lmdew

Both the upper and lower hoses are warm. No problems here. The O2 sensor is reading .85v average when driving and it should be closer to .4 Thanks for the ideas, Larry

Buy a set of jack stands, your life is worth much more. Now that you have the car in the air, loosen the tierod lock nut then remove the tierod cotter pin and nut and remove the tierod. can then unscrew it and put the new boot on. From the start mark the location of the tierod locknut and count the threads so you can put it back in the same place.

Vacuum is steady at 23psi with normal throttle response. I've tried both the AT MT ECU's they do run a little different, but both have the same problem--#3 correct other cyc rich. The only thing I haven't changed is the engine wire harness, but both engine were running fine before the change as indicated by the spark plug condition (new non-running engine, due to the front end accident) and running the 250K motor.

Problem continues :>( Changed the Temp Sensor - no change Changed the ignitor unit - no change Changed the throttle body - no change Opened the air screw on the (90 Throttle body) it helped smooth out the idle, which is now up to 2000 rpm. Just confirms the rich condition. Checked the intake for blockage - none No vacuume leaks found Checked the fuel pressure - 35psi O2 sensor is reading in the high .8 volt range. Used a fluke 87 to record it as i drove at 40 -50 mph the average was 0.856v, very rich. Number 3 is still very clean while 1, 2, & 4 are carbon black from the rich condition. This is what has me stumpped, if it was a sensor, they would all be rich or lean (not 1 of 4). The way I see the wiring, all injectors have a common ground and are receiving the input to open from the ECU. All Injectors have the same voltage readings 13+ volts. How can one cyclinder be lean and the others way to rich? I'm taking a break on this one, but if you have an idea please post it.

It may be the Intake Air Control Valve. If you have a manual, it tells you how to check it. Once the car is warm, it has little effect on the engine. Good Luck.

The problem continues!!! I've checked the intake for blockages as one person suggested; its clean as can be. I miss stated the clean running cyc the other day. Plugs from Cyc 1, 2, & 4 have heavy dark fuffly deposits; Cyc 3's plug is as clean as can be. I will swap out the temp sensor, but with #3 running right, I feel it is not a problem with a single sensor. Ideas???

The timing was off one tooth on each cam in different directions. I was about ready to pull the engine and thought the timing was the only thing that hadn't been triple checked. I still don't know why it was running smooth when cold. Strange. Happy Ending! Background: I swapped a 92 2.2 and 5sp into a 93 that had a bad auto trans. Note: the 92 engine and 5sp did come out of a car with a front end wreck and I could not check it prior to installing it in the 93. I replaced the cam and crank sensors when I did the TBelt.) The 92 engine runs fine prior to getting all the way up to temp (below 1/2 way on the gauge). Once its to temp, it will not idle and runs rough, like its missing. The temp stays below 1/2 always. I've been through things may times, checking and rechecking. What am I missing?????? The only indication I have is #4 is running clean, 1 2 & 3 are rich, as indicated by the plugs. Things I've done and checked: Compression cold and hot 140 all four (good for 6500' CO Alt.) New timing belt (runs fine when cold so timing is good, I believe) Swapped coil pack, wires, and plugs with a good 2.2 no change on either car. Changed Map Sensor, Mass Air Flow Sensor, MAP Sensor. no change. TPS checks out for resistance and power, with in limits. O2 sensor has good cross over once hot 0.2 to 0.8, and when cold its a steady .33 ohms. Swapped out fuel rails, complete with injectors, no change. The engine runs great when cold. With the good compression, I believe its a good 2.2. What am I missing??? I'm about ready to stick the high mileage (250K) 93 motor back in, but it would really bite to have this be an electrical problem. Thanks for the help in Advance

Wanted to check the Timing on my 92 2.2 motor, but theres no timing mark on the crank pully, nor did I see any marks on the flywheel. I guess I'll have to find TDC for #1 and ensuring the cam marks line up with the cover slots and then mark the crank pully. Any other Ideas? Nice job on the USMB!