lmdew

Not tough, but time consuming. You have to deal with the ECU looking for the neutral switch, the cruise will need the clutch input, as well as the ignition circuit..... It can be done, but its not a plug and play. It depends a lot on if you want all of the safety inter locks to work or not. You will need the: Trans brake pedal box shifter rear trans cross member center counsel standard cover clutch master cyclinder and slave I'm sure there is more, If you have a car you can pull it from get everything thats conneted and then some and you will be OK

I have one off a 99 with 50K. They all have dual sensors as far as I know. I parted this car. Let me know if you want it and make a reasonable offer.

It will drop right in.

If you need a starter and are not in a rush, I have both used (auto trans and Manual trans starters. $40 shipped Fedex 2Day. Larry

Easy job 30 minutes and you should have it off! 1) Disconnect the negative battery cable 2) Disconnect the positive cable from the starter 12mm nut I think 3) Pull the other starter wire from the starter terminal 4) Remove the bottom starter nut 15 or 17 mm. A 6" extension and socket work well. 5) Remove the top starter mount nut and bolt 6) Remove the Starter. Take it to the local auto parts or starter rebuild shop and have them test it. Less time to install it!

I had a 90 Loyale that blew the fuse to the Ignition and caused the warning lights to go out. I replaced the IAC, the purge and ERG control valves. It stopped blowing the fuse, but when the Kickdown relay was activated the volt gauge still dropped to 8V. It turned out to be a shorted dash wires. Several of them were melted and fused. Not Good. Look at the back of the fuse block and check the wires for the fuse that blew. Any signs of overheating should be followed. Many of the control items use the same common ground and or share the power source. It was a long long fix.

should work, i think.

You should be able to find these at your local yard. $30 or so I would guess. If you can't find them, let me know. Lots of Subarus in CO.

It may be the bolts that hold the muffler pipe to the cat. There are two of these with the springs. Take a look. The yards can't sell cats, but they can sell mufflers. A wide range of years will work as there was little change. Say 90-96. I do have a cat back pipe from a 93 Legacy Wagon that is in great shape (CO Car). Let me know if you need it. Larry

I have not found any limits for the shaft to diff cage play. I have a 92 Legacy with the drivers side having a 1/16" of play between the cage and shaft. I've check lots of them in the yard to get an Idea of wear limits. I've seen very high mile Subaru's with almost no play and some with 1/2 the mileage <100K with large amounts of play. The Diff bearings wear is diferent from the wear of the cage to shaft. If the cage has limited play (check this with the shafts removed) then the cage support bearings are not the cause of the shaft play. I don't know if this helps, but I've not found limits for shaft play.

The engine harness should be the same, as long as the connectors are the same. I swapped out a 92-93 and had to change out the engine harness. The ECU and Harness also ties into the Dash Harness, which is different between the auto and manual. Both are a paint tu pull. The main harness from the ecu to engine also has all of the lights.... for the front of the car. The fender has to be pulled to get it out of the car. What problems are you having with the current harness? Later, Larry

You can do a search for this, several post have come up, but not its not hard and no alignment will be needed if you: 1) break the torque on the axle nut 2) remove the sway bar link from the side your pulling 3) pull the ball joint pinch bolt out of the bottom of the hub 4) drive out the spring pin from the inner hub 5) pry the lower A-arm down to pull out the ball joint out of the hub 6) pull the hub and axel out to pull the shaft Replace in the reverse order. Recommended to use a new spring pin and make sure the hole lines up. If its 180 out, you may get the pin in, but you will never get it out again.

I checked the yard yesterday. The 90 takes the long black dipstick. The tube sticking out of the trany is about 3" long for this longer black dipstick. The yellow one, the tube only sticks up about 1" or so. This should fix my leaK :>) Thanks for the feedback

Pull only one side at a time. Replace the seal and O-ring, lube the outside with light motor oil and carefully spin it in by HAND. The threads are very fine and can be cross threaded, Make sure the threads and bores are clean and free of any damage. Spin the assy in as you go so it does not cock in the trany. As pointed out mark a alignment point on the trany and housing.

I'd replace the snap rings with new if you can. A slide hammer works good for pulling the stub shafts out. Make a hook you can insert into the spring pin hole for the halfshafts and then just pull them out.

Most of them just make a mess of your engine and cooling system. The pressures are too high. I'd stay away from them, unless your stranded on the highway and need to get home.

They bolt to the intake manifold, so they are not truly inline. You would have to machine a adapter plate and hose fitting. You can see Pictures at. http://www.1stsubaruparts.com Loyale or Legacy, they have two different style IAC

I have a 92 FWD Auto Trans Legacy that was missing a differential dipstick. I picked up a yellow one from the yard and filled it to the full mark. It is leaking from the shaft seal a little. Today, I saw a black dipstick which was about 2.5" longer (about 11"). With it installed, the diff is 2.5" over filled. Will someone with a FWD 90-94 I think check, and let me know which is correct. Thanks Larry Yellow Plastic top Dipstick - straight shaft about 3/16" dia 7-8" long Black Top DipStick - bent shaft with mid support 1/8" dia about 10-11" long Thanks for the correct Identification!

Ditto above. I you have problems I'm in the Springs. Are you looking for new or used covers and seals? A1 is on the south side of COS. They are a great you pull yard and you can't beat the prices.

Replace them if you can find good ones. I do have a good drivers door, but its red. Hey for $50 what do you want. You can have it painted and then install it. Its from a 96 Legacy wagon, you'd have to check the interchange to see if it would bolt right up. You pay shipping. Lmdew@hotmail.com By the time you pay the body shop to fix the dents or cut out the rust and weld it up, the replacement and paint will be less.

I think that is the rim width.

Yes, they will. They have the same 5 X 100 bolt pattern.

Are you sure you have a good vacuum source? Let me know if you need a Dis. I can pull them from the yard for $20. Colorado Springs. You might try hooking a vacuum pump to the dis and advancing it when its running. They are about $30 in the auto parts stores. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Get a 7/8" tubing wrench. It will not round off the hex and slips over the wires. Works great!

Take some jumpers right from the battery. That will power the pump and if it still doesn't work, you know its the power. If you want a used subaru pump, there is a 98 in the yard. I can pull it for you. $20 shipped.