lmdew

Rule #1, if it isn't broken don't fix it. It happens to us all. The inner tire-rod end's wear out as well.

Put the FWD fuse in and see if it makes a difference.

Yes my 2005 Impreza has to bulbs the H1 Low beam and a separate Hight Beam bulb.

Big hammer on the front and rear of the lower arm. Hit it hard and the taper will release. I never used a fork, cause I don't have one.

I tried a set of LED H1 bulbs. They did not work so back to original.

Dam Turbos! :>)

1+ Flush and bleed they system. New hose master to slave if it's original.

Well, 2 poor starters from NAPA caused the slow crank issue. The replacement Positive cable helped but when he got a good starter, much better. Aftermarket AT cooler added - has improved the Trans AT Temp. Still taking a bit of starting fluid to get it to start. Once running, it's fine. He can shut it off and start it right back up so fuel pump is working. I'm thinking the ECU is not turning the fuel pump on initially to build pressure. He's checking with a pressure gauge tee into the fuel line. If it's the ECU, I told him we could add a switch to the control circuit of the relay which would let him turn on the pump prior to start. I have to look, but I believe the ECU is just providing a ground for the control circuit of the fuel pump relay. Easy Button, if that's the case.

I have a 2005 Impreza RS wagon that has the H1 bulbs in it. Anyone have any feedback on the H1 LED Headlight Bulbs? Thanks, Larry

I heard a sizzling and the engine slowly stopped? Like wires shorting out? Slowly stopped? RPM dropped but it was still going? Have you checked for Spark? Put an extra plug in, ground it and turn it over. Nice strong blue spark? If so, add a small amount of fuel into the intake throttle body. Does it start and run for a bit? Is it cranking over normally? What prompted the engine change? Did you do the timing belt or any other maintenance on the engine before the installation?

Those 3 lines are fuel lines. Replace them. If it's been sitting that long, most likely no ac refrigerant in the system. The orings on the compressor and condenser are common leak points. You can get a cheap charge kit and put it in. You might get lucky!

Takes about 3 gallons for a full flush this way.

Drain Pull the trans coolant line and put on temp lines into a drain jug. 1- Fill Trans 2- Start it up and let the trans pump all the old fluid out the line you put on the trans coolant into a gallon jug. 3- When the drain jug is 3/4 full - Turn car off. Repeat 1-3 until the fluid is nice and clean. Put the trans radiator coolant lines back on and start it up. Fill to full COLD. Test drive, check fluid Full to HOT.

Amsoil has a great fluid.

Fuel pressure is not building with key to on, but not started. If he sprays a little starting fluid in, it will start and run and fuel pressure is 35psi. Fuel pressure drops to zero when the car is shut off. Both engines had this issue and it was a complete swap so the fuel pressure regulator, fuel injectors... have all been changed by the engine swap. Hard troubleshooting from 3500 miles away.

If you have other engine maintenance to do, pull the engine. Yes either works. Reseal the oil separator plate behind the flywheel. RTV - gray. Get the metal plate if you'r is plastic.

He texted me today and said it did not want to start. Crancks but not fire. If he sprays a little starting fluid in the vacumm port, it starts right up and will continue to do so for the day. Seems like when it sits, it's loosing fuel pressure. I suggested he Tee in a pressure gauge after the fuel filter to see what's happening. - Engine has been changed 2.5 to 2.2 swap. - He changed the fuel pump and filter to new NAPA units. I changed the 3 relays on the drivers side next tothe fuses. I have not had the time to dig into the schematics. That should be pretty much it, unless the fuel pump is not being powered.

Well he hand a 2+ volt drop in the +battery cable going to the starter. He changed it today and said it made a world of difference. Was hard starting, CEL was on for knock sensor... Computers like good stable power! Hope it takes care of all issues.

It's not the 16 flashes after start up indicating a fault code. When driving for a while, it will start flashing continuously. Engine Temp is fine, normal driving no shifting issues. Turn the car off and start it again and the AT TEMP is back to normal. Helping a fellow here in Colorado Springs. Thoughts? Thanks, Larry

Yes than that would be poor design. I've never seen one without the retaining circle clip about an 1/8" inside the CV joint. Subaru or aftermarket? I always stay with the Green Subaru halfshafts.

Yep, just pop it back in. It can take a good wack from the end of the axle. If you have the lower ball joint out so it's free, you can use the weight of the brake/hub to give you some weight.

Pressure switch is forward just off the condenser in the HP line. I unplugged it, jumped it the plug and the AC worked. Plugged it back in and the AC works. A little corrosion cleaned maybe. It's so tight up front you can't see the connector very well. We'll see what happens! Thanks to all.

Thanks.

Yes swapped the relay no change. I'll dig into it a bit more. When I jumped the AC and the compressor kicked on it was getting cold. Thanks