lmdew

Most likely you have an air lock. Drain the system and then jack the front as high as you can. Fill the system through the top radiator hose slowly! When its full, put it back on and continue to fill with the bleeder plug removed! Start the car and let it warm up, burp the collant by pinching the top hose often. Do the warm up cool down cycle several times. The system should be air free! Take it off jacks

It would work. The easy way would be to swap the complete rear assy, look at the mounts. Better option would be to find a good trans and then keep the best car and sell the other.

I don't think you have to drop the tank. Connect the new hose to the old and then pull it through. Cut a bolt the ID and slip it in both hoses, wrap some wire tight aroung the hose as a clamp and that should hold the hoses together as you pull them. Go Slow.

The tierod end will have to come off. Just mark the location so you can put it back to the same spot and your toe should remain correct. Sounds like a CV joint is bad, did you inspect them when you repacked them? There should be no play in the joint.

268K on a 90 Caravan and it was still going strong when I sold it. It depends on the driver!

95 2.2 will drop rignt in as it has the ERG valve and common harness. A little less power, but that's about it. I've done two of these on manual trans Outbacks with good results.

I'd do the rear seal and replace the plastic air/oil seperator plate with a metal one if the plastic one is on your engine. Take a look at the mounts and flush the trans fluid.

Thanks, I also found them at the Partsbin.com for $70 and change.

I've been trying to find some good replacement Rear Struts for a 98 Legacy Outback. Was looking for KYB, but I have not found a site that has them? If you have a source, please let me know. Other alternatives that are good? Thanks, Larry

you should be able to swap the harness over from your old engine without to much trouble. For the wires that go under the manifold, tie a string to the plug when you pull it back and then you can pull the new one back under.

I can ship one for $25 if that's in the budget!

HG for sure! Can't help on the price or a good shop in NJ, but I'd consider an engine from CCR out of Denver CO. The Best!

Straight bolt on. You can pull the bolts at the frame or on the door. Last time I pulled the bolts on the door. When you install, get the bolts started and close the door, shim the bottom as necessary to line things up and then tighten the bolts. Check operation and your all set. What are you doing with the car when you get everything swapped? I saw you post to sell it, any bites?

The Torque convertor is not all the way in. Sorry to say, you will have to drop the trans. This trans has several items the TC and its shaft mate with. It must be engauged with all of them. Pull the trans out and then rotate the TC while pushing aft. You should feel it slide into place. If it does not go in, you may have a damaged seal or spring clip that is holding it up. You may want to try a search on this, several members have delt with this in the past.

drill and easy out the bolt. Replace all the bad pulleys and parts. Not many options.

Is it the folding or non-folding mount? I can send you a complete one for $25 + shipping. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Yes, a 93 with 130K runs good. $450 or you can have the complete car for $700. Auto AWD Trans.

I have a 20K 1.8 Impreza engine available. I paid 450 would like the same. Complete with acc. I'm down in the springs. If you want to sell the car let me know. Larry

They can be a pain as the retainer has very fine threads. Any dirt... in the threads will lock them up tight. Make sure its not cross threaded when you back them out. Do NOT try to turn it with a hammer and drift on the fins, they will break off. You need the special spaner or you may have luck with a large screwdriver or pry bar and turning it fin by fin. You should also replace the oring that seals the retainer. Mark the fin where it matches up with the lock. It will be easy to reset the bearing end play by just returning it to the same spot.

I just picked this one up. It is an S title, so its possible it was changed somewhere along the line. Looks to be original, but you never know. Yes, I was talking auto to auto, but may end up changing it over to a standard trans. Thanks for the info.

The rear is adjusted at the inboard side of the support rods for toe only.

It's got a 4.11 in the rear. Title is listed as a 93. Thanks for the Info!

The son has a 93 Turbo Wagon with an auto trans that has lost reverse. I picked up a 93 Legacy AWD non-turbo. The trans is good. I know there are minor differences between the turbo and non-turbo auto trans. I'll swap the rear diff also. Anyone runing a turbo engine with a non-turbo trans for a significant number of miles? Are you happy with the setup? Thanks

95 is a direct bolt in. Grag the purge canister and bracket. You then only have one extra vac line to plug.

No reason for this to happen unless you are hitting both pedals when you are going for the brake. Does the cruise control kick off like it should when the brakes are applied?