lmdew

A little stored energy in the driveline. I put my parking brake on when I park my 2000 Impreza OBS.

There are 2 small coolant lines that go to the throttle body. Check those. Your low idle could be due to a failed coolant temp sensor. On top of the block in the crossover manifold for the coolant. Passenger side under the intake on the back side.

I'd first remove the intake tube and clean the throttle plate and intake. There is a adjustmet screw on the drivers side of the linkage. Make sure the cable has some free play. I'd recheck then.

We bought an 06 Forester from a Subaru Mechanic which had a rattle. He said it was internal to the muffler and a common fault. I got a muffler out of the yard and it's been fine for the last 5 years. www.car-part.com is a good source. Get one from a location out of the rust belt!

It's a single connector which the relay plugs into.

Good Transmission shop can pull the codes and give you some more info.

Friend had a 98 Legacy Outback sedan. She had a shop do a bunch of front end work, bearings, rotors... Turned out to be the rear disk brakes. I had them turned and installed new pads. I made sure the pins were free and greased. Vibration went away!

I have several stock and aftermarket units. Your's for the shipping.

Here you go. A new hood and you should be good. https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/arvada-1995-subaru-legacy/7469232186.html

I swapped over to rear disk brakes, drums went to the recycler on my Impreza.

Should take them to the Laurelwood Public House for a Workhorse.

Not worth shipping. I found them on the Craigslist. Yes they did want proof of owernership. I had titles from cars I had parted years ago.

Sold 3 CATs yesterday to a recycler for $125 each. They even picked them up. They wanted the Part Number off the CAT. There is a # under the heatsheild on a metal tab that comes off the seam. You have to cut the heatsheild back a bit and then wire brush or sand the tab to see the #.

Sometimes the socket connectors do not have the contact force needed for a good conection. Bend them out a bit to increase the force.

I'm sure I could find nice rust free on in CO and send it your way.

Who put the pump in the car? Did they bleed the air out of the system after the pump change? I'd get it up on jack stands or a lift. Drop the plastic lower engine cover if it's there. Start the car and turn the steering lock to lock while checking for leaks. Watch the fluid level.

Muffler shop, to cut and weld in a section. If you want to keep the joint, see my post above.

I may have the Mid and muffler for you. Shipped from 80919. I could cut off the flanges and as much pipe as you want to reduce shipping. Have a shop expand the pipes slip them on and bolt and clamp them up.

I'd at least pull the timing belt covers off. I picked up a 2001 that sounded like a rod knock. It turned out to be the timing belt cogged Idler bearings were gone! I'm still driving that $400 car.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_10/exhaust_system/exhaust/illustration_1/

Highlighted is the donut flex joint. Further aft are flat gaskets.

Bad idea. Way to much work. www.car-part.com

Yep thin gasket. I've been able to grind them flat. I have some good mid-pipes and mufflers. 80919 www.car-part.com is also a good source. Pick a rust free location.

Yes there is a exhaust donut gasket. GD posted a repair for the pipe flanges a few weeks ago. Not sure what the brand was. You can search the USMB. Here's a quick google search.

Boots can be changed. It's tight, but you can do it. Sometimes it helps to drop the Y-pipe a bit. I pin punch the tie rod nut and then use a pice of wire to record the lenght the nut is off the inner tie rod. It allows you to put it back to almost aligned. Unscrew the inner tierod, remove the nut and replace the boot. Put it all back together and get an alignment.