lmdew

Those 3 lines are fuel lines. Replace them. If it's been sitting that long, most likely no ac refrigerant in the system. The orings on the compressor and condenser are common leak points. You can get a cheap charge kit and put it in. You might get lucky!

Takes about 3 gallons for a full flush this way.

Drain Pull the trans coolant line and put on temp lines into a drain jug. 1- Fill Trans 2- Start it up and let the trans pump all the old fluid out the line you put on the trans coolant into a gallon jug. 3- When the drain jug is 3/4 full - Turn car off. Repeat 1-3 until the fluid is nice and clean. Put the trans radiator coolant lines back on and start it up. Fill to full COLD. Test drive, check fluid Full to HOT.

Amsoil has a great fluid.

Fuel pressure is not building with key to on, but not started. If he sprays a little starting fluid in, it will start and run and fuel pressure is 35psi. Fuel pressure drops to zero when the car is shut off. Both engines had this issue and it was a complete swap so the fuel pressure regulator, fuel injectors... have all been changed by the engine swap. Hard troubleshooting from 3500 miles away.

If you have other engine maintenance to do, pull the engine. Yes either works. Reseal the oil separator plate behind the flywheel. RTV - gray. Get the metal plate if you'r is plastic.

He texted me today and said it did not want to start. Crancks but not fire. If he sprays a little starting fluid in the vacumm port, it starts right up and will continue to do so for the day. Seems like when it sits, it's loosing fuel pressure. I suggested he Tee in a pressure gauge after the fuel filter to see what's happening. - Engine has been changed 2.5 to 2.2 swap. - He changed the fuel pump and filter to new NAPA units. I changed the 3 relays on the drivers side next tothe fuses. I have not had the time to dig into the schematics. That should be pretty much it, unless the fuel pump is not being powered.

Well he hand a 2+ volt drop in the +battery cable going to the starter. He changed it today and said it made a world of difference. Was hard starting, CEL was on for knock sensor... Computers like good stable power! Hope it takes care of all issues.

It's not the 16 flashes after start up indicating a fault code. When driving for a while, it will start flashing continuously. Engine Temp is fine, normal driving no shifting issues. Turn the car off and start it again and the AT TEMP is back to normal. Helping a fellow here in Colorado Springs. Thoughts? Thanks, Larry

Yes than that would be poor design. I've never seen one without the retaining circle clip about an 1/8" inside the CV joint. Subaru or aftermarket? I always stay with the Green Subaru halfshafts.

Yep, just pop it back in. It can take a good wack from the end of the axle. If you have the lower ball joint out so it's free, you can use the weight of the brake/hub to give you some weight.

Pressure switch is forward just off the condenser in the HP line. I unplugged it, jumped it the plug and the AC worked. Plugged it back in and the AC works. A little corrosion cleaned maybe. It's so tight up front you can't see the connector very well. We'll see what happens! Thanks to all.

Thanks.

Yes swapped the relay no change. I'll dig into it a bit more. When I jumped the AC and the compressor kicked on it was getting cold. Thanks

I had it service Nov 2024 after replacing the Evaporator due to a leak. Worked great till the other day. Then NO AC. No leaks and when I hook up the cheapo service gauge pressure is High, in the red. I pulled the AC Relay and jumped it. AC compressor kicked in and the gauge went into the green. I'll take it back to the service location, just thought I'd put this out there to get your thoughts. Thanks, Larry

Yep Relay would be my bet.

Drill up through the floor to locate the center. Hole saw down from inside to hold the nut with a socket. Long breaker bar, turn it by hand. PB Blaster or something like it to lube the threads.

Yep, if you can change just the glass it's less work. All of them I've had the side tracks/guides were broken and required a complete replacement.

It's not a hard job, but very labor intensive. - Remove all the interior trim around the windows to drop the headliner. Do it when it's warm and there is less chance of the plastic pins breaking. - Remove the headliner, drop the seats so you have the most room to turn it and get it out the rear hatch without bend it too much - Disconnect the sunroof wiring and drain tubes - Unbolt the sunroof, 2 helpers make it easier. - Reverse to install the used one. If you have access to self-serve yards, you can practice on a yard car. I know some of the slide hardware changed from year to year. If you change the complete frame that issue goes away. Best of luck!

Yes that's the spring. Hope the bushings take care of it.

car-part.com is a good source. Put in your info and search. As long as you match the rear diff ratio many will interchange.

Nice, always good when USMB members return.

What steps did you take to when replacing the bellows?

Colorado and Hawaii. Welcome in both.