lmdew
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Everything posted by lmdew
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I'd hold on to all the parts until you are on the road and it's been fine for a month or so! -
Seat of the pants. Just drive it. Try tight slow circles in both directions, checking for torque bind. Make sure it shifts through the gears as it should. No AT Temp light flashing.
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Cleaner the better. It's a bunch of work to change the trans. I'd rather replace 2 engines than an Auto trans. Heavy as can be. That does not mean with a good fluid flush once it's running it may be fine. Once you confirm it's working, drain the fluid. Fill, pull the upper radiator ATF line and run another hose into a gallon jug. Start the engine, watch all the old dark nasty fluid be pumped out. 3/4 full, shut off the engine, fill the trans with new fluid and repeat. It usually takes about 3 gallons to get all the old nasty fluid out. Hook up the radiator ATF line. Service to the proper level, take it for a long drive and recheck the fluid level when it's hot. Service as required. You are Done!
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OK. Can always drop the 4 bolts out of the rear diff to driveshaft connection.
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Junk yard hints. Look for cars that have been hit hard - in areas you don't care about. At least you know it was on the road. Look at the overall condition of the car, if it's in good condition you know the owner cared about it. Clean fluids are a +
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To make the lower ball joint pop out of the lower A-arm I loosen the nut, jack the a-arm a little on the ball joint stud and then place a 3 lb BFH on the back of the a-arm and hit the front with another BFH. The ball joint will release. Remove the jack, remove the ball joint nut and pull it out.
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Heard nothing but good things about Superrupair, but I don't do Turbos!
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GD's in Portland, OR. Almost as rust free as CO.
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Yep no easy way. Have to remove the knuckle from the strut and bottom A - arm to get enough room to prevent seal damage.
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Rear diff is the way to go for both wheels. I've been doing it for years. No problem
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Search Torque Bind on the USMB. Lots of good info and pics. Tires all the same size and pressure? Changed the trans fluid 3x or flushed by pulling the trans cooler line off the radiator? Read the code for the TCU. Instructions on the USMB
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Save on KYB Shocks & Struts at RockAuto
lmdew replied to RockAuto's topic in Products for your Subaru
RA does not ship to CO. Something about taxes. Crazy! -
Which CV Joint? Best just to fix it. Rear, you may be able to remove the rear section of the drive shaft. More work then changing the half shaft. Front, no option but to fix it.
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Is your AT Temp light flashing 16 times when you start the car? If the FWD light is not coming on when you put the fuse in the holder and you have torque bind. the C Duty Solenoid is most likely the problem. Lots of info on the USMB. Search Torque bind.
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sorry for the extra pic.
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So you are most likely seeing a coolant leak. To replace this, the Intake has to come off. I'd pull the hose, check the pipe, hose and clamp. You may be able to clean up the pipe and make sure the hose and clamp are good. Replace as necessary to fix the leak. The small hose going to the throttle body also sometimes leaks and will pool on top of the engine.
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Most likely you bent the brake backing plate and it's rubbing the rotor. Jack the car, put a jack stand under it and then with the wheel still on rotate it. Look and listen for the rub.
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Did the front O2 Sensor take care of your P2097? Have it on the wife's 2006 Forester. Thanks, Larry
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Nice Pics. Great to add to the FAQ.
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https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/colorado-springs-1981-volkswagen/7118178070.html
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That's in the ball park. The new owner will be looking at 1200 - 3000 to get it back on the road.
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Did you get the coolant temp sensor plugged in? Both of them. One is for the dash, the other for the ECU.
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Sweet deal for someone.
