lmdew

Downshifted at speed!

I've done many DOHC to 2.2 swaps. I'd do that any day before HG!

No leaks noticed on a 15 minute run. Hope I got it. Time will tell.!

Got it. Cam sensor wiring was damaged by rabbits I believe. Always something.

I cut a used Subaru Timing belt and wrapped it around the cam gear 1 3/4 times and took the other end to the crankshaft and looped it around so the teeth of the belt locked together with a vise grips as a clamp. I had to cut 4 teeth off the belt so it would slip between the cam gears but that was easy and no harm. Worked like a champ to break them loose and lock them to torque the bolt to 58 ft lbs.

Neither of those were off. I'm going to recheck the cams on Monday. I don't know how they would have gotten out of position, but worth another look.

No, check it. Thanks

It's the old style crank gear with only a few teeth. I've done many 2.2 so I know it's lined up correctly. Rechecked the Drivers/Left cams to make sure they were both under load when rotating clockwise (looking aft from the front of the engine). Marks lined up. Got it to fire with full throttle but it's not right. I did wash down the engine bay at the carwash to get clean off the oil mess. It ran fine back from the wash 5 miles or so. I' don't think its water in the connectors... I broke rule #1 and started another job at the same time. I replace a broken windshield wiper switch. Should not be a factor either. I did drop the lower dash panel and lower steering column cover. Shouldn't be an issue in this either. Any easy way to verify the crank and cam timing is 100% correct? I pulled #1 plug and stuck a hose down the hole to feel for compression, but with the lack of access and the timing belt still on opening the valves I'm not sure this a good check. No CEL codes and it ran fine before this, other than pissing oil out the crank seal. Thanks for the cam pics, I'll triple check on Monday.

All back together. (Did I tell you I hate DOHC engines). I turned it over by hand 2 times. All the timing belt marks line up perfect. Turns over fine, but not starting. All the sensors are hooked up. Is it possible to have the cams out of position when installing the timing belt, but all the timing belt marks correct? The crank gear timing mark is correct the dash on the rear tooth. Thanks, Larry

I cut a used Subaru Timing belt and wrapped it around the cam gear 1 3/4 times and took the other end to the crankshaft and looped it around so the teeth of the belt locked together with a vise grips as a clamp. I had to cut 4 teeth off the belt so it would slip between the cam gears but that was easy and no harm. Worked like a champ to break them loose and lock them to torque the bolt to 58 ft lbs. All of the old seals were junk, but came out with ease as they were a little undersized. The fellow used sealant to hold them in. Silly. I cleaned everything up and installed Subaru seals. Hope to have it back together and leak checked today. The crank shaft polished out well, I think it will be fine. Oil pump bolts and seal taken care of as well.

Thanks

58 ft lbs is what I'm find is that correct for 1999 Forester DOHC Cam gear bolt torque? Thanks, Larry

Yep, always clean well after use!

She has been driving it for over 2 years. Leaking like crazy. She had the oil changed two weeks ago and today it was no oil on the dip stick when I checked it. Not good. Yes Subaru Seals, cam and crank. It's the middle surface in the picture where the seal sits. My next problem is getting the last two cam sprockets off. I hate DOHC engines. I do not have to tool to hold them. Most of the time I can use an old timing belt to lock them in place and get the bolts to loosen with a breaker bar. This guy over torqued everything! Having a hard time getting them. He used some aftermarket black cam and crank seals and put some sort of sealant around the outside. Crap work for sure! I wish she would have went to GD for a Subaru or waited until I could inspect it for her. So it goes. I'll get her back on the road.

Why do guys use crappy parts and over torque everything. Friend picked up a 99 Forester out in Portland OR. Fellow did the headgaskets.... It was leaking oil like a watering can. Oil everywhere. I washed it, pulled the timing covers and started it up. Oil running down the oil pump. When I pulled it the seal was hard as a rock and broken in a few parts. The spring was on the crank. Used a bit of scotchbright to clean it up. As you can see it there. I could try to move the seal, but there's not lot of room to do that. Thanks, Larry

You may want to have the sleeve kit for a worn trans nose shaft that the throw out bearing rides on. Have the flywheel surfaced. Most places will do this the same day on work days. If you have the engine out, it's a great time to take care of other necessary maintenance - Reseal the rear breather plate on the back of the engine. - Timing belt, seals and pulleys - Valve cover seals

Thanks for the Fast Cash.

Sent!

2 - 44 ohms as the float moves up to down. PayPal is fine.

The right tools always make the job easier.

I think I have one. It's the ejector pump that moves fuel from the drivers side of the tank to the passenger side were the fuel pump is. Lmdew2@gmail.com

This fellow drove over a mile marker and put a fist size hole in the tank. I've changed many 90 - 99 tanks but never a 2005. About the same? Thanks, Larry

Active hearing protection by Subaru!

Have you changed/flushed out the Trans Fluid. I was have some shift delays on my 2000 OBS Amsoil trans fluid greatly improved it.

Installed IAC Valve and gasket today. NGK Plugs and Plug Wires. Cam Sensor Replaced. Speedo Fixed. We'll see how it does.