lmdew

I've always pulled the radiator trans cooler return line and put it into a gallon jug. Fill the trans Start the Car, let it pump a 1/2 gallon out Stop the car, refill the trans and empty the jug Repeat until clean fluid is coming out. Pretty simple and works well. Yes, check the line and make sure it's clamped on well. Check the trans fluid level, COLD then HOT after a good drive.

My 2000 OBS Auto Trans with 180K on it always downshifted very firmly. I didn't mind but the better half didn't like it. Well, with Amsoil and a Wix filter installed it shifts almost without notice. Very nice.

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/#inbox/160cd614831011bc?projector=1 Pretty cool.

Yes way to early for the clutch or trans to be needed unless the PO did not know how to drive a 5sp.

OK, just saw it completely removed or gone in your video. If the boot was installed, I don't know how the fork wold come up against the trans housing at the boot keeps it pretty well centered.

Make sure you install the dust boot. It will prevent the fork from hitting the trans housing!

Since you are in so far, I'd replace the fork and get a new dust boot for the trans. When you put the new fork in put a dab of grease on the pivot point. With the sleeve and new throughout bearing you should be good to go. Have you resealed the air oil breather plate on the back of the block already? If not I'd do that as well.

If you end up needing good used hubs, - RUST FREE Colorado hubs let me know. $20 each + shipping. They may need the ball joint installed, but the pinch bolts are good.

I helped a fellow fix something close to this. It turned out to be the main battery ground at the transmission to engine starter upper bolt attach point. It was loose, burned and pitted.

Just thought I'd check and see which oil filter removal tools you are liking for the newer Subaru's where the filter is up through a hole in the exhaust manifold. Pliers do not work, so I'm going to get one of the socket type tools. Which one do you like?

Sweet another Subaru back on the road! Glad it all worked out.

IAC's sent. Larry

Nice link. Happy Holidays!

Happy Holidays to all! Make your USMB donation yet this year? I know I have to make mine. Off to donate before the elves get up.

Working when pulled. I can send a couple of them if you want. I also have the gaskets. You have to be careful with the coolant lines or replace them when you remove the IAC. As long as you break them free before removing.

All of the lights you listed get their ground through the radio harness.

I have plenty of spare IAC's. $10 and $15 for shipping.

Yep, I usually find it way less money and faster to swap in a used trans. Yes it is in unknown condition but most yards have 30 day or longer exchange. While the trans is out: Seal the rear engine breather plate Surface the flywheel. New clutch kit Check or change the clutch fork.

The belt also drive the Power Steering Pump. How's it? Also check all if the battery connections. Clean and tight?

Nice a + being from WI way back when.

Ordered my Amsoil today.

I have a 5sp shifter and center counsel panel as well as the rear trans cross mount and trans mount. $30 + shipping from 80919 Larry Just recycled the brake box last week.

Do you have the diameter? It should be the smaller of the two I believe. A few months ago I know I had one, but I've been cleaning the garage.

Yep, sometimes they are rusted in. I have some drum hubs listed as well. A little bearing noise but not to bad.

I've had this happen on about 4 manual trans Subaru's. The center viscous coupling will transfer light power, but when power goes to the rear with a disconnected half shaft it goes no where. I do have good half shafts, $20 + Shipping from CO. These are used stock Subaru axles with good used boots. You can pull the strut and hub bolts if there are not frozen and then pull the hub away from the car. Once the inner side is free you can remove the axle from hub.