lmdew

Both Clutch Kits I purchased came with the alignment tool as part of the Kit.

Yep, flushed it all, I pull the upper radiator trany coolant hose, put another hose on the fitting and let it pump out the old stuff as I'm adding new fluid. It works great. This is after a drain and fill of course. 177K, on the car in otherwise good condition $600. I figured at that price I could replace just about anything. I'll do some more checking today, may just be the C DS.

I picked up a 97 2.2 Legacy Auto. The guy thought the trans was shot, but I found the passenger side outer CV joint cage in lots of parts. The boot was still good, but the shaft could turn inside the housing. I replaced the half shaft and its working. There is some torque bind. I flushed the fluid and will give it some time. I'm also going to see if the FWD fuse makes any difference. Has anyone ever seen a joint fail due to torque bind? Thanks

Just sold the same thing for $4500. The 2.2 did not come in the Outback other than the 95. I've sold 4 of these swaps and always put the fact out there so the new owner is not in for a shock the first them they get maintenance done.

I have a complete gauge cluster FS. Reasonable offer accepted. Lmdew@hotmail.com It has about 55K on it.

I know someone on the board put a dual range in a 98 Forster. Who was the man? I have some questions about the speedo input and wiring on that swap. Thanks,

pull the old style tensioner and mounting block off a old 2.2 89-95 and put it in yours. It bolts right up and then you don't have to worry about the new one failing.

They drop right in and you can't get a better engine. CCR has a great product and are very good people to work with. I've done 4 of these swaps and I'm happy with the results. I grab the purge canister from a 90-95 and install it in the engine compartment, but you can also use the stock one. If you need the canister, just hit the local yard. It takes about a day to do the swap. Less time if every nut and bolt is not rusted tight.

Most shops will never notice and it will pass all emissions and OBDII tests. If the tester questions you just go to the next one.

Did you sell it?

How bad is the leak? Overheats are never good on the Subaru engines. I'd look at the overflow tank for signs of air and fluid not being sucked back into the engine. The pump could take out the belt, but if its just a seal leak I doubt it. You could always do the maintenance at her house!

I'll have a 97 Outback with a 2.2 ready in a few weeks if you change your mind :)

I get the canister and mount bracket from a 90-95 and bolt it up. Then there is just one extra line to plug. Works well, no codes after 2 years.

Thanks, Larry

Do a search for this and you'll get lots of info. You ECU should be OK. The parts you have listed are what you'll need. Legacy77 has a good site on the swap.

Thanks, Lmdew@hotmail.com 4S3BG6851V6640875

If you need the speedo head, I have the complete gauge cluster for way less then the Speedo Head from the dealer. Lmdew@hotmail.com 80K on the OD I think.

Look at the disk rotor backing plate. Most likely its up against the disk. It's easy to bend and bend back.

I've got one from a auto to manual trans swap, $30 and its yours. Lmdew@hotmail.com

You may have bent the rear parts as well. When they do the 4 wheel alignment the back affects the front as well. Check the trailing arm and both links.

Make sure all your hoses are on. If you want to try a different maf, send me a picture of you original and the PN and if the couple I have match, I'll send it to you if you pick up the postage both ways. If it fixes the problem, just send me a fair price. Lmdew@hotmail.com for the pic.

Could be, or could be the wires feeding the info to the ECU. Make sure all the grounds are good.

Sometime the VSS on the trany goes, but these have problems with the speedo head. If the CEL is not on and the cruise still works the VSS is sending the signal out. Its most likely the speedo or the connections. Try pulling the gauge cluster and remove the screws holding the speedo in. Clean the contact and replace the screw. Put it back in and see if it works. I've fixed a few this way. If you need a new gauge cluster let me know I have a spare.

Well, it comes down to how much you have in the car now, how long you are going to keep it if you fix it and what you would do to replace it if you did not fix it. With a bad motor, these go for $1000-2000 depending on condition and demand. If you are going to keep the car for 3-5 years then a few thousand for a rebuilt engine would be worth it. Used engines can be had with 30-90 day replacement, but they will just give you another engine. If you are not doing the swap yourself, you are out the labor cost.

A quality engine from www.ccrengines.com out of Denver will give you the reliability you are looking for at a honest price. If its out of your range, drop in a used 95 2.2 Hard to fine a used 2.5 without HG or other issues. If the T-belt has broken the valves are most likely bent. If it has overheated, the HG will most likely go at some point.