lmdew

2.2 swap! On the 2.2 if it's a good engine I've never done the HG. Just TB and seals, drop it in.

Good ones always go fast.

Yep all except for the 10mm socket that dropped under the flex plate between the engine and the flex plate. Of course we found out about it once the engine was in and we were bolting up the TC. We could feel is and move it with a coat hanger, but had to pull it half way to get it out. Pulled the engine FWD enough to put a large magnet on the flex plate which grabbed the socket so we could rotate it up from the bottom. A second magnet pulled it out of the hole. To many cooks in the kitchen and to many tools out and about. Never happens when I do the job myself. Help is nice, most of the time.

My son has one. I'll ask him for the VIN.

Engine dropped in today. Runs great, with CEL. I have 2.2 intakes with an EGR in CO. I've pulled air from the IAC hose before. A quick trip to ACE, PVC Tee fitting and a fitting to reduce to the EGR line dia. Cut the EGR pipe, use an extra Brake Booster line to run it to the IAC hose. Works great. Down the road. Time to get back to CO and do house work. Thanks Larry

Doing the swap for a friend in Wisconsin. 2.5 DOHC to with EGR, 2.2 swap not EGR 99 Outback Sedan. I know the Check Engine Light will be on. The questions is will there be any negative impacts on the engine? Thanks, Larry

I'm sure I missed something but I put this together for a friend and thought it may help someone on the USMB as well. Subaru 2.5 to 2.2 Engine Swap 96 – 99 Outback 1. Spend some time steam cleaning the old engine and engine bay. It’s time well spent. 2. Block the Exhaust and other ports on the replacement engine and steam clean it well. 3. If you want to relieve the fuel pressure, pull the pump connector under the rear seat or in the cargo compartment. 4. 22 mm socket and 3’ breaker bar can be put on the crank sprocket and the breaker bar resting on the frame rail just in front of the battery. 5. Pull the coil connector to make sure the car does not start. 6. Turn the car over, a quick hit of the key to engage the starter is plenty to break the bolt loose. 7. Disconnect and remove the battery. 8. I put cardboard in the trunk/cargo to store all of the parts. A coffee can is good for nuts and bolts. 9. Remove the MAF, Air Filter and airbox going to the intake. 10. Remove the 3 fuel lines from the intake. Some WD-40 or other lube and a pliers to push the hose off will save the hose. Fuel will spray out if you have not released the fuel pressure. 11. Remove the ALT/Power Steering Belt and AC Belt 12. Remove the Power Steering pump bolts and bolts holding the line to the intake. Move the pump over to the air filter box. 13. Jack the Car and drain the coolant by removing the hose from the thermostat housing. 14. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat 15. Unplug the radiator fans 16. Remove the upper radiator hose 17. Remove and plug the transmission coolant lines from the radiator if it’s an auto transmission. 18. Remove the 2 upper radiator support bolts and bracket/s. 19. Remove the Radiator and fans. 20. Remove the coolant lines from the rear of the intake or at the fire wall. 21. Remove the Starter Battery cable and small electrical connector at the rear of the starter. 22. Remove the lower starter mounting nut. 17mm 23. Remove the upper starter bolt and remove the starter. 24. Remove the EGR Valve 25. Remove the EGR hard line from the intake 26. Remove the 8 Intake 12mm bolts 27. Disconnect the coolant lines from the throttle body 28. Remove the throttle cables 29. Remove the hose from the IAC 30. Disconnect the coolant temp sensor, cam sensor, crank sensor and oil pressure connectors. 31. Remove the intake. 32. Remove the 4 12mm bolts connecting the flex plate to the transmission torque converter. Make sure you use a 6-point socket! 33. Remove the engine to transmission mount bolts and nuts – 14mm. 6-point socket and wrenches are best. 34. Disconnect the 2 O2 Sensor Connectors so the wiring is free. 35. Remove the Exhaust Y-Pipe and CAT. I usually take it off in one piece disconnecting it from the flex joint. 36. Remove the 2 14mm nuts on the engine mounts, lower ones on the bottom of the frame. 37. Double check to make sure everything is disconnected! 38. Raise the Engine/Trans, until the mount studs clear the frame. 39. Block the transmission up with sections of 2x4 wood blocks. That will hold it up to ease installation of the new engine. 40. Double check to make sure all Eng./Trans mount bolts and nuts are removed. 41. Put a large screwdriver or pry bar into one of the slots to push the torque converter back into the transmission. It should move about an 1/8” back. It’s critical to keep the TC in the transmission! 42. Split the Eng./Trans flange! Many times is it necessary to drive old screwdriver in at the split line. Many times the alignment pins are corroded in! Take your time and don’t damage things! 43. Once the engine comes forward, push the T/C aft. When you have a 2” GAP the TC should be clear of the flexplate. I take a small flat bar and bolt it to the bellhousing to hold the TC in the trans! 44. Pull the engine FWD until it’s free of the lower studs. Carefully remove from the engine bay. 45. Clean the engine bay as necessary. Prep the 2.2 engine and then install in reverse order. Things I usually do to the replacement engine: 1. Timing Belt, pulley, Cam and crank seals, oil pump rear cover screw check/Loctite and new seal. 2. Valve Cover Gaskets 3. Plugs and Plug wires 4. Clean the IAC 5. Seal the Rear Breather plate 6. Any other maintenance that is needed.

