lmdew

It's got the 2.5 DOHC engine which has head gasket issues. If the HG have not been done, expect to do them. Better to find a Subaru with a 2.2 engine in the 95-99 year range. Here's a nice one: https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/colorado-springs-2000-subaru-impreza/6939205493.html

From what I remember there is a cam on the MC that is pulled way from the fender when the clutch is pushed in. There should be a spring on the MC that pulls it back open.

Disconnect the cable from the clutch fork and make sure the master cylinder cam is all the way released.

Nice.

Read voltage under load at the starter and going into the starter motor. Load Pro. Check it out on youtube. Great tool.

When you stay starting issues, you mean the engine is NOT turning over. At least that is how I read your post. You need to check voltage under load - key on, turned to start. Read it at the starter positive terminal and starter + lead coming out of the main contacts of the starter. Clutch pedal safety interlock switch may also be the cause. Ensure it's being pressed in when you have the clutch pushed all the way in.

I did the better half's 2006 Forster Clutch today. With the half shaft NOT having the stub shafts and roll pin it tough to get enough clearance to get the half shafts out of the transmission without damaging the seal. The exhaust was nice with the cats staying up on the engine. I had replaced the rear muffler a while back so I knew those bolts would be good. The 3 nuts coming off the cats came of without a problem. 95-99 are my favorite years. Larry

Sell it as is! I"ve fixed a few. Options: 1) Hit a yard that will let you do the work, cut out a good fender about 4" bigger than the rust you are trying to fix. It's not worth welding in unless you are or have access to a great welder. Grind down to clean metal. Buy some metal epoxy and use sheet metal screws to bond the new metal on top of the hole. Once cured you can grind off the head of the screws and bondo the seam. 2) Cut out the rust. Put a temp tape or cardboard patch in place. Get a bunch of fiberglass and from the inside of the car build up the hole with fiberglass. It's a mess and a long job to get in there. I've done it but would not do it again. 3) Cut out the rust and get some Aviation Speed Tape. This tape is intended to stay in place. Build up a few layers of tape over the hole. Extend the tape 3 or 4" past the hole. It will keep the water out.

1+ on el_freddo's response. Front bucket seats will bolt in. You may have to switch the seat belt latch. Radio should swap over. The rest of the dash stuff NO. Front brakes, easy swap. Rear Brakes Drum to rotor can be done but it's some work.

Rust free CO 99 Outback with a 2.2 engine swap. Sweet!

Depends on the cause. It should be a 2.2 fewer HG issues. Check the fluid in the radiator Check to see if the Fans come on with the AC If all is OK you should be able to get 15 miles out of it.

Yes they go into the fuse box in the engine bay. Hit the yard and pull a good set. Something caused the overheat. Big Amp?

To new for me, but you should be able to look at your new one.

Not getting to the yards to often, but I'll keep an eye open. The Kitchen remodel and new job have been keeping me busy. Later, Larry

Hit the self serve yards and pull a set of KYB struts, complete they are about $35 each.

If the motor is turning, it's the window regulator that's damaged. The motor gear only contacts the regulator gear about an 1/4" . Hold the window up and remove the 3 motor bolts. You can remove the motor and inspect the gears on the motor and regulator. With the motor out, carefully lower and raise the window to make sure its moving freely and smoothly. You should find the problem. Hit the junk yard.

I heard today Nick passed in peace and quickly the first week of July. You could not find a nicer fellow. Always happy to help and a true friend. Nick you will be missed but not forgotten.

Did the fans get plugged back in? Do the fans come on when you turn on the AC?

You have to pull the spring on the cable back so you can remove it from the bracket. If you want to pull the cable out of the backing plate there is a clip that needs to be removed. It's right where the cable enters the backing plate.

Yes they will bolt right up. No problems.

I'd find the reason for the wobble. Fix it. It should sit flat. You can straighten it as needed. Any flat surface will work.

Check out Load Pro on You Tube. Great tool!

Take a look at the plugs. Stick you finger into the oil pan to check whats left of the oil. Look at the coolant. Those will give you a pretty good idea of the condition.

Sounds right to me. If it's in good shape, snag it.

www.car-part.com is a good source.