lmdew

Yep, the water pump is leaking (there is a weap hole that you can not see with the pump installed. It results in the leak you described. Do the hoses and belts, T-belt, water pump, cam & crank seal, tighten the oil pump cover screws, and carefully check the pulley bearings and tensionner for wear and indications of failure. Make sure you fully bleed the coolant system when you go back together to get all of the air out. www.1stsubaruparts.com is a good source of parts.

CCR builds great engines!

I can ship a used one for $25+shipping about $20 Fedex. Lmdew@hotmail.com

CCR is Great. I have a 99 2.5 with 12K. I need 2000.00 for it. It will ship for about $350 to a business address. Lmdew@hotmail.com Just another option for you.

Check with your local Autozone they pull the codes for free!

Cold oil will give you high pressure. Not a problem. You may have a sensor that is a little out. What's the reading when things warm up?

Pull it. It is possible to get the engine out with the P-stopper in, but when you go to put the new engine mounts in the support, they will not line up as the P-stopper is holding the engine FWD. Anything is possible with a big enough forklift/hammer :>)

Cut your losses and sell it to me for $2000. I'll put my spare 2.5 motor in it and away I'll go I'm still looking for a 97-99 Outback or Forster (5sp) in good condition other than the engine. Good Luck.

Did you check the knock coil resistance? It might be a bad coil. The engine does not need to ping for the ecu to see the sensor. Wiring?

I looked at a 88 GL wagon today in Colorado Springs. Engine full of oil film, but said to be running 5sp with Hi/Lo 4WD 240K miles Clear coat missing from all topside surfaces Brakes needed Tires driveable Interior OK, door panel shot Rear fenders have LARGE rust bubbles They are asking 500 OBO. You can find the listing in the Thrifty Nickle online. I was thinking $100 at best. I'm sure its headded for the bone yard.

Have you hooked up a vaccum gauge? Most gauges come with a sheet that tells you how to digest the readings.

Try your local auto yard. If you do find one, check the MC stepping on the brakes. When you disconnect the MC resist the temptation to apply a full stroke to the MC. The brakes when working properly only use a small portion of the stroke and you don't want to mess the seals by pushing them into areas they don't normally go. Same goes for bleeding the system when you install a used MC. Check 1stsubaruparts.com for seals. If you are stuck, I can pull one for 40+shipping from 80916. Later

No computer changes required. I did the same in my 98 Outback, used 96 2.2 motor 50K miles $125 14 hours of work (one 12 pack of Fat Tire) $13 Fluids $25 Total $163 and it runs great. CCR is Great, they were my next option, if I hadn't found this great used engine. Nice Job!

Just follow the + wire from the battery back to the Starter. Two bolts hold it on. Make sure you disconnect the negative battery cable first!

Any other signs of a HG failure, oil in the overflow tank. If that was showing, I'd say a Subaru Dealer should have caught it, but other may not. Some HG failures are only seen when pushing the car, heavy loads-engine operating for some time. They may not have seen it. If you paid with a credit card stop the payment and work out a deal. BBW still applies. Did you get a dealer title, or was the previous owner on the title, if so try to contact them and see if they knew the HG was gone! Good Luck

I can pull one for $25 plus shipping from Colorado 80916. Yellow or black connectors? If you have a part# or part# your looking for, it would help. Lmdew@hotmail.com

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send an email address: Lmdew@hotmail.com

You can pull one cover and see if the timing marks are still very clear (white paint) on the belt. These wear over time and will fade. Not 100%, but better than not knowing.

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In Colorado Springs, Free 90 Loyale Front Passenger Seat, gray in good condition. I also have the drivers side, but it has a couple of wear holes in it. The foam is good. Come and get it or pay the shipping. Lmdew@hotmail.com

I have a good 99 2.5 with 12K on it ($2000). I was going to put it in a 97, but then with some assistance from CCR in Denver figured the 97 engine was not making metal. I've been looking for a 97-99 Outback or Forster to put it in. CCR in Denver sells very good remanfactured engines, contact them at www.ccrengines.com Buy a used engine, if you go with a quality yard you should be OK, but you never know for sure what you are getting and if you are not doing the work yourself, you will be out the costs of the labor for 2 engine changes. Is it a manual or auto trans? If its an auto, I wouldn't put to much money into it, as the trans may need a rebuild down the road. If you are going to sell the car, let me know, I'm still looking: Lmdew@hotmail.com Later, Larry

Fixed :>) I never did find the test connector, but the drivers side motor was disconnected by the previous owner. The door lock connector had broken wires (2 of the 3) as the wires were up against the window support rail. I believe this is why the motor was disconnected. It was most likely doing many strange things. I've got a 90 Loyale Wagon, 2WD and the auto seatbelts are not working. The fuses are good. I have not been able to find the connector to put the computer in the readout mode. Anyone know where it is? I've had both sides of the dash opened and searched all over, no luck. Thanks

How long has it been split? How much grease is left in the joint? The CV are tough, but dirt and a lack of lube can trash them. If it still has grease, and the inside is clean, a replacment boot should be fine. You need to make sure the CV is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN, before you put in the new grease and boot on.

The AT3 is very heavy and if you don't have a trans lift it will be a bear to get back in. You might check and see what a shop would charge to do both. With the car up on a rack and the proper jacks it should be a quicker job.