 2 15 amp fuses. Am I in the wrong place?

I purchased Joshua's 98 Impreza wagon (Red). It went through 3 dealers before I got it, and the paperwork is a mess. I need to get a good title. If you know this fellow, please have him contact me. I'll pay him for his time and trouble. Thanks Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

The wiring looks original. I guess I'll have to check the years before and after and see if the wire codes changed. There is power at the switch, but not full power coming out of the switch when everything is hooked AC control panel is hook up. Something is diverting power, wiring fun!

I have a 98 Impreza Wagon that the AC will not run on. The following has been checked: - AC Switch light comes on when pressed - Fuses are good, relays are good - Jumping the pressure switch does not turn on the Compressor - The radiator fans do not come on with the AC selected - If the relay contacts for the compressor are jumped the compressor kicks in - There is no power at the coil for the AC relay The relay wires are as follows: Coil: Green-Red stripe and Brown Contacts: Green-Orange stripe and Blue I have several wiring diagrams, but none of them match up. It looks like the coil gets power directly from the switch, so pulling it and checking power there will be my next step. It would be Great to have the correct diagram. Thanks Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

I've put WRX and STI Struts on my 98 OBS and my Daughters 93 Impreza Sedan. Yes you do have camber out of limits unless you get camber bolts or use Subaru Front camber bolts and mod the strut and knuckle. I left mine with the camber out of limits a degree or so and have not had a problem with either car.

I'm looking for Joshua P. Peck. He use to own a Red 98 Impreza Wagon. I have purchased this car after it went through several Dealers and the Title paperwork needs some help. Originally he was in Nashua, NH and he may have moved to SC. Thanks, Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

You might want to clear the code and see if it comes back. The junk yard will have one for you I'm sure. They don't go bad to often so its worth a shot. You may also want to just pull it out and clean of the end of the sensor. I've seen them full of metal and junk. Takes about 5 minutes.

One easy fix is to purchase low mile WRX hubs. The Nasioc guys are selling them all the time as they upgrade and part out there wrecks.

There is a 98 on the Denver Craigslist for 400.

I think the nut plate inside must be sealed or held in place with some adhesive. I tried to push it back a few weeks ago. I could only move the plate a 1/16" or so. It took a wood block and a good wack to get it to move (bolts loose while moving it).

If the links don't fix it I have a good used one. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Here's a link that is complete you can search for 5X100, I just put Dodge rims on my Impreza. Bolt Patterns of all Makes & models of vehicles - MX6.com

Fixed. Just had to remove the bottom sill trim, loosen the two bolts and give it a wack with the board and hammer. I moved it back about 3/16" and it no longer rattles. Solid as can be. There is a little adjustment in just the latch plate, but I needed more. Anyone have the cure for the Rear hatch rattle on a 98 Impreza. There does not seem to be much adjustment in the hook and none in the latch. The bumpers are in good condition as is the seal. Am I missing an adjustment point, Thanks, Larry

You should get it and then give it to me. Any Subaru that's complete and runs can be a daily driver again. Snag it!

Yep, I have the complete setup. I found the other half today. My PayPal is Lmdew@hotmail.com Please use a business address and include a phone # for the FedEx shipping. Larry

Get a small chunk of angle iron 1/4 or 3/8" thick with 1 or so legs. Tap the crankshaft timing gear for bolts, there are two holes in there already. Drill the angle iron for the puller bolts and then pull it off.

You can always go to NASIOC and pick up a set of WRX brakes. Cheap, under $200 for rotors and calipers. You will need 16" wheels to run these.

Found a nice set of 15" Dodge Snow Flake Wheels (5 x 100) at the best yard in Colorado Springs. These wheels are set up for the large flanged lug nuts Dodge uses, and putting the standard Subaru lug nuts on puts the lug nut way down in the tapper of the wheel. Has anyone found a lug nut with the large flange and the correct Subaru thread to make the bolt up a little better? Thanks

The STI Struts are great! The backs will bolt right up using the Impreza Springs and top hats. The STI Springs are tappered and will not fit the OBS top hats. (Note, I think you could get the older legacy wagon top hats that have the tappered springs and then the STI springs would work.) The fronts are a little more work. The top hats will bolt right in, but the knuckle mount holes are off by about 3/8" and the mount is wider than the knuckle. Here's what I did to solve both problems. - Remove the old struts and cut off the mounting plates. - Drill out the spot welds so you can seperate the inner and outter plates. You will use the inner plates. - Clean everything up and remove the paint along the edge for welding. - Insert the plates you cut off inside the STI struts mounting channel. - Use the top adjustment hole as the master and align them with the existing hole. - Clamp the new plates to the struts with the center line of the lower hole aligned. - Weld the plates in place along the outter edge. There is no reason to weld the inner edge and this also reduces the heat put into the strut. (Get them tig welded to reduce the heat transfer) - Drill out the lower holes. I used an old knuckle as my clamp and alignment jig. It worked well and I drilled a little undersized so I could file the new hole out to the existing hole in the old plates. - Paint and then apply silcone sealer to all open seams (the ones you did not weld). -Bolt them up and get an alignment. The rears gave me a little lift (1/2 - 3/4") The fronts a small drop, less than 1/2". Rides great!

I have several good used alt. $40 shipped. All I need is a picture of yours to match the plugs. Some are round and other are square. Lmdew@hotmail.com

It was a fellows car from work and he's happy with it the way it is. I like the hose idea and will try it the next time I get my hands on his car. The plug spins like its ready to come out buy just won't do it.

Sounds like a trans to me. Have you changed the gear lube? I'd drain it and see what comes out. New gear lube won't solve the problem, but looking at the drained lube will give you a good idea of the state of the trans.

I don't think it cross threaded as it turns freely. Tried grabing it with a pliers no luck. I was thinking about running the engine with it loose to see if it would blow out, but I don't want to go there yet.