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Everything posted by lmdew
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The Forester trailing arm body to arm mount is a little longer. If you are in the rust belt, use lots of Kroil and a breaker bar to work the 3 bolts out. Took a Milwaukee impact to a friends in WI and we broke the welds on the captive nut inside the frame. Solved that one by drilling an access hole into the frame from inside the car so we could put a socket on the nut.
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Rear Seals are usually NOT the leak source. The seperator plate on the back of the engine needs to be resealed. If it's the plastic one, Subaru has a replacement metal plate. Early ones were aluminum. Don't touch the rear seal unless it damaged or you can confirm it's the source of the leak. Most folks have more issues after replacing the rear seal. Having the sleave kit is nice. No way to tell if you need it until the engine/trans is pulled. The belt should be fine, another 20K to 60K left on it. Did you change all of the idler pulleys on the T Belt? if not, I'd to them now while the engine is out. Valve cover gaskets. Oil Pump reseal and rear cover plate screws torqued properly.
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Check to see if the large 1" dia hose going from the Air Box to the Idle Air Control Valve is connected. It usually comes off when the air filter is changed or top of the air box is removed. Use a Subaru MAF! NGK copper core plugs are best. How did the plugs look that were removed?
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Do you have a good Subaru/Transmission shop near by? Might be worth having them take a look. At least you could get an idea of what's up. A friend had a 2013 Legacy that was giving him some issues. Shop said a Speed Sensor. I found a good PDF and he went to the yard and pulled the sensor. Swapped it out and all good so far.