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Everything posted by lmdew
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94 loyale - idle up and down regularly???
lmdew replied to vanagonfan's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Air control valve on the front of the SPFI. Pull the hose off and plug both ends with your thumbs. I bet it will idle rock solid. Later, Larry -
I have a 92 Legacy Sedan FWD Auto and the drivers side has excessive play in the stub shaft. I checked the bearing retainer for the differential housing and it was tight. The play is between the stub shaft an the differential housing. Anyone have the limits in the clearance between the parts? Does it require a differential rebuild to fix this? Thanks Larry
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That's it. The full part number on the blue tag is: 26731AA200 Additional numbers on the tag Nippon 110 000 30460, in th silver box on the tag is 467-0424 4 lines on top 3 cyclinders between the upper and lower blocks 2 lines coming out the bottom engine side block. If you send me and email I can send a picture or two. Later, Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com
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Help, Manual Trans Conversion CEL???
lmdew replied to lmdew's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I thought the pin for the AT identifier had to be pulled. I'll try doing it with a ground instead. Thanks for the info, Larry -
I have completed the auto to Manual Trans conversion on a 90 Loyale. Things were operating fine, but the wires to the Kickdown relay overheated and melted. I think this was a previous owners problem, not related to the trans swap. Anyway, I repaired all of the melted wires and put things back together without the Kickdown relay. I pulled ECU pins: 1 - Kickdown Control 16 - Kickdown Monitor I thought this would prevent the CEL light from coming on. The computer still is looking for the kickdown relay and the CEL comes on with code 45 right away. SO how can I make the computer see it is a Manual not an auto trans? Anyone have the Factory Wiring diagrams on the 90 Loyale? Thanks for the Help! If anyone is up for the challenge, its in good shape otherwise 184K FWD Gray&Gray, no rust. $800 and its yours!
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Anyone have a clue as to where the wires run to that go to the Kickdown relay that is up under the dash, above the glove box? The fuse blew on my 90 Loyale and I put it in D-Check to see what was up. By a process of eliminations, I was able to isolate it to the Kickdown relay (when it disconnected the fuse will not blow). I pulled apart the wires as far as I could (the bundle goes into a plastic routing tube and I found severa spots where the black/white wires has melted the insulation of the blue and blue/green wires (4 total) that go the the relay. Note, this is a Auto to Manual trans conversion, but I don't think that is the problem. I think I will have to pull the dash to confirm the short's location and to ensure there are no more damaged wires. Any idea on what year/model Subaru's may be interchangable? Any thoughts on why this happened? Thanks Larry
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Ebay # 4531117391I talked to this fellow yesterday. It goes to show, you need to find a good Subaru Mechanic and read your owners manual. He purchased the car about a month ago. The timing belt went and the shop he took it to said they could replace the T-belt and tensioner. Once he had that done, as one would expect, they found bent valves. The shop should have expected the bent valves, as it’s an interference engine. This shop wanted $3000.00 for the engine work. The fellow opted not to put any more money in the car. The shop then let this poor fellow tow the Subaru off on his car Dolly (now the trans is most likely bad). Sad to here someone being taken like this.
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I have a used master cyclinder and booster if you need them. $30 if you pick it up from Colorado Springs. I could also take a quick look at your car and confirm the problem. Its not a bad price for the repair though. Larry
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'93 Loyale mystery overheating
lmdew replied to walkaboutamerica's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I second that. Any good Mechanic can check the coolant for exhaust gases. They even sell kits at auto parts stores so you can do this yourself.