lmdew

A friend had a like problem. I recommended a transmission shop check and they found a bad speed sensor. He went to the yard and pulled it, put it in. Problem fixed.

I have a few good fans. $20 shipped.

Might pull a complete valve body out of a yard and swap it in. If it does not work, return it.

Yes that will do it. There's like an 1/8" between the bottom of the pan and the pickup.

Sounds like you have a short somewhere providing complete circuit for power. Has any work been accomplished lately? Any previous damage to the car? Main relays are up under the drivers side dash. They are way up there under the kick panel. Next time it happens I'd try pulling the relays. Do you have an aftermarket security or remote start system installed?

It's a bunch of work to go from FWD to AWD. Most likely cheaper and much less time to buy an AWD. If you really want to do the upgrade, buy the complete parts car and keep it until you are done and have your's on the road.

My 2000 OBS does pretty much the same thing. It's fine unless I'm in the mountains pushing itl When the temp gauge starts to increase, if I turn off the AC it helps. If needed I turn the heat to high and open the windows. As soon as the load is removed it's fine. I've replaced the radiator with a full metal aluminum one. It helped some but did not correct he problem. I've changed the thermostat, no change (Subaru thermostats). Otherwise fine. I have not pulled the water pump as to me it's just not worth the time right now.

Yep, not much more than scrap price. Sad

From the Outback site: When looking at the pump, at the 11 o'clock position, just below the top left bolt hole, there will be a number cast into the face of the pump. That is your pump "diameter". While this is not Fuji gospel, the trend for oil pumps is as follows: Non-AVLS, Phase 2 SOHC: 7mm AVLS, Phase 2 SOHC: 9mm Non-AVCS, Phase 2 DOHC: 9mm Single AVCS, Phase 2 DOHC: 10mm Dual AVCS, Phase 2 DOHC: 11mm Typically, the more systems that require oil (AVLS, AVCS, Turbo), the "larger" the pump equipped. If you're looking to "upgrade", I would not go larger than a 9mm on a non-AVLS engine. Too much oil IS a bad thing.

How many miles on the engine? Most likely the bearing clearances are out of limits. GD I'm sure can answer your Oil Pump question. My understanding is it's the thickness of the gear in the oil pump. The thicker it is the more volume the pump is moving. I have a few pumps, but I've never identified them.

1/2" drive six point socket. 22 mm or I think 7/8" also fits. You can put the breaker bar on the drivers side frame rail just inftont of the battery and hit the starter. A VERY short crank will break the bolt loose. It's at 225 ftlbs I believe.

About 99% of the parts will bolt right in either way. You will not believe how nice it is to work on a Colorado car. I can go to the yard and pull just about anything with very little problems.

Since you just drained the coolant, you may still have an air pocket at the top of the engine.

I'd have to look in the book for sure, but it's the single green connector under the dash, inboard drivers side. There is also a single black connector. The old OBDI use to have you plug in the black connector to get the codes and both to put it into diagonstic mode. It's in the service manual for sure. Temp sensor is on the back of the crossover pipe on top of the engine on the passenger side.

Code readers are under $20 for a good one. Most Autoparts stores will read the codes for free, but most will not clear the codes. Having your own is great. I've been using this one for years - Autel MS300 Universal OBD2 Scanner Car Code Reader, Turn Off Check Engine Light, Read & Erase Fault Codes, Check Emission Monitor Status CAN Vehicles Diagnostic Scan Tool $19.99 on amazon.

Temp sensor. I'd put it in the diagnostic mode with the connectors under the dash and see if the fans cycle. The fan/s also come on with the AC.

Read the CEL Codes! No sense in guessing.

Stock one:

This is a fancy aftermarket one. Yours will be black. The Fire Wall to the transmission bracket.

Yes, should drop to the frame. Something is holding it up! Did you loosen the pitch stop bolt and the other engine mount stud and rock the engine?

When you say won't seat, how far from the frame is it? Once the stud of the mount is in the frame slot the weight of the engine should bring the base of the mount to the frame. As said, loosen the pitch stop bolt at the engine bracket. Loosen the opposite mount nut and you should be able to rock the stud into the frame. It's possible the CV joint seperated when you jacked the engine. Give them a good look and shake to check for movement of the axle shaft.

Yes blow throught it one way and it seals. The opposite way it's free flowing.

Park on the Street, if you can.

Front O2 sensor does the fuel trim. Rear checks how well the system is working and has no impact on the trim. That's my understanding anyway. If the engine was running way rich, it can cause CAT problems.

No problems. I find them cheap on the craigslist. $100 for a set of 4 rims and tires. I have plenty of chrome acorn lug nuts if you need a set.