lmdew

www.car-part.com a good search engine.

Get a Subaru Rebuilt Alt!

1+ on GD's shop. I told Friends in Bellingham, WA well north of Seattle to head down!

Got my 2! Thanks for the link.

I'd start with the relay. Easy to swap, used ones OK. I've had the same problem more than once.

You'd spend almost as much in fluid hose to get to the passenger side a you would for an aftermmarket trans cooler.

Yes the fuel pump is only powered for a short time when you first turn the key on. Once the engine is running it's always powered. Sometime your meter may lie to you. If you have no load on the circuit you can read voltage but still not have what you need. You Tube search Load Pro. You might want to try the relay under the dash. If you can back probe the connector and leave it hooked to the pump that would also give you a better voltage reading. Check the circuit under load! When this happens you could also pour a little gas in the intake. If it fires you have confirmed it's a fuel issue. Gas water Free?

I've put clamps on the end of the hose, to stop the air from getting sucked in.

Details on your Subaru would help.

Look here: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/26-subaru-stuff-listed-on-ebaycraigslist/

Under the fuel rail mount tabs going to the intake. Highlighted below.

I have a bunch of fuel injector rails - Red injecotors, late 90's. Today I pulled 8 for another USMB member. The rails and Injectors were removed from the intake. I removed the Injector cap screws. I tried to push them out. They were stuck. I took a soft wood board, put it on the Injector and clamp against the rail and pulled them together. The Injectors popped right out. The softwood protected the tip of the injector. Nice.

Auto or Manual. Auto's are very heavy, a lift is ideal.

Load Pro will let you read voltage and Load the circuit at the fuel pump connector. Load Pro: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DwgYI9y2qc Great Tool. You'd have to be all set and have someone turn the key for you as the ECU only cycles the pump for a short time prior to start.

Up high under the driver dash kick panel.

Only thing on the passenger side is the fuel rail and injectors. Nothing to do with filling the tank.

Always nice to remove the half shaft from the hub in the yard to make sure they are not rusted in. It also give you a look at the seals. Not a for sure check but if you turn it an listen closely to the bearing you can get an idea if it's OK or BAD.

You can hook up a multimeter to the connector. It's either OL - Open or 0.0 - Closed for ohms. Yes it does input to the ECU, slight impact on idle RPM. The two connectors are right on the back of the engine as they come up from the trans. Little 2 pin connector. Gray and Brown if my memory is correct. One for Reverse and the other Neutral.

Lots of work, glad you got it. Happy 2021!

1+ Autoparts Store. And get a reader, they are cheap.

A few times I just walked into the dealer Parts Dept with the o-rings so they could match them up.

Hope you had a Great Christmas in this strange 2020. Stay Healthy and Safe as we move into 2021! Happy Boxing Day.

On replacement T-Belts I try to change them out at 80K. Cheap insurance. I've never seen a T-Belt fail. Most often the toothed idler gear goes first.

www.car-part.com Great source!

Check the rear diff and make sure the half shafts are fully seated. I had more than one Subaru where the half shaft uncoupled from the rear diff, but was only about a 1/4" out. Felt like the clutch was slipping in the manual trans.