lmdew
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Everything posted by lmdew
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Fix things when they fail. Hope you did the cam and crank seals as well as the oil pump seal and rear plate screws when you were in there for the timing belt. If not, leave them until they start leaking. Rear Breather plate reseal, when you do the clutch and flywheel. Great car. Keep the fluids full and clean and you are good to go. NGK copper core plugs and wires or Subaru wires. Enjoy! -
Find a good Subaru Mechanic! You have already changed parts that were not needed. Non-Subaru halfshafts are known to cause vibration problems.
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Did you have to rewire the radio? If it's just plug and play radio swap I'd put the old one back in. I'm guessing a different ground. With a remote start, security system you are dealing with a few unknowns in there.
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EGR or no EGR? If the wiring mods are on the intake side of the connector, it may be easier just to grab a 2.2 manifold and install it. www.car-part.com is a good source. If you have self-server yards near you that's even better.
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It's happended to many folks. Always good to get it on the road again.
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Yep, way up high. Drop the kick panel, move the seat all the way back and get under the dash.
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I have good ones if you need one. Colorado Springs, CO 80919
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Change the CVT fluid to Amsoil CVT fluid for the life of the trans. A good independent shop that knows Subaru. Find one and stick with them for all maintenance. You'll like it.
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It's a direct mechanical drive. I'd spin it by hand first to make sure it's free. Have someone in the car to look and listen. You may have pulled it loose from the back of the dash when you did the engine change. It's tight, but if you drop the kick panel you can worm your hand up to the back of the cluster and push the spedo cable in to seat it.
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Sping the speedo cable at the transmission end and see if the speedometer goes. Lots of times they will become disconnected behind the dash. It just plugs in. IAC cleaning is always a good start.
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Great car. Mileage will be less then the Honda. Subaru AWD eats some of that mileage. It's a trade. I had a 98 OBS 325K on it when I sold it and it's still going. I have a 2001 OBS now. Both were lifted with Forester struts. Great cars, easy to work on. Ask if and when the timing belt was replaced and hopefully they did all the idlers and cam and crank seals as well.
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Best of Luck
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Might go with a stock one that has the mount. Pretty easy to get. www.car-part.com
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They are very easy to crossthread. Loosen or remove the small bracket between the lines. The B-Nut should thread on by hand a good way. If you need lines let me know, I have some. What year and model are you working on?
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Hit the local junk yards. I'm sure you will find many. Pull all the parts you need. End Links Swaybar Bushings Bushing brackets. www.car-part.com is also a good source, but you need everything.
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Yes most can be machined and returned flat and true. Reseal the breather plate on the back of the block.
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Lots of selfserve lots in CO. Littleton is good as are the UPAP. www.car-part.com is also good.
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www.car-part.com
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Amsoil ships free over $100. Get 2 oil changes and filters and you are set for 2 years.
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Get it evacuated. Change the compressor and Evap o-rings and then service the system. A good AC Shop will pull a vacuume and then properly service it. Worth the money. I have pulled a slight vaccume with my hand pump and then serviced the system based on the specified amount of coolant. It works.
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selfserve Junk yards are always a good place to practice removals! The oring may just be hard.
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A local yard may have one as well.
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lmdew2@gmail.com
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A friend had a like problem. I recommended a transmission shop check and they found a bad speed sensor. He went to the yard and pulled it, put it in. Problem fixed. Trans shop will have a scanner that will pull the data.