-
Posts
4548 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
153
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by lmdew
-
For fun and to ensure folks had a solid Subaru I use to do many 2.5 DOHC to 2.2 swaps. Do all the maintenance needed to ensure it was a good solid Subaru ready for the new owner. Back in the 99-2004 range I'd go up to $1000 for a solid Outback that needed an engine swap. Used 2.2 $400, T-Belt and Gaskets $200, misc $400 and then all my labor. I could sell them for $2200 to $2500 and keep the beer frig full. Flash forward to 2016, I would not pay over $400 for a Subaru in need of engine or trans. The parts were a little harder to find in the yards and folks did not want to pay over $1500 for a 98-99 Outback that would last them another 10 years. I still love working on Subaru's but have stopped the Subaru Hobby for the most part. It's to hard to recycle good Subaru parts so my garage is still too full. Watch your local Craigslist, call a couple of owners and ask them to let you know when they sell their Subaru. Local demand is what will drive price.
-
The local demand and norm for used Subaru prices will determine the value. Here in CO a car with rust is a big issue and no one wants them. $500 for a 2001 with a bad trans is more than I'd pay, but hey it's your Mom. I'd rather change 3 engines than an auto trans as they are very heavy and a beast to get into the car if you are working on the ground. I"ve done several but none were fun. Who did the HG? Was it a quality job? I'd say $1800 would be on the top end of the value, but again the local market and the quality of the work will determine what people will be willing to pay.
-
When you are at home it's easy to use a bottle jack to remove the pressure on the lower through bolt on the Rear Shocks/Struts on a 2000+ Legacy Outback. However, when you are in one of of the UPAP self-serve yards that does not allow jacks in the door, how can you remove the pressure? A couple of weeks ago I pulled a set off a 2007 for another USMB member. I took the following along with my normal tool bag: 10" 4x4 2) 6 " long 2x4 Using those and a few tools from my bag (socket and prybar) I was able to unload the lower bolt enough to slide it out. Basically, just build a little tower under the lower strut to unload the pressure on the through bolt. When the bolt turns with ease, you know you've got it. Pull the nut and drive the bolt out. Then go inside and remove the two 14mm nuts. You can fit a wrench or 1/4" dirve socket in by just pushing the side panel back in a bit.
-
Glad you're back at it! I've never seen the approx 10" long rubber hose section fail. The metal tube that comes down from the gas cap does rust out. Either way, you will need to pull the filler tube back to get the rubber section out. It's a pain. The clamp at each end of the hose can rust and make it even harder. To get the filler tube to move there are the screws up at the filler and then 2 or 3 10mm bolts in the fender well under the black plastic cover. If it's been on dirt roads expect it to be full of dirt as well. Might want to have a good filler tube on hand as well or at least have him inspect it before he goes too far. Don't want to have to do the job 2 times.
-
Glad you're back at it! I've never seen the approx 10" long rubber hose section fail. The metal tube that comes down from the gas cap does rust out. Either way, you will need to pull the filler tube back to get the rubber section out. It's a pain. The clamp at each end of the hose can rust and make it even harder. To get the filler tube to move there are the screws up at the filler and then 2 or 3 10mm bolts in the fender well under the black plastic cover. If it's been on dirt roads expect it to be full of dirt as well.
-
97 obs issue
lmdew replied to HASx11's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Just make sure you do not jack the new one on the pan. If the pan is already dented change it out or fix it.