lmdew

Hard to say, once someone cut into the wires. You'd need an O-scope to read out the cam sensor as it outputs a signal. They hardwired the cam sensor into the harness? You can check the Timing Belt by pulling both side covers and the crank sensor and looking down the hole to make sure the crank mark lines up.

Transmission Drain and Flush today made significant improvements on the transmission torque bind. I always pull the radiator trans coolant hose and let the trans pump out a gallon at a time after I drain and fill the transmission. After 3 gallons the flush is complete and trans serviced.

I pulled the dash gauge cluster apart and found the FWD, ABS, LO and Hold bulbs missing from the circuit board. Why do people do it. Fix it Right or let people know there is a fault!

I put the FWD fuse in today, no FWD light, but the speedometer of the cluster is out as well. The AT Temp light is not flashing after starting the car. More digging.

I picked up an 05 Impreza, low mileage 60K. The Speedo does not work and it looks like the milage readout may have burnt out. I'm thinking a new gauge cluster. - The Timing belt has not been replaced, it's low mileage but old. I think it the idler bearings and seals should be changed. I'm also a fan if it's not broken don't fix it! Your thoughts? - Auto trans had a bit of torque bind, by feel. Not flashing trans temp light on start. The car did sit for years, so I hope the clutches were just drided out and it will free up with some mileage and a flush/TransX treatment. What do you think?

Either should work. If the pan is dropped use the correct sealer when you put it back on. If you drop the trans, make sure you do not dent the pan. Even a small dent in the pan can block the fluid pickup inside the trans. Use a large/wide block of wood to protect the pan from the jack.

Make sure the throttle plate is all the way closed. I'd get the airbox and all hoses back on/connected.

Check the hood emissions hose chart. It may have it. Looks like there is enough material there that you could go to ACE Hardware and get a brass fitting that is a barb on one side and and pipe thread on the other. Get the correct tap and thread it.

I'd ask him to hook up his MAXISYS scanner and check to see what is happening.

If the old one does not have the external spin-on filter but the new one does, correct it will not work.

The trans chart I have did not find the TZ1A2ZJEAA, what did it come out of? Quick google search found this: 31000AD830 Genuine Subaru Trans AY/TZ1A2ZJEAA - Subaru … This part fits 1999-2001 Subaru Impreza, 1999 Subaru Legacy, 1999 Subaru Outback. Affordable, reliable and built to last, Subaru part # 31000AD830 Trans AY/TZ1A2ZJEAA stands out as the smart option. SubaruPartsDeal.com

I have not been into the 2005 Forester doors, but I could hit the yard and pull one open. Since it's in both directions, it sounds like the window regulator hardware. A good visual inspection will most likely tell you much. Let me know if you want me to open one up at the yard. You-Tube has a few replacement videos. Amazon has the complete part $60 Email sent with links.

Movie looks like the cable is correct. Not much latch info as the hood loop has to press the hook of the latch down to set the hood latch. Was it in an accident? You can take a screwdriver shaft and press down the latch to make sure it springs over center and locks. If that works, something is out of alignment.

Just look at the teeth on the crank sprocket if they are different, both need to be changed.

A good Transmission shop may be able to diagnose the problem further. Worth a try. If you need the sensor and wiring harness, I'd hit a self-serve junk yard and pull them. Swap them in and go.

A friend has a 99 Forester and he wants to change the front hub bearings. The NAPA with a machine shop closed. No hydraulic press available. What Hub Tamer do you like? Anyone close to Colorado Springs, Colorado with one? Thanks, Larry

Did you get it going?

Does not look like a Subaru part.

Unhook the battery for 30 minutes or so. If the fault is still present when you turn the key back on it will set again. Can't read the code?

So when it starts and runs, how long are you running it? I take it very short since there is no coolant as the radiator is out? Radiator in, filled with coolant, and no start, is that the case? www.car-part.com will let you search for an engine. If it was running well before the belt broke, I would not give up on the engine yet. What caused the belt to break?

The bulb sockets also. The connections sometimes have very high resistance/burned contacts.

I picked up an automatic 99 Forester 189K. Some banging when shifting from Park to Rev and Rev to Drive. The FWD mode did not change the symptoms. Inspection of the driveshaft and rear diff. did not show excessive play. It does have aftermarket front halfshafts. When I get to it, those will be replaced with Subaru parts and I'll check the front diff play.

Good Rust free ones from a state like Colorado...... Reboot the Subaru axle and you are good to go. www.car-part.com

Put a spare plug on a wire and see if you have spark. good spark, put a little gas in the intake.

Have you put it into FWD with the fuse to see what changes?