lmdew

Also check the Rear Diff. If one of the axle stub shafts popped out a bit, all of the power is going no where. I've had it happen more than once. The hardest part of the clutch pack is getting all of the old gasket material off the tail shaft flange. The C-Duty wire is very short as well. Don't pull off the connector.

Are you putting in Fluid in on the Drivers side behind the Starter? The dipstick/fill tube is kind of hidden. If you fill the passenger side towards the front of the Trans, you filled the FWD Diff with trans fluid. Drain it and refill with gear lube. You are not the first to make this mistake.

As long as the link is there it doesn't make much difference what it is. I'm sure the newer styles would work. Same length side to side and strong.

95 2.2 swap. Cheaper and will last a lifetime.

Hit a you pull and pay and grab the complete unit. Have to drop the headliner. www.car-part.com

So you replaced the motor and left the wiper arms on the shaft. The easy way, I'd remove the wiper arms. 14mm nut. Then turn on the wiper motor and watch the arm shaft. It should be normal. Turn off the wipers and then shut down the car. The arms can be installed in the park positon.

The panels do swap for the most part. There are some year to year differences on the plugs on the rear of the gauge cluster. I've changed lots of panels in the 95-2002 range sometimes because a speedometer failed or the clock was not working... If you have a different panel that is not an indication someone did something wrong.

Pull your car about 4 feet away from f flat wall and straight ahead. Turn on the lights and start cranking the two adjusters. You will see the beam move. As you move the left to right adjuster to move the light beam in or out it will also adjust the vertical some due to the design. Inner lower adjuster is for in and out. Top adjuster is for up and down. As you move one it does affect the other some.

I've got 3 or 4 Subaru nice Colorado Cats. $40 + shipping

There is debate on when the 2.2 started to be interference engines. You should be OK. Get a new kit, put it on and fire it up. When I do timing belts, I also do: - Reseal of the Oil pump and locktite the oil pump rear plate screws - New Cam and Crank Seals - New pullys - Check the Water pump, if questionable change it

The Starter contacts wear. You can replace just the copper contacts if you want. Or hit the local You Pull and Pay and grab a Subaru starter.

I ordered the A/B. We'll see how they are.

Hit you pull and pay. Pull the complete intake.

I've had off and on fuel smell from the engine for a few months. I've checked all the fuel hoses. The 2" on Left side was leaking a bit so I replace it. I also change out the Left side fuel injectors while I had the rail off with some used ones I had. That helped some but I still get fuel smell. I have also changed out the fuel filler pipe which was rusted. I'm thinking new injector o-rings. I looked at the local Subaru Deal and the 8 o-rings are over $90. Crazy. I checked Rock Auto and found these: Anyone have experience with them? BECK/ARNLEY 1580893 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info Kit $2.81 Add to Cart GB REMANUFACTURING 8037 Fuel Injector Seal Kit; Services one injector, includes top & bottom seals. Info $4.50

I've done a few Auto Trans removals and Installs. The Negative Ground bracket makes a great plate to keep the Trans TC fully seated. During removal: - Remove the Negative Ground Lead - When you have the trans moved back a 1/2" or so take the ground bracket and bolt it to the passenger side upper Trans/Engine Mount. You can use the bolt that was there and one of the nuts from the lower studs - The Ground Bracket 2" long or so will hold the TC in the trans Install in reverse order

Subaru or NGK Wires and NGK copper core plug highly recommended.

If you need some Crank Sensors, I can ship 2 used one from CO. $10 shipped. Larry

Fuel pumps can fail to produce proper fuel pressure. Pull the air box off the throttle body. Pour a cap full of gas into the intake. Put the air box back on and see if it starts. If it starts and runs for a bit your fuel pump is most likely going out. I just had this happen on a friends 98 Outback with a 2.2 installed. I put a Subaru pump in the tank for her. It was a used pump I had in the garage. It worked fine for a few months and then had the same symptoms as your's. I pulled the pump and put a second Subaru used pump in that I had. The car is running fine. I tested the first pump outside the tank. It did not sound good! Pump ran for a bit and then slowed down and stopped. I'm sure if I had an Amp gauge on it I would have seen the current draw go way up. Get a used Subaru Pump from the yard. They are much better than the Auto Parts Store pumps. Since you are in the rust belt, soak the 8mm nuts/studs with PB Blaster before you try to remove the old pump. A little WD-40 on the hoses makes them much easier to get on and off the pump.

Have you cleaned the IAC? A good start is some Seafoam down the 1" hose going to the IAC. Let it sit 20 minutes or so and then start it up. Expect lots of white smoke.

Most likely the neutral switch on the transmission is bad. You can ohm them out up on top the trans. One small plug is for reverse the other is for neutral. Open/closed switches as you shift. If the ECU does not know the trans is in N the Revs will be high.

Do it yourself so you know it's right or find a good independent shop and go there for everything. 100+ to what idosubaru said!

Nice glad it all worked out. Thanks for the update.

Look at your rear Trans Mount and engine mounts.

Shifting has continued to improve. Great simple upgrade to your Auto Trans.

Put a Subaru Thermostat in it. While you have the coolant drained you could put a garden hose in the upper radiator hose and check the flow out of the radiator lower hose to make sure the radiator is not plugged.