lmdew

My Kid went out and bought a new 2018 Forester for all of the safety features. I guess those adds work. What should I do to make it last 15+ years. Amsoil oil and trans fluid when it needs changing, what else? Thanks, Larry

Yep, just can do it out on the road and my drive is 30 Degrees up. Not getting it into the garage. Craigslist I believe. No time and No work space, since I switch jobs. So it goes. Nice Rust Free Outback for someone.

Well, I've sold this Outback 2 times now. First to a Co-Worker and then to a Friend. Two weeks ago, it was stolen out of her driveway. Who steals a 98 Outback with 240K on it. Yes it's a Subaru. Anyway, the police recovered it. The oil was way over filled and missing the cap. Battery dead. I charged the battery and changed the oil and filter. Put some gas in it and the 2.2 started right up.I did the 2.5 to 2.2 conversion about 5 years ago. I love those 2.2's. The transmission seems to shift into all but 1st just fine. The clutch pedal feels good and the input fork is moving. There is absolutely no transfer of power from the flywheel to the transmission. No loading of the engine when you let the clutch out with the transmission in gear. The only other time I've seen this was on a 2000 Forester and when I dropped the trans the center hub of the clutch was completely disconnected from the clutch disk. It looked like they downshifted from high speed or were rolling backward and popped the clutch. More then one Mechanic has told me they have changed Subaru clutches with the trans pulled back to the end of the long bottom studs! Is that really possible? With my change of jobs, I have limited time and limited space and the owner has limited money. Just thinking I may be able to get them back on the road in an afternoon. I don't like the idea, but I'd be willing to try. Thanks, Larry

I have good used ones, rust free from CO. $35+ shipping.

Should be the larger of the two. I've changed a few of them 2.5 to 2.2 swaps. I've only run into a large and smaller one. You could hit a local yard and look for one with an engine removed to measure to confirm.

Since you were having AWD problems, I'd just grab a used transmission and pop it in. Take Care of Mom first!

Check the coolant level in the radiator when cold. I"d pull the front timing side cover and check the condition of the Timing belt. If questionable I'd pull the timing covers so you can check the gears and water pump. How the Heat in the car? Do you feel the air temp changing?

Car Details? Year and Model? Most of the ECU have a ground wire in the connector but it's always a good idea to have the case ground as well, by bolting it up.

3 steps as it goes in. When you mount the trans, if the TC is all the way back, the flex plate bolts will pull the TC about a 1/8" forward.

Learn something new each day!

Check and see if the rear drive shaft is spinning when the front wheels are but the rears are not. I've seen where one of the rear axles had popped out about a 1/2" and the rear drive shaft power was not going anywhere. Installed the rear half shaft into the rear differential properly and problem solved. Pretty quick check at the rear diff, just make sure both half shafts are fully inserted.

You might pull the timing belt and allow the valves to close by turning the cam. The piston/rod should move out of the way. Have you tried counter clockwise?

Yes they will do that. Just make sure you get the bolt started by hand so it's not cross threaded and the sensor points back into the lower section of the block. It retards your timing so low power and poor gas mileage.

1/2" breaker bar, try rotating it in both directions. If that does not work, pull the oil pan and push the broken rod out of the way.

With the hubs you can not verify the bearing is good or not until it's installed and you take it for a drive. Really bad ones are easy to spot, but other than that it's a roll of the dice.

What side do you need? I may have one. If you get one from Car-part.com go for a rust free state.

Yes and I'm sure there are plenty of them in the self serve yards in Denver. Pull the door triangle trim - forward on the door. It pops off, gently pry it off close to the pins. A painters 3 in 1 tool works great. Remove the Door panel Remove the electrical connector Remove the 3 screws holding the mirror.

W What's wrong? Lots of good Subaru help in OR.

Is the starter clicking? Do the headlights work when the starter does Not? Along with what the others have said the starter main contacts are prone to wear. When the main contacts within the starter are not good, no power is getting to the starter motor. When it is NOT working, Read voltage under load - key in the start position at: Battery + to ground Starter + to ground Starter Motor + to ground Make sure all the grounds are clean and tight. One fellow had a pitted ground at the rear engine negative ground wire and his car would not charge. Fixed the ground and it was good as new. He had put in 3 alternators.

www.car-part.com I've had engine shipped for $200 or so half way across the US.

Thanks

We live in CO so it more of a leak I would think. Beside replacing the assembly, anyone have luck with a good fix?

Yep, HG can do that. What's the Temp gauge doing? You can also check for Exhaust Gases in the coolant with a test Kit. Many time the HG will not leak until the engine is up to temp and under load.

Have 4 spare driver side A-arms. Shipped from CO.

PM you