lmdew

The sensor is on the drivers side, just behind the manifold where the gas cables connect. Its straight down, a single wire goes to the sensor which is about an 1" dia. A single 12mm bolt holds it on. Do NOT over torque the new one. You can take a resistance reading, but I've not had much luck checking them that way. Good Luck.

Are you looking for a used unit? I pulled a motor from a 95 Legacy and the ABS was in good shape, only 52K on the car. Let me know if you want me to pull it, I could get it WED. I believe the yard gets $75 for them and another 20 would cover shipping. Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

If you need the sending units, I have both $25+shipping Lmdew@hotmail.com

Look for oil and or air bubbles coming to the top of your coolant recovery tank when its hot. Make sure the coolant is drawn back into the radiator when the engine is cool. If it doesn't do this is its a HG. Make sure you have all of the air out of the collant system. Very slow fill when you add coolant with the bleed screw out. I also like to add a coolant flush Tee to my heater line to let the air excape there. Good Luck

No, a stiff 1.5" blade putty knife will assist you in getting the pop in fastners. The door handle trim is the hardest, about the center of the trim top and bottom there is a tab that clipd over a pin. You need to gently push them up to release the trim. If you have problems and don't mind driving to the north side of the Springs, I can get you back up in no time. Larry

I was thinking about doing the same swap, but after all of your issues I think I'll stay with the 2.5 Good Luck! Sounds like the relay that puts power to the ign side of the system might be stuck closed, always hot. You might pull it and put a meter across the contacts. It should be under the dash, I believe.

I've got one $50+shipping. Larry

If CCR has trouble getting a harness for you, have them give me a call. I have one from a 96 Legacy, 2.2 sitting as a spare and it would get you going. Larry 719-572-3706. They helped me before and I'd be glad to return the favor.

I do believe its a hydraulic clutch so check the fluid and then bleed if necessary. That's not how Subaru's are, there clutchs are OK

I'd change the harness over. I had to do a like swap on the harness going from a 90 to a 93 Legacy 2.2 motors. Tie string to the end of the terminal when you pull the wires back under the intake. It makes re-stringing the wires a lot easier. Let us know how it works out.

Any problems with doing a power brake flush on a 98 Legacy Outback with antiskid brakes? I've always power flushed my cars, but this is the first one with an antiskid brake system. The manual doesn't say much and the board had no posts I could fine. Thanks Larry

The Stock WRX wheels and tires have been fine on my 98 Outback. NASIOC is the place to pick them up. $300 + shipping is the norm with very low milage. Some get lucky and pick them up for close to $200.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to loosen both sides and pull them together with a strap and tighten things up.

I've got a couple of good motors and the ecu. What are you looking for? Lmdew@hotmail.com

I've got server inner tire wear on the rear of a 93 Legacy wagon. We did swap the complete drive line a and suspension from a 92 wagon, but as far as I know 90-94 are the same. No camber adjustmets, I believe? What's the fix? Thanks

Looking for a quality high capacity radiator for a 98 Legacy Outback Wagon MT. The OEM radiator is only 1/2" thick and the tubes are very small. Subaru must have made this the minimum capacity possible.

Check the exhaust for coolant smell. If you have it there, its the head gasket. The waterpump may be leaking down on the exhaust. Look along the driver's side on the oil pan flange.

So what are they going to give you for the 97 with the bad engine? If the price is right, I'll take it. Lmdew@hotmail.com Any pics?

The passenger side has the pump and sending unit. The drivers side has a sending unit and a fuel pickup to transfer the fuel over the hump in the tank. Both sides are used for proper fuel gauge readings. If you need the units, I have both from a spare car we parted for my son's auto to manual trans swap. Lmdew@hotmail.com

If there is no signs of leaks, are you changing the Oil Pump Oring when doing the timing belt? I usually do the cam and crank seal along with a water pump every other timing belt, but I've seen some talk on changing the oil pump Oring also. Your thoughts?

This is common, first lube it with liquid wrench. After it sets for awhile, try using a pliers to put pressure on the sides of the insert. This might work, but if they are corroded, you will most likely end up pulling the insert out. You can try driving it out from the back if you have access, otherwise just pry on both sides of the bolt. You may be able to glue them back in, otherwise its the dealer or junk yard for a replacement. Good Luck

This happened to my son's 93 Legacy, 2.2. It was a combination of the cooling fans going out and a HG leak. Being a new driver, he didn't notice the fans were not working properly. This caused a minor overheat, resulting in a head gasket leak. It was minnor and did not cause problems all of the time and the overflow bottle was never low as the coolant was not being pulled back in to the engine as it cooled. Have a shop check the coolant for exhaust gases. That will confirm the HG leak. Good Luck. COS

Make sure all of the cables and ground point are clean and free of corrosion. Poor contact can cause these conditions. Good Luck

I'd ask to make sure it didn't max out the temp gauge. You may have a headgasket problem if they drove it with the pump problem for any length of time. Just a thought.

To change all of the fluid, pull one of the cooler lines from the radiator and run it to a bucket. Allow about a quart to pump out, stop the car and refil the trans. Keep on doing this until you've flushed the system. Works Great.