lmdew

I had changed the radiator in my 06 Forester and then the pump started making noise. Bubbles in the fluid. Some quality hose clamps on the hose at both ends solved the problem. Love those German rolled edge hose clamps. I use to pick them up in the UPAP yards as I went by BMW and others.

It's just a matching air fitting for the bleeder and a matching pipe thread fitting on the inside.

If you have the 2 part rear drive shaft, yes you could remove the rear half and drive in FWD. The drive shaft FWD yoke into the trans keeps the fluid in, so it has to stay. If you can get a lift for the repair it's much easier. The most time is spent cleaning the gasket surfaces. The wire is very short so when you pull the tail shaft back, take it easy. I'd leave a bolt or two in with a 1/2" of space to keep it close when you break it free. Watch the Thrust Washer Take note of how the spring is located on the parking lock link. Larry

It's all in the data. Data driven maintenance is best.

No need to drop the pan for a filter. If you have the external filter change it. Dextron III is fine. I drain, Fill, pull the upper trans radiator cooling line. Put 2 tubes into a gallon jug and start the car. The trans will pump out all the old dirty fluid. When you have about 3/4 of a gallon, shut off the car. Fill it back up and start it again with an empty jug. another 3/4. Repeat until the fluid is nice and red/clean. About 4 gallons. Put the trans cooler line back on and properly service the fluid.

You want a Subaru Thermostat! Larry

Pull the cover around the latch hook on the body. There are 2 12mm bolts that hold it. Mark it's present location, loosen the bolts and give it a good tap. it will move back about an 1/8". That should do it. It's worked for me more than once. Larry

Good used KYB set from a self serve yard about $40 each. 2" about. You only need the trailing arm bracket that bolts to the body. It's the part that is longer. Take it easy on the bolts and use PB blaster or some other lube. The nuts are welded to the frame and I've had them break loose. They are also easy to cross thread so make sure they properly thread in.

Good used 2.2 and do the T-Belt and seals and drop it in.

Fronts are easy with the camber adjustment. It will usually bring it in. Rears, i use a smaller dia bolt on the top to allow the camber adjustment. They do sell camber bolts. I've used the lower hub to trailing arm bolts on the top and if you tilt the wheel all the way in you will be close. Outbacks do have a longer steering wheel to rack link and about 1" lift blocks between the cross members and the body. On the Impreza OBS I've lifted you also need the rear trailing arm to body bracket to center the rear wheel in the wheel well.

You can always remove the negative battery terminal to prevent battery drain when not running.

You may have a small leak in the heater core that allows air to be pulled back into the system instead of the coolant. Larry

Use a Subaru thermostat? If you used an aftermarket change it. Why did you change the radiator and thermostat. Air bubbles and black oil slime in the overflow tank? HG.

Have to remove the clip off the pin, push the plastic tabs in on the end of the pin, then remove the metal pin going through square bracket attached to the pedal.

Like a good friend, you miss the USMB when it's down.

Check the self-serve yards around Denver. I just put a 99 hatch onto my 2000 OBS. I noticed some hinge differences on the later hatches but I bet if you used your hinge they would bolt up. www.car-part.com is also a good place to check. After 4 yards, I found a hatch that was in very good condition and even the same color. <$100 out the door.

Check out the LoadPro. Great electrical testing tool. Dan has many videos on You Tube. Your multimeter can lie to you unless you are checking the circuit under load. Larry

www.car-part.com for a used 2.2, do the T-belt and seal and drop it in. Good for another 100k.

Is there black oily stuff in the coolant overflow tank? If yes, HG. Do a 2.2 engine swap. Done!

The tank studs will break off if you use to much force! Grind a slot in the nut if needed to get it off. If the fuel pump bolts are rusted, changing the tank will not be fun.

Have several Subaru Cats up in the Garage, from cars that were scrapped. If you pick it up in Colorado Springs $25

Also check the starter mount studs. I forget what combination but some require you to put a helicoil in the trans as the block is not threaded on the lower hole. Not a big deal, just much easier to do with the engine out.

Yes as long as the EGR configuration matches. I've done a bunch. Love the 95 2.2 into the 96-99 Outbacks.

Might have had it flooded.

Possible I've seen it happen. You can pull the side covers to check the marks and the crank senor to see the crank gear marked tooth. I'd clear the codes and see what comes back.