Pull the 2 14mm bolts holding the caliper bracket on and just replace the complete thing. I might have one, but I'm out of town for the week. Larry

Take some pictures and check the hose to compressor fittings as there were several different sizes. 90-94 I think were the same. Check www.car-part.com as well.

The parking pawl is in the tail shaft. If it's broken it's an easy fix if that's all. I could be much more.

It becomes very soft and yes to hot to touch without a glove.

I have a dual element propane garage heater: Mr. Heater, MH30T Double Tank Top Outdoor Propane Heater Put it about 12" from the bumper and let it warm up. Make sure you wear heavy leather gloves. Works great!

If you feel it in the bottom of the drivers seat first the rear disk could be the problem.

It must really go. Little weight and lots of power. Nice!

Stick with a Subaru MAF. Aftermarkets are junk.

The Outback rear trailing arm bracket that bolts to the body is an 1" longer to keep the rear wheel centered. Careful with the bolts they are easy to cross thread. If the bolts are rusty, I've had them break the welded nuts loose inside the body.

Front top hats are the same. The rears will most likely need to be swapped over. You need a thick washer under the nut on top of the strut to take up the extra space!

I love the old style. Just compress the plunger slowly and pin it. Once you are happy with the timing, Slide it inboard, torque the bolts and pull the pin!

Go back with a list of parts costs. Show her what it will take to make it a good subaru again. $800 might be OK for AK. $500 would be better. List of parts and $500 in cash and you might drive it away.

If you have an amp meter, check the draw at the pump. When the pumps are going out they sometimes run for a bit and then go out. The amps will go up.

I pull used pumps from the yard all the time. Subaru pumps do fail, but are pretty darn good. Can you hear it run when the key is first turned on? When it will not start put a cap of fuel in the throttle body and see if it starts and runs for a few seconds. If so it's most likely the pump or relay. Lots of fellows recommend checking the fuel pressure, but you need to Y into the fuel line and have a good gauge.

Could but that's high for that engine with all those missing parts, but may be a great deal in AK. Lot's of work and you will need a work around for the EGR as you can not drill the block in that one or you drill into the coolant jacket. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong. www.car-part.com and check for a 95 2.2

Make sure you don't cross thread the bolts that go into the body. It's supper easy to do and not easy to fix! Run them in and out by hand a few times with some PB Blaster or something to lube the internal nut welded to the body and then put the arm on! If it starts to cross thread you will feel it. STOP and fix it.

95-98 2.2 is pretty much plug and play if you have the same EGR configuration. Y-pipe on the 96 and up is single port but you can buy a y-pipe and bolt it up. They came with the DOHC 2.5 which has HG issues. www.car-part.com is a good place to search.

Minor differences in the engines. Great parts car or fix it and drive it for years.