lmdew

Do a search here, this was talked about a few months ago. Easy Job, no reason to go under the car. 1 bolt on top, 14mm. 1 nut on the bottom 17mm and the two wires. Make sure you disconnect the battery before you start. If you want a cheap used starter, I have a couple good ones $5 +shipping.

If you do the 2.5 to 2.2 engine swap in an Outback or other newer Subaru, your power steering lines will not be supported by the normal brackets. You either have to make a support or switch the lines. If you pull the lines from a 2.2, the fitting and the fitting off the pump, you can do the swap in about 45 minutes. Thats all you need and everything will bolt up.

Yes, the front or back pair fire at the same time. If you want to try a new coil let me know. I have one. Larry

Drain, then filter, then flush if the filter is old. If its newer, I'd drain, flush filter.

Are you going to just do the HG or a complete engine? If you are doing the engine, get it from CCR in Denver and drop it in yourself! Call CCR and they will be able to recommend a good shop if you do not want to tackle the job. I know Strickly uses CCR motors and I have heard they are good, but have no first hand knowledge. If you change your mind and want to sell or trade the car for one that is working, let me know. I have a good 2.5 that needs a new car to go into. Larry, Lmdew@hotmail.com

You might move this to the new generation subaru list. But, it sounds like a bad connection some where. Check the ground connections, battery and alt connections as a start. They should be clean and tight. Most auto parts stores will check you charging system for free! It's never a good idea to charge a dead battery from the cars system. It puts an extreem load on the alt.

Try pushing the switch in and then moving it up or down. The switch button lever comes off the switch on these often. If you need a new switch assy. or motor I have both.

It's the mark on the back of the gear tab not the arrow on the front of the gear. Lot's of folks mix these up.

If the oil in the coolant tank was black and dirty, it was not new oil added by mistake. HG are a funny thing. Sometimes total failure (over heats every time) and some times as long as the car is not driven hard (high speed for long periods) they show no signs of leaks. For the Trans, is the AT light on the dash blinking 16 times when the car is started? If so there is a code stored. Ball park figure is these are both straight fixes, I'd say you are looking at $3000+ in repairs.

I have a good used one, $50 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Yep, HG were gone. This is the second 2.5 > 2.2 swap I've done. The power loss is very little and you get an engine that will go 300K+ that will not trash itself if the Tbelt goes.

Jack the front as high as possible. Drain the coolant and then slowly refill the system with the bleed open. I pull the top radiator hose and fill the engine, pouring fluid into that hose. I also put a radiator flush fitting in the heater hose and leave it open until fluid comes out. When you've fillled the engine completely, put the radiator hose back on. Continue to fill the system, pouring fluid in the small bleeder hose until the fluid comes up to the top of the radiator fill cap. Start the engine and pinch the top radiator hose open and close, it will help move any air along. When fluid starts coming out the radiator cap fitting, put the cap back on and let the engine come up to temp. Make sure the heat in on full hot for the complete process. Let it cool, and check to make sure the radiator is full.

Just finished putting a 95 Impreza 2.2 into a 98 Outback. Both were autos. All worked fine, but the flex plates are different size, by about 1/2" dia. (don't ask me how I fournd this out). You will need to keep flex plate from your Outback and bolt it up to the impreza engine. The Air conditioning mount bracket has smaller mount bolts as well. Keep all the brackets from your Outback.

Just finished putting a 95 Impreza 2.2 into a 98 Outback. Both were autos. All worked fine, but the flex plates are different size, by about 1/2" dia. (don't ask me how I fournd this out). You will need to keep flex plate from your Outback and bolt it up to the impreza engine. The Air conditioning mount bracket has smaller mount bolts as well. Keep all the brackets from your Outback. This 98 will be up for sale, as soon as I finish going through it. 98 161K on the car, 121K on the engine. The 2.2's go for ever and no headgasket problems. $4100.

I have a stock dual cat from a car I parted out. No problems from the car it came out of. The car was a 96 2.2 Legacy 120K. $100+shipping. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Do you have 3 or 4 wires coming out of the O2 sensors? If its a three wire O2 sensor, try grounging the body of the O2 sensor to the body. A hose clamp to hold the bare wire on the sensor works. Take the other end to the ground just behind the front strut. If you can find someone to read out the sensors, you can see the response from each sensor. New Sensors may fix the problem also. Search the board for O2 sensors and you will find may posts.

Before you pull the old pump, pull the low pressure return line and route it to a bucket. Turn the wheel left or right. In one direction, you will get fluid out of the hose. Once you know which way to turn it to expel the old fluid, just go to the extremes, hooking and unhooking the return line. Make sure you keep adding fluid to the pump so you are not putting air in the system.

I purchased these two Subarus, would like the history if someone can run them for me. Thanks in advance! 92 Legacy: 4S3BC6322N9613899 (salvage title) 98 Legacy: 4S3BG6856W7605504 Lmdew@hotmail.com

I haven't had any luck with folks checking for me lately, sad to say. I can't get the unlimited Carfax until next year.

Check the wires in the door. They often short or break.

search the board, lots of info on the 2.5 headgaskets

Look straight down behind the intake manifold, just to the left of the throttle cables. Its straight down, a 12mm bolt, single wire going off about an 1.25" dia. black sensor. The connector is harder to unplug than it is to remove the sensor. Later,

Front, pop the rubber cap and remove the nut. Push down on the wiper blade while lifting up on the mounts other end. For the rear, pull the plastic cap up. There are two small plastic tabs that hold it over the mount end. Remove the 10mm nut. If its rusted, get some good rust buster and let it soak for a few days. Remove the nut and if the wiper is stuck, use a battery terminal puller to get it off. While your painting, look at the rear license plate light mount. They rust like crazy

The valve is on the drivers side rear manifold. The 95 2.2 manifold has the valve for sure, others may also. You will also have a spare vac. line or two on the 2.2 that would go to the purge canister, which is located on the RH frame rail just aft of the radiator. You can install one from a 2.2 Legacy. If you need the canister and bracket, let me know. I have one from a 96. Hope this helps, Larry

I'd get it into a good Subaru Shop. If the AT light is still blinking, there should be a code. Changing the fluid can't hurt, but I'd skip the additive.