lmdew

www.car-part.com

Best to walk away! There are plenty of good Subaru's out there.

Yes, that pic will help. It depends on the buyer. If they are going to keep it a long time, the salvage title may not be a big deal to them. If they plan on selling it a year down the road, the title status is big. $1000 - $2000 off the market price with the salvage title. You might do better. Never hurts to ask. If no one is knocking on your door you will know the price is too high.

1+

- $2000 for a salvage title. Depends on the market in your area. It's nice you know the details. If you have pics of the damage post those as well.

Was the timing off when you pulled the belt? If it was on or only a tooth or 2 you should be fine. Time it and then crank it over by hand. Everything feel good? You can hand crank and check for compression at each cylinder. Hand cranked compression has its limits but its a indicator.

Some times Luck is with you! I"ve had a couple of these.

Used Trans.

When I've had like symptoms, it's been a trans change. You can fix them, but it's way cheaper and faster to grab a good used one. www.car-part.com

Get a 4 wheel alignment. They will tell you what is out. Auto or Manual Trans? Torque bind could also be a problem if an auto. There is no camber on the rear. Aftermarket Camber bolts are available. I've also used smaller dia bolts on the top so I could manually adjust the camber when I put Forester struts on Impreza OBS.

Brake rotors or calipers.

I've been using the Motive Products 0090 Power Bleeder Tank for a few years now. It works well and moves plenty of fluid through the brake system to flush it out without pumping the brakes. How were the caliper pins? Free movement?

I take it you are talking front for your FWD Subaru. I know I have some rears.

Home Depot. $7.59 Pick up in store Free or Free shipping on orders over $45. Ordered 6, free shipping to the house. Nice Tried Rockauto but they could not sell to me as they had to pay State and City taxes directly to CO. First time I've seen that.

I pulled the old on apart to see how it was put together. Motor and cable spool are all one unit. Since it was junk, I pulled it apart. Yes, while it's possible you'd never change just one part of the regulator. Just buy the complete assembly. It's over $800 from Subaru but under $50 a you pull yards. 2010 - 2014 is the interchange range. Outback, Legacy, for sure.

Sure do Love Colorado!

2010 - 2014 is the interchange range. If you can't roll the window down, it's hard to get to the FWD window to regulator bolt. The car I pulled it from the door was trash anyway so I cut the interior metal to get at the bolt. Easy R&R.

Gone are the motor gear and track. It's now a motor and cable 1/16" or so. One strand of the cable broke and jammed things up. Much easier to remove but not as reliable. Later

I've pulled many 90-2000 window regulators and motors. Anyone have experience with a 2011? A friend is bringing her's over soon. Thanks, Larry

Sounds like a used 2.2 would be the way to go. www.car-part.com

Good to know there are Great Mechanics out there that care and take the time to do it right.

Could be. I've had several Subaru when they sat for a few days would not start right away. If that happened, I'd turn off the key and turn it back on. Thus cycling the fuel pump and it would start right up. Fuel filter Leaking Injector Could also impact fuel pressure.

The circuit board right in front of the connector develops opens in the circuits. Putting the shims in closed the circuits, at least for now.

1+ I hate turbo cars. I've worked on my son's 92 turbo but I'd never buy one. NA for me.

On the dash wiring that I've pulled from older Subaru the dash has all of the extra plugs for the option switches. You could check behind the switch blank offs to see if the plugs for the options are there.