lmdew

You can pull one cover and see if the timing marks are still very clear (white paint) on the belt. These wear over time and will fade. Not 100%, but better than not knowing.

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In Colorado Springs, Free 90 Loyale Front Passenger Seat, gray in good condition. I also have the drivers side, but it has a couple of wear holes in it. The foam is good. Come and get it or pay the shipping. Lmdew@hotmail.com

I have a good 99 2.5 with 12K on it ($2000). I was going to put it in a 97, but then with some assistance from CCR in Denver figured the 97 engine was not making metal. I've been looking for a 97-99 Outback or Forster to put it in. CCR in Denver sells very good remanfactured engines, contact them at www.ccrengines.com Buy a used engine, if you go with a quality yard you should be OK, but you never know for sure what you are getting and if you are not doing the work yourself, you will be out the costs of the labor for 2 engine changes. Is it a manual or auto trans? If its an auto, I wouldn't put to much money into it, as the trans may need a rebuild down the road. If you are going to sell the car, let me know, I'm still looking: Lmdew@hotmail.com Later, Larry

Fixed :>) I never did find the test connector, but the drivers side motor was disconnected by the previous owner. The door lock connector had broken wires (2 of the 3) as the wires were up against the window support rail. I believe this is why the motor was disconnected. It was most likely doing many strange things. I've got a 90 Loyale Wagon, 2WD and the auto seatbelts are not working. The fuses are good. I have not been able to find the connector to put the computer in the readout mode. Anyone know where it is? I've had both sides of the dash opened and searched all over, no luck. Thanks

How long has it been split? How much grease is left in the joint? The CV are tough, but dirt and a lack of lube can trash them. If it still has grease, and the inside is clean, a replacment boot should be fine. You need to make sure the CV is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN, before you put in the new grease and boot on.

The AT3 is very heavy and if you don't have a trans lift it will be a bear to get back in. You might check and see what a shop would charge to do both. With the car up on a rack and the proper jacks it should be a quicker job.

Very Nice link to the trany swap. It will help many folks. Thanks for all of your time and effort. Now I need to compare it to my 90 Loyale wiring.

I put a 2.2 into a 98 Outback, had a bad 2.5. Works great. If you need a good 2.5 I have one with 12K from a 99. $2000+shipping

The fork is lubed with grease at the back piviot and the contact points with the T/O Bearing. Using spray may wash away what grease is there. I'd let it be, it may go away with time if its surface rust.

Yep, got that, now I have to get it into the car harness. I thought the input was at the shift control harness, but jumping the wires only brings on the R light on the dash. Thanks for the reply.

The manual shows the reverse lights getting power from the Auto Trans Interlock switch. I've jumped all of the wires on the harness where the shifter use to be (did an auto to manual swap) and still no reverse lights. The dash indicators work fine. Anyone with an auto that can point me to the correct contacts? Thanks for the info.

Junk yard replacements will be your best bet. Might also search the list for parting out posts. (90-94) should work, I believe!

There's two relay-valves right there. One goes to the purge canister the other to the ERG valve. On mine Loyale, the bottom (a little lower) was the ERG relay-valve. one 10mm bolt holds it on. Disconnect the vac hoses and one elect. connector and your done. Later, Larry

I can pull a used pump rust free from CO. The yard gets $25 and about $15 to ship Fedex. Let me know Lmdew@hotmail.com

Sitll Looking

Where is the Auto Seat belt test connector? I have a drivers side that is not moving and a fast flashing seat belt light. I should have a code but I could not find the connector under the dash. Second, I did the auto to MT swap and would like to remove the kickdown relay. I didn't see it either. Locations of both of these would be great. Thanks for the HELP!

Thanks for the input. It's up an running. I'll get to the clutch switch when I have time. Just jumped the shifter wires with the pig-tail wires I cut off the shifter side.

Fixed my with a $2.00 sensor from the yard. I took my multimeter to make sure the part was good, resistance check. Later, Larry

The TPS has a small area with an open, so I swapped out a yard SPFI body. The problem was somewhat different, but still frying the fuse. I conected the Green D Check connector to check things our and the fuse blew. I started disconnecting the relays EGR, Purge Tank, and the IAC. When I disconnected the air control valve, the ecu fuse was OK. Swapped out the IAC with the original one and the problem is better. I can run without frying the fuse under all load conditions. I guess the combination of a bad TPS and IAC was to much for the system. I believe I may have a bad ground, as even though the fuse continues to power the ECU and the car Runs :>) the dash volt meter goes to 10 V when I load the engine. I put my fluke 87 on record and the alt. voltage remains at 13.6, so it's not the Alt. More to follow! If you have any ideas, send them my way.

If you are going to sell, let me know. I'm looking for a 97-99 in need of a motor, which I have. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Yes, the linkage is clear of all wires. Nothing flexing or pulling on the wires. I have not yet made all of the wire changes for the Auto to manual trans swap, but I don't think thats a factor in thisl

Get the codes checked and see what is bringing on the check engine light. I think Autozone is still doing this for free. Then go from there. Look in the coolant overflow tank for any oil, this is one sign of a HG failure. Also check the radiator when its cool, is the fluid to the top. Again if the HG is bad the coolant may not be pulled back into the system. Let us know what the codes are!

Initial message updated, any Ideas?

I'd pull it back apart and re-check the timing. I've done a few of these and even with triple checking, its not hard to get one of the 5 gears off just a tooth. Also, when the tensioner takes up the slack, it may repoistion things some. Did you get the belt with the timing marks painted on it? Make sure you're on the correct crank gear timing mark and its alignment is correct. Look twice.....