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lmdew

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Everything posted by lmdew

  1. Sorry, I sold the one I had the other day. Western Auto in Denver has a couple low mileage newer subarus. Colorado Auto Parts off Santa Fe also had some newer Subarus. Hope this helps.
  2. Sounds like the alternator. How many miles are on the car? Any auto parts store will check the charging system for free. Check 1stsubaruparts.com for the discounted dealer price.
  3. You could swap the injectors to see is the problem stay on cyl#3. If so, its you've ruled out the fuel system. Have you checked compression and done a vacuum gauge check to see if it shows worn valves? Just a couple of thoughts.
  4. Check EBay for you clutch kit. I got an OEM for 120+ I'm happy with it so far. Yes the flywheel and pressure plate will bolt right up. Unless the rear main is leaking, I'd leave it. These are good seals. Do the oil seperator. Order your parts from Subiegal or one of the other dealers with discounts. Get them all and then you'll have them. www.subarugenuineparts.com or www.1stsubaruparts.com Red RTV is good for the oil pan gasket, just don't over do it. I've been real happy with this swap, I've done 4 so far.
  5. Make sure you bleed the system so you do not trap air. If there is any oil (black junk in the overflow) the HG are leaking. Did is suck coolant back into the engine? If not the HG are leaking most likely.
  6. The ABS unit is in the engine compartment, passenger side all the way forward. There is a tag on it with (3 sets of numbers). You will see all the brake lines going to the unit. A picture would help as well. Lmdew@hotmail.com
  7. I have one or two from cars I've parted. $75+shipping. Please send the Part # on the unit so I can make sure its a match. I'm out of town until next week, but I could ship it Fedex Tue. Any good mechanic can swap the units and bleed the brakes.
  8. You need to check them. The bearings should be smooth and seals good. The tensioner should not be leaking fluid. If they are good, no need to replace them.
  9. When you jack the engine and trans to clear the engine mount studs, put a 2x6 under the trans or block the trans up. That way it will stay up for your new engine. Yes, the alt/ac compressor bracket the the lift ring on the back are what I use as well. The alignment pins are sometimes stuck. The best way to deal with that is to use a large punch and drive them fwd or aft so they are in the engine or trans. Just make sure you have them back correctly before you put the new engine in.
  10. P1507 is the Idle control solenoid on top of the throttle body. Google that code to confirm. The assy comes off with a couple of screws. The misfire could be caused by several items, Injectors, plugs, plug wires. Take the easy stuff first. I'd correct the P1507 first and then see what comes up.
  11. Yep, HG and possible bent valves if you have no compression. Is the overflow tank black and looks like an oil slick? Its HG for sure. CCRengines for a rebuilt or a good 95 2.2 are your best bet.
  12. If you are going to keep the car, get a rebuilt engine from CCRengines.com. They build them right and over the long run it will save you money! I purchased a Legacy from a lady who paid a Dealer almost $2800 to do the HG only to have the engine go with a bad rod a few weeks later. The mileage was 152K. You could also put in a good 95 2.2 engine. Its a direct bolt in. In eithe case, your head gasket problem will be Gone.
  13. I had a broken fog light on a 98 Legacy Outback. The lens was cracked. I pulled it apart and carefully pulled off the glass lens. Its held on with sealant. Home Depot $4.00 8x12 lexan (cut it to fit the OD RTV or other Quality Sealant $3.00 Glue it in place and replace the bulb if its bad. My mirror finish was bad, but some chrome paint took care of that. While I had it apart, I also checked to see if a old 4 bulb seal beam light would fit. With a little modification the bulb will fit right in. Get a seal beam plug from the yard, use the old bulb as your adapter plug. Wire the seal beam plug to the old bulb plug and seal it with RTV. That way you can always go back to original parts if you want. Don't want to do this on your own, send me your old housing and bulb and I'll change them over for $25 ea.
  14. I've got a 98 Legacy Outback that has the rear quarter power antenna. Its in the up position. I take it the power comes from the radio and it should go down when the radio is off. Its a stock 6 disk CD/Tape/AM/FM/WB Subaru unit. Any ideas on the power checks. The antenna has a 3 wire connector but not power at the pins with the radio on or off.
  15. When she gets the key out, someone can disconnect the 2 wire black connector going to the interlock solenoid and it will never get locked in again! Its under the dash, right at the steering column.
  16. I'd check all the grounds and make sure they are good. Sounds like a bad ground or short that is taking power when the stop switch is made. I had a 90 Loyale that if you push the kickdown solenoid in - gas to the floor- it would take the voltage meter to 8 V and sometimes blow the fuse. After much TS I found a shorted wire in the dash wire bundle. Many of the grounds are tied together as well as some power circuits.
  17. Was the coolant system purged of air when they did the water pump? If not, this often causes the HG to go or what looks like a HG problem. Lots of folks get 200-300K on these motors.
  18. I have the OEM player that hooks to the stock Deck. It works great and is in good condition. I pulled it and put in a deck my Daughter got for Christmas. I'm In Colorado Springs. How's $40. Larry
  19. Make sure the belt is adjusted right. If its to tight, it will cause extra heat in the bearings.
  20. Cam and crank seals along with the oil pump oring are also a good idea at that mileage. Is the water pump leaking? There is no need to change the pump unless something is wrong with it or you are in there and it has 100K on it. If the pump is still working and you watch for coolant level and your temp gauge you will see the failure before it has any - effect.
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