lmdew

Yep, I missed he was on High Speed. I have some spare fans. $20 shipped

The resistor pack is about an 1" square and about 2" long. There is a electrical connector and 2 screws that you will see on the air ducting under the glove box. Remove the connector and the screws pull it out. Put the new one in. The link shows a nice picture on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Wells-JA1230-Blower-Motor-Resistor/dp/B000EQO07O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1532083883&sr=8-3&keywords=Subaru+Impreza+fan+resistor

There is a resistor pack in the air box ducting below the passenger glove box. It's most likely going open, no voltage to the fan. Then the circuit closes providing power again. Easy change 2 screws and a plug.

You have to get all of the old stuff out. I use my 5 & 1 Paint tool and then a rasp to clean out the old stuff. It's a bit of a pain on your back but that's what it takes. The shoulder bolt will pull tight against the front flange. Spring is on the back side of the rear flange.

Yep, find a good Independent Subaru shop (like GD's) and establish a relationship with them. You and your Subaru will be happy.

Normal to have a little valve ticking as the lifters pump back up if it has the hyd lifters. It can last a week or two. I love the 2.2 engines so easy to work on and very few issues if taken care of.

I know a fellow on near Honolulu that has a great 2.2 for you to do the Swap with. Much less than doing all of the engine work to fix the HG on the DOHC engine.

I've been very happy with Amsoil.

Yes, sounds like someone drove the pin in when the half shaft was 180 out. The other option is to pop out the half shaft with the stub axle attached. It's held in with a circle clip. Remove the strut to knucle bolts and lower ball joint then use the weight of the hub as a slide hammer and the stub axle should come out.

Check all the ground connections and check your shift cable, which goes to the trans selector on the right side of the transmission.

I got one, it fit well. No heat shield but it works.

Better over in Vehicle for Sale

https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/2008-subaru-forester-awd-1/6630804767.html Bit of hail damage

https://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/d/2006-subaru-forester/6630780270.html

On a warm day, pull all the plastic trim on the inside around the headliner. Remove the headliner and then you will have access to the screws from the inside. Drill the head off and punch them through or cut them with a die grinder on the inside.

Here you go. The H6 engine uses a chain instead of a timing belt. https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/2003-subaru-outback-h6-30-v6/6624231036.html I can check it out if you like. Larry

Thanks, it's gone

Drain > Fill Pull the radiator trans coolant line, I use plastic tubing to run both ends into a gallon jug. Start the Subaru, it will pump out the old nasty trans fluid. When you have about 3/4 of a gallon turn off the engine, empty the jug, fill the trans with another gallon of fluid > Repeat until the fluid going into the jug is clean. It usually takes about 3 gallons. I'm sure it will be much better, then if you really want to improve your trans switch to Amsoil trans fluid. It made a world of difference on my 2002 Impreza with 230K on it.

The plastic air dam under the engine, any negatives to removing it completely?

Check out Load Pro. It lets you quickly check for voltage drops at the connector. I've had a few relays go bad. Could swap it out as you said.

You have to drill and put in the rivnut for the bolt.

Left Cam and Crank Sprockets are a matched set. Small trigger teeth on the Crank had more triggers on the cam.

Move or Send your Subaru's to me in Colorado.

Yep 1+

Yep, somethings are just not worth doing in the rust belt.