lmdew

When you pump the brakes to bleed, put a 2x4 under the pedal so you stay in the same stroke range as when the MC is in normal use. If you go full stroke, you are putting the seals into the junk that may have built up in the MC. I have one off a 96 with booster that is good if you need it. $35+shipping. Lmdew@hotmail.com

The front tires will fit, but the rears will NOT. The spring seat is about an 1" lower on the Legacy compared to the Outback Struts. I tried it and found out the hard way! A fellow on the Denver Craigslist has a set of Outback Struts he wants $100 for. Later, Larry

Check all the T-belt idler pulleys, if they are spinning free and no excessive noise then they should make it for another 60K. The old style tensioner are very good and should not have to be replaced as long as they are good when you compress them (SLOWLY). I you have the new style tensioner, hit the yard for an old style one and the mounting block which bolts up to the engine. That's half your costs right there.

Does you AT Temp light flash 16 times after you start the car? If so you have a fault code stored in the TCU. Most likely the C solenoid is bad or its wire is broken. You may also want to drain the trans fluid and do a flush of the system. Lots of post on that. The up front oil leak is easy, but the t-belt has to come off to change the seals. You may also want to do the water pump at the same time.

I found another fix, remove the return assy that Subaru has installed, its to the left of the pedal assy. You will see when it operates, it reduces the pedal force needed to operate the clutch. It consists of a plunger spring and cam. Its a silly design. Pull it off and hit the hardware store for a 6" spring. Hook it to the clutch pedal an to the metal structur of the dash. Works great light clutch force and positive return. Make sure its clearing everything as it operates. About $3.00 and its fixed.

The fabric panels can be replaced, just screwed in from the back. Seat covers come off without too much problem and wash up nice. Sorry this was not a few months ago, I tossed a complete set from a 96 cause no one wanted them.

Look at the bottom of the Timing belt cover, if it has oil on it one of 4 things could be the source: Cam Seals either side Crank Seal Oil Pump O-ring Oil Pump rear seal plate. All require the T-belt to come off. If it was only at the rear of the engine, I'd guess the air/oil seperator plate was leaking (behind the flex plate or fly wheel, auto/standard trans). Rear cam cover plate on the back of the head is another common leak source. Clean it up, and then check it often to see where the leak is coming from.

If they want that much for the gaskets, look for another Subaru Shop. The third option is a rebuilt engine from www.ccrengines.com. They are in Denver, best Subaru engines you can get and not much more than they want to charge you for the HG.

You are dumping the computers memory and it needs to relearn the best settings. If its not broken, don't fix it. Keep the battery connected. Some shops keep 12V going to the system when they disconnect the battery to keep all the info.

I have several good pumps, $40 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com What car is this going on?

The temp is cable controlled. As you adjust the temp, do you feel friction and hear the heater door moving? If not check the cable connection at both ends. Is the fan working on all speeds? When the car is up to temp and with the heater on check both heater line in the engine compartment, are the HOT. If they are, you have good flow to the heater core and back.

You may still have a HG problem or a cracked block/head. Who did the work?

Almost 300 Lbs and 150-300 to ship. I built a wood crate to ship them in. As a side note, both trans failed after shipping. They were not damaged in shipping, but I think the rough ride may be a problem. I bolted them through the box at the front and tied them down at the aft mount.

I've used the Bosh P. without a problem, but have started getting the NGK based on other feedback. I have a set of stock wires I can send with the ignition if you want them.

Cam & Crank seals and replace the oil pump o-ring and reseal the pump. Make sure you tighten the oil pump back cover screws. The new tensioners are not as good as the old. You can switch if you get the mounting bracket and associated parts off an 95 or older 2.2. IMHO

I have a good used one if you need it. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Remove the 10mm nut from the line cross clamp. Then the lines will go on individually. You should be able to thread them all the way on by hand. They can be a bear to start and they can be cross threaded. You can use a vacumm pump to pull most of the old fluid out of the pump before you pull the lines the rest will drain if you let it. Then just fill it up. You should go stop to stop with the new rack to bleed the system and keep the pump full.

Get 3 gallons, drain and clean the pan, filter if you want. Fill it up and pull the top trans hose from the radiator. Put a temp hose on and run it into a gallon milk jug. Start the car and pour new fluid in at the same rate the old nasty stuff is coming out. Shut it down, put the hose back on and fill it to the cold full mark and then take it for the test drive.

PM Sent, come and get it! I'm glad the cats worked out for you, Larry

I've used the bolt up from 93 all the way to 98 on standard Legacys and Outbacks. The mounts have plugs in them so the threads do not rust. Pull the plugs and bolt it up.

I have a good used one, needs a coat of paint. 1" receiver hitch. $40 + shipping from CO 80919 I pulled it off a 97 Outback that I sold. Lmdew@hotmail.com

I'd go for the system flush first!

I have some good used starters, $25 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Hit the local junk yard and pick up a used one $10-20.

Yep, what he said. Lots of 2.2 t-belts, never had a problem with the bracket or lifters. Make sure your using the crank mark on the back tooth and not the arrow on the front of the gear! This is the most common mistake and then you get to do it all over again.