lmdew

I sent you a reply to the part out, I've got a good one. Lmdew@hotmail.com

If it turns out you need a new ABS unit, let me know I have the computer and ABS unit from a 96. It should be the same. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Anyone have Carfax or another servcie, would you please see if the title is clear. VIN: 4S3BG6852W7616662

I made her an offer on the car, but she was selling to someone who has a little more to spend. Larry

I thought the pin for the AT identifier had to be pulled. I'll try doing it with a ground instead. Thanks for the info, Larry

I have completed the auto to Manual Trans conversion on a 90 Loyale. Things were operating fine, but the wires to the Kickdown relay overheated and melted. I think this was a previous owners problem, not related to the trans swap. Anyway, I repaired all of the melted wires and put things back together without the Kickdown relay. I pulled ECU pins: 1 - Kickdown Control 16 - Kickdown Monitor I thought this would prevent the CEL light from coming on. The computer still is looking for the kickdown relay and the CEL comes on with code 45 right away. SO how can I make the computer see it is a Manual not an auto trans? Anyone have the Factory Wiring diagrams on the 90 Loyale? Thanks for the Help! If anyone is up for the challenge, its in good shape otherwise 184K FWD Gray&Gray, no rust. $800 and its yours!

Anyone have a clue as to where the wires run to that go to the Kickdown relay that is up under the dash, above the glove box? The fuse blew on my 90 Loyale and I put it in D-Check to see what was up. By a process of eliminations, I was able to isolate it to the Kickdown relay (when it disconnected the fuse will not blow). I pulled apart the wires as far as I could (the bundle goes into a plastic routing tube and I found severa spots where the black/white wires has melted the insulation of the blue and blue/green wires (4 total) that go the the relay. Note, this is a Auto to Manual trans conversion, but I don't think that is the problem. I think I will have to pull the dash to confirm the short's location and to ensure there are no more damaged wires. Any idea on what year/model Subaru's may be interchangable? Any thoughts on why this happened? Thanks Larry

Put the breaker bar over on the battery side frame and hit the starter a couple of times. That will break it loose! Works great and you can do it with one hand.

Ebay # 4531117391I talked to this fellow yesterday. It goes to show, you need to find a good Subaru Mechanic and read your owners manual. He purchased the car about a month ago. The timing belt went and the shop he took it to said they could replace the T-belt and tensioner. Once he had that done, as one would expect, they found bent valves. The shop should have expected the bent valves, as it’s an interference engine. This shop wanted $3000.00 for the engine work. The fellow opted not to put any more money in the car. The shop then let this poor fellow tow the Subaru off on his car Dolly (now the trans is most likely bad). Sad to here someone being taken like this.

If you want an instrument cluster, I have one with 120K on it. All gauges work. $35+shipping ($15) Larry

If you need a rack, I have one $20+shipping from CO.

I have a used master cyclinder and booster if you need them. $30 if you pick it up from Colorado Springs. I could also take a quick look at your car and confirm the problem. Its not a bad price for the repair though. Larry

I second that. Any good Mechanic can check the coolant for exhaust gases. They even sell kits at auto parts stores so you can do this yourself.

You know what the say, money talks. It never hurts to ask or offer!

Yes, please sell the car to me! I have a 99 2.5 engine that needs a home :>) Lmdew@hotmail.com

Look at the shaft for the wiper. Is it moving, if so then the shaft or wiper arm is stripped. The linkage between the two sides could have come apart, but I doubt that. You need to pull both wiper arms and the plastic cover to get at the linkage.

Send them to the board, they should be able to link them. Later, Larry

I have used axles, $10 each.

Nothing needed for the axle. Just pull it out. The inner joint, you need a pin punch to drive out the pin. The balljoint does not need to come out completely. Just pull the bottom strut bolt, drop the torsion bar link and you can pry down the A-arm. That way you do not have to get a new alingnment. Later, Larry

I have the sensors and fuel pump assy, if you need them. Lmdew@hotmail.com Send me an offer!

I have the outlets from a 99 Forster, make me an offer and they are yours. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Are the other interior lights working? Make sure they are not turned all the way down. It could be one of the plugs on the back have come off, if the other interior lights are working (AC Panel, Radio). Easy to check, pull the trim, lower the steering wheel all the way and remove the 4 screws. Slowly pull it forward until you can pull the connetors. Its highly unlikely that all the bulbs went at once.

Get a new half shaft. By the time you pay for the boots and labor, you can put in a new half shaft. I would not use split boots, they are junk IMHO. http://www.1stsubaruparts.com has good prices and service. If you want used halfshafts, I have them, $10+shipping. Later, Larry

I have front hubs and 1/2 shafts from 96 Legacy that should work for you. Both sides or one. If you want to sell the car, let me know. Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com 1/2 shafts $10+shipping Front Hubs 25+shipping.

Sounds like the motor is getting power. The motor and gear box are a unit, all gearing is internal. You could check for power at the plug or jump the motor to a battery.