lmdew

I have may of those removed and saved parts. Years later still waiting to be used. There was an airbag recall. Passenger side is a bunch of work. I'd let them go to the scrapper.

Did you check for codes with your rough running engine?

CEL Old OBDI but the codes can be read, flashing CEL with the black connector connected.

While it's a bit of work, you may want to drop the headliner. That will give you good access to the drain hoses. Far outside corners are where the single sunroof drains are. I'm not sure on the double. If you have never removed all the plastic around the windows to drop the headliner, a Self-serve junk yard is a great place to learn!

I see you have wood blocks to spread the weight across the trans pan, but even with that it's possible to dent the pan. It only take a little to restrict the flow of fluid into the pickup. Yes the trans are heavy as heck! I've always had to remove the trans from the jack and then roll it over a bit to get it to slide out from under the car on jack stands. Same going back in. It's a heavy lift under the car to get the trans up onto the jack pad. Sends you to the Doctor to get the back fixed. 1+ on GD last comment!

Yes that's what GD is saying. If the computer is not seeing the signals, the ECU is not powering the injectors and no Fuel from the injectors.

Good call on the high cold idle!

Rust free Colorado is Great!

Can always cut a slot in a block of wood and put it where the car jack goes on the body.

Record them, clear them and see what returns. That's a long list. How long has the CEL been on? Plugs you need to put the socket in the hole, connect a 3" extension and the ratchet. Some spots you can get a universial joint and a 3 & 6 inch extension on to get the plug out and back in. Not a good design for sure. NGK plugs for sure. I go copper core and NGK wires as well.

car-part.com I see very nice leather seats at times in the yard. I have pulled covers off in the yard or just get the complete seat and bolt it in. I had one Brat seat fixed at a shop. Like $250 to get the bottom done.

1+ You can also jack all 4 corners and start it up and see what's moving.

I put about 20oz in it and it's cooling well. The compressor was locked up, belt broken and idler adjuster broken. I had to grab a compressor from the yard $45. I had the other parts. New Subaru o-rings and a charge and it working well. PA car, lots of rust. I can hear the rear wheel bearing starting to to. She is an Air Force Cadet in her Senior year. I suggested a nice rust free CO Subaru before she transfers.

Thanks.

This is what I found in the FSM online. Seems a little low. The sticker is missing under the hood. Please confirm. Thanks, Larry

Use to pull them with the forklift at work. I could hold the engine an reach the controls with my raised leg to raise and lower the engine. Not ideal, but if no one was available to operate the forklift it worked. Those days are long gone, but were good ones.

The Sensor was easy, he had no problem.

It's a unit. Rust has it locked in. Soak it with PB blaster or something like it. I've had good luck putting a pipe wrench on the ball joint and spinning it inside the knuckle to break down the rust. Step is the gas tourch to heat the knuckle up.

He went to the You Pull and got the 2nd pulley sensor and installed it. So far so good. Nice!

Transmission shop pulled P2760 they said indicated 2nd pulley sensor. Of course it was driving fine while there. More research I think. Good info. I tried to upload the file but it was to large. Here's the link: https://atracom.blob.core.windows.net/webinars/import/subaru_lineartronic_cvt_introduction.pdf

Swap the bulbs side to side and see if the fault follows the bulb. You will also get a chance to inspect the bulbs and connectors.

1+ for timing!

Looks like the Damper separated and walked back into the cover. I'd pull it apart and check the components. If it's just the crank damper you can inspect the shaft and key and replace it. If the Timing belt is close to due you may as well do it and all the idler pulleys.

Thanks GD. Always lots of good information.

He has it into a good Trans Shop. GD if it's just the TC lockup solenoid can you change just it instead of the complete valve body? Thanks, Larry