lmdew

Yep, what he said. Lots of 2.2 t-belts, never had a problem with the bracket or lifters. Make sure your using the crank mark on the back tooth and not the arrow on the front of the gear! This is the most common mistake and then you get to do it all over again.

The T-belt, cam and crank seals, water pump and oil pump o-ring will cost about $200 for the parts. It's a day job if all goes well and you can do it. That will take care of the front oil leaks. The oil seperator plate on the rear of the engine does require either the engine or trans to be pulled. The metal plate is $12.00 and some RTV. Labor is the major job here. The transfer clutch soleniod can be accessed from the rear of the trans. You can check it by putting the fuse in the FWD fuse block, right rear of the engine compartment. With the fuse installed, you should have the FWD indicator on you dash. Is you AT Temp light flashing 16 times when you start the car? If so you have a code stored in the TCU. If you take your time and do the research up front all these jobs can be done by a DIY Mechanic. If you don't know which way to turn the nut to get it off or are not willing to read the manual and understand the procedure its best left to the shop.

What did they say about the Alt when you had it checked? I'd check the alt to make sure its good. A bad alt could be causing the problems. How's the temp of the alt when its operating? I will be warm, but should not be so hot it burns you. If you need an alt, let me know. I have some good used ones.

He's pulling the stub (axle) shaft out! Without this retaining the hub in the bearing the hub can come out. I know because this happened to me when I parted a few Legacys.

The axles preload the bearings and keep the hub in the bearing. Without that preload you are asking for problems! You could get some old axles and pull the outer joint and just put it in and bolt it down. That would solve the problem.

If it was an outback I would think they would fit, but on a Legacy, I think they will rub.

Is it the shift lever? If its the lever, there is a solenoid that should release the lock when you step on the brakes. There is a manual release, pry off the black trim ring around the shifter. You will see a 1/4" hole in the shifter body, just push down with a round bar of some sort and it will release the shifter. If its your shift lock soleniod, and you want a new shifter I have one you can have for $15+shipping. If the shift lever is fine, the cable should be checked and fluid changed. It could be either. Is your AT Temp light flashing 16 times when you start the car? If so you have a trouble code stored and need to get it read.

Thanks for the Info, Great USMB network!

Would someone please send the 97 2.2 valve adjustment FSM Info to me. Lmdew@hotmail.com Thanks

Most likely rust build up which may have caused the damage. I've had this problem before on east coast cars. Get some good P-oil and spray it down. Clean the splines on the old axle and work it in and out from the outside. That will push all the junk out of the splines. You may want to remove the inner seal or put a rag in it to keep this junk out. You could do this with the new axle as well, just make sure you get the splines cleaned out before you install it. It takes some time, but it has worked for me.

Visit your local junk yard and look at the old trucks. Lots of great heavy duty coolers < $10 usually. Just make sure you clean them out well!

The gauge pod is easy to pull, but tight. There are 4 connectors at the back. Lower the steering wheel all the way. Pull the 4 screws from the trim. Pull the 4 screws from the gauge pod and pull it out a little. Remove the connectors, 3 along the top, one in the back. Make sure the screws holding the speedo head are clean and tight, these are the connection points from the circuit board. If you need a gauge pod, let me know. Larry

Has anyone put 225/70/15 tires on standard Outback rims? I think they would work, the fit will be tight in the wells. If you have this combination and they are working please let me know. Standard struts, no lift.

Was the o-ring on the pipe? I'm not sure, but if you drop the pan, you may be able to get at the screw. If you can not, then the JB weld would work and you could make sure any extra JB did not get into the pan. Down side to this, you will not be able to remove the pipe if you have to and vibration may cause the JB to fail at sometime. This car has been not so nice to you!

How's the plugs look? Could be a bad temp sensor is causing it to run rich. Lots of sensors affect the gas mileage. If the plugs look good, make sure your brakes are not draging and the wheel bearings are good.

Watch the nasioc.com site the guys sell the wrx wheels and tires all the time 200-400 is the going price.

If you want to try a starter, I have good used one for $25 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Lots of info, just do the search. A few days of work on the older Subarus, once you go to OBDII you have more stuff to take care of.

The fuel sending units are easy to clean. A wiper and a board. After you have burned off a little fuel, pull the carpet up in the cargo area, just aft of the seats. You will see two covers, one on each side. Pull the covers and then the sending units/pump. Clean the contacts and make sure the wiper is in contact with the board. That should do it.

Look in the engine compartment at the firewall in the top center. There is a 1" or so hole. If the wire is not there, the windshield was replaced with a non-heated windshield. I just had mine replaced and didn't know it was a wiper heated windshield. The window guy said most folks never use it. Keep the windshield pigtail and then you have an extra 12V switched source in the engine compartment. Lights.....

You can pull the lines and pressure fitting from a 95 PS and put the right onto the 98. The 98 lines will work, but they are hanging way out from the engine manifold mounts. Nothing to bolt the two clamps to.

I have torque bind and the TCU has code 24 stored. I cleared it and it came right back. Cleaned all the plugs no help. The code is - shorted/open C-Duts S. I'm Looking for the correct pins/wire colors at the engine compartment trans plugs so I can test it with out pulling the transfer housing. Thanks for the Info! I pulled the rear half of the rear drive shaft, but don't like the idea of driving that way. Has anyone driven in that condition for any length of time? What were the results?

Did you check the C-duty S from the trany harnes before you pulled it apart? I have the same problem on a 97 Legacy 2.2, code 24 - shorted/open C-DS. I'm Looking for the correct pins/wire colors at the engine compartment trans plugs so I can test it with out pulling the transfer housing. Thanks for the Info!

Yep, saw that connector and the jumper. Thanks!

Searching the board, I found the procedure to pull the TCU codes from my 97 Legacy 2.2 auto trans (trans oil temp light flashing 16 times) telling me there is a code. The procedure indicates I need to connect the #5 diagonstic connector located under the dash. I've not been able to find it. The standard D-Check green single wire plug is there, but that's not what I need. Using the following: Gear Selector in D Turn on the Ign select 3,2,1 then press the gas half way. The light stays on steady. I also did not get the FWD indicator when I put the fuse in. I'd like to get the codes out of the TCU before I call it toast. Thanks