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Everything posted by lmdew
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The waterpumps have two weep holes. The one on the back side, you can't see until its pulled. If the pump is leaking, you may be loosing a small amount of coolant and it's not be sucked back in from the overflow bottle. You'd run fine until the coolant got low and then you'd see the overheat, but the overflow bottle will still be full. Good Luck!
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The speedo shaft has a nylon gear on it that strips. There is another gear on the passenger side output shaft. You can pull just the pax side and change the gear/gears. It's a pain. I don't know if its worth it to fix the trans. You can change to a manual trans, but its considerable work also. Have you had a shop give you an estimate? That would be a good first step. Good Luck!
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Everything went right in. Just make sure you remove the top Trans support when you are going back in with the lower engine mounts. I left it connected to help support the trans while the engine was out and it held the lower engine mounts about an 1" fwd of the holes. Once I pulled the bolt, life was good.
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**Update** 5/20/04 passed Colorado Emissions test without a problem. I've driven it a couple of hundred miles and the ECU showed no codes. I like the combination very much and for a $125.00 for a used engine you can't go wrong! Just did a 2.5 to 2.2 swap on a 98 Legacy Outback. I'd picked up the 2.2 with 52K on it and then watched for a Outback that needed an engine. The swap went well (thanks CCR Inc. for the information). I only have to trace out the vac. lines, as there is one extra. Also will make some brackets for the power steering lines, as neither set will bolt up. Anyone need a 2.5 as a spare? Just pulled a 2.5 motor out of a 1998 Legacy Outback Wagon. It was missing on one cyc. The Shop thought it was a Head Gasket. Good Fixer, 109K was running fine other than the miss, when I pulled it. $550+shipping. Lmdew@hotmail.com
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Is the coolant being drawn back into the radiator, when the engine cools? If not you have a leak somewhere, most likely the HG. A leaking HG will force the coolant into the recovery tank, but many times will not draw it back into the engine when it cools. Check the fluid at the rad. cap when its cool and see if its full. If not find the leak, HG or otherwise. Good Luck, Larry
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The sensor is on the drivers side, just behind the manifold where the gas cables connect. Its straight down, a single wire goes to the sensor which is about an 1" dia. A single 12mm bolt holds it on. Do NOT over torque the new one. You can take a resistance reading, but I've not had much luck checking them that way. Good Luck.
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Look for oil and or air bubbles coming to the top of your coolant recovery tank when its hot. Make sure the coolant is drawn back into the radiator when the engine is cool. If it doesn't do this is its a HG. Make sure you have all of the air out of the collant system. Very slow fill when you add coolant with the bleed screw out. I also like to add a coolant flush Tee to my heater line to let the air excape there. Good Luck
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No, a stiff 1.5" blade putty knife will assist you in getting the pop in fastners. The door handle trim is the hardest, about the center of the trim top and bottom there is a tab that clipd over a pin. You need to gently push them up to release the trim. If you have problems and don't mind driving to the north side of the Springs, I can get you back up in no time. Larry
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I was thinking about doing the same swap, but after all of your issues I think I'll stay with the 2.5 Good Luck! Sounds like the relay that puts power to the ign side of the system might be stuck closed, always hot. You might pull it and put a meter across the contacts. It should be under the dash, I believe.
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Coolant Issue
lmdew replied to JBRIII's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Check the exhaust for coolant smell. If you have it there, its the head gasket. The waterpump may be leaking down on the exhaust. Look along the driver's side on the oil pan flange.