lmdew

Cam and crank seals along with the oil pump oring are also a good idea at that mileage. Is the water pump leaking? There is no need to change the pump unless something is wrong with it or you are in there and it has 100K on it. If the pump is still working and you watch for coolant level and your temp gauge you will see the failure before it has any - effect.

It gives you a lot more room and then you will not damage it. Pull the upper and lower hose, disconnect the fan plugs and trans fluid lines. remove the two mount bolts and then pull it out.

Speedo is common. Try pulling the dash and pull the 5 screws that hold the speedo in. Clean the circuit contacts and put the screws back in. These are the connections to the speedo as well as the hold-down screws. The Vehical speed sensor could also be causing your speedo and trans problem. Get a new or good used one and replace it. Its on the right side of the trans about 10" back from the engine.

Take the bulb out and put a new fuse in. Does it still blow when you turn the signal on? If so the power is going to ground somewhere. Get it fixed, your wires could start a fire if you keep on replacing the fuse.

I see AllData is now charging for their service. Anyone have an alternate Free source for Recalls and Tech Service info? Thanks

I pulled the VSS to drive it by hand and check the speedo and the VSS broke in two. After installing a new one and tightening the screws that hold the speedo to the dash all is Fine. For owners with this problem, it may be worth a try to remove the dash and then one at a time remove clean and reinstall the 5 speedo screws.

I have a 99 Legacy with a faulty Speedo. I've searched the threads, but have not found the correct voltage outputs from the sensor. This is on a manual trans, single connector with three pins. Thanks, Larry

As long as the temp gauge is reading the same, you did not get air into the system. Most coolants are OK to mix. Fresh coolant and a good flush is always a good thing.

1/4 drive ratchet with 6 point socket, then slip a box wrench over the ratchet handle to extend the lever. It fits in the tight space and gives you the leverage you need.

I think you will have to stay with the stock cap. If the tank is not sealed (cap on tight) it will throw a CEL code.

Could have sent it out 2 day FedEx on Monday, O-well. Glad you got it back on the road.

Is there play in the front diff? Can you move the inner CV Joints and stub shafts around?

The belt if off, I bet! Make sure you are using the correct timing mark on the rear of the crank pulley, not the one on the front. The same thing happened on my brothers Legacy 2.2. Pull it back apart and reset the timing. Good Luck! Using the factory belts with the painted timing marks makes it much easier to time correctly.

Brown/black stuff if most likely oil in the coolant. The other may be headgasket/coolant leak fix material. Make sure he gets the radiator cleaned and tested. I'd recommend changing all the hoses as well and flush the heater core well.

I just did a 99 and went back to the Old Style. You need to pull the mounting bracket from the front of the engine (3 bolts) and get the pulley and tensioner. Pull a good used one from a yard (25.00 or so and your done).

I can send you a good used starter for $25. Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

The 99 has the new style tensionner, which is why I asked the questions. Anyone with a 99 & up manual? Thanks, for the input, Larry

My books stop at 98 and I'm doing a timing belt on a 99 2.2. If you can answer these questions for me that would be Great! Tensionner Reset procedure? Tensionner Bolt Torque? Any other differences on T-belt installation that you know of? I take it the crank torque is still 125 ft lbs. Thanks, Larry

CCR Engines in Denve CO is the best rebuilder in the US. I get to SLC every once in a while, I could check it for you if you are in no rush. You might also look at http://www.nasico.com and Rocky Mountain Club and put a post there. Lots of SLC Subaru guys. Thanks for you Service! Larry (USN Ret.)

Is it still a slide adjustment on the 99? If so, the cable to the valve may be disconnected or the mount c-clip has come off and the cable is moving with the knob. Either way the way to start would be to pull the control and look at the back.

I've done two of these 98 Legacy Outback 2.5 swapped to a 2.2 from a 95. Both were Outbacks had standard transimssions so I had good performance with the 2.2. Yes, the 95 2.2 is a direct plug in. If you swap over the flex plate from your engine, that will bolt up to the transmission fine. Make sure you do NOT pull the torque convertor out of the trans at ALL. Keep it fully engaged back into the trans when you pull the engine. I also pulled the vapor canster from the 95. The 97-98 has it in the tank area, but you can add the one up front and then you only have one vac. line to plug. If you know the engine is good, I'd do the T-belt and water pump up front. If you think it may need other work, just put it in and make sure it works before you put any more money into it. Its not hard to do those items with the engine installed. Good Luck

Most likely you have an air lock. Drain the system and then jack the front as high as you can. Fill the system through the top radiator hose slowly! When its full, put it back on and continue to fill with the bleeder plug removed! Start the car and let it warm up, burp the collant by pinching the top hose often. Do the warm up cool down cycle several times. The system should be air free! Take it off jacks

It would work. The easy way would be to swap the complete rear assy, look at the mounts. Better option would be to find a good trans and then keep the best car and sell the other.

I don't think you have to drop the tank. Connect the new hose to the old and then pull it through. Cut a bolt the ID and slip it in both hoses, wrap some wire tight aroung the hose as a clamp and that should hold the hoses together as you pull them. Go Slow.

The tierod end will have to come off. Just mark the location so you can put it back to the same spot and your toe should remain correct. Sounds like a CV joint is bad, did you inspect them when you repacked them? There should be no play in the joint.