lmdew

Yep, I do it all the time. Put it on the Dolly Jack one rear tire Trans in neutral Brake off 12mm box end wrench and a large straight slot screwdriver. Put the SD through the u-joint to hold the drive shaft while you loosen it. Pull the bolts nuts and washer out. Before you pull the last one, scratch the drive shaft and rear diff so you can put the driveshaft back on in the same position. The driveshaft will just lay in the tunnel and ride free against the rear diff. Bolt it back up before you pull it off the dolly.

I was going to offer to fly over hand help you out. Larry

Yep, when you put the fuse in you should get the FWD light on the dash. The C-Duty coil is most likely shot. You can change it if you drop the trans extension shaft. Search Torque Bind, you will find lots of good pictures and info.

Stuck or bent valve, put a dollar bill up to the exhaust tail pipe. If it sucks back against the pipe when running you have an open exhaust valve. Stuck or bent.

MAF Sensor

Yep, 2.2. Keep the fluids full, change oil every 3K other fluids every 2 years or as needed.

Here you go. http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/5971509626.html

My Last 98 OBS had 330K on it and was still going strong when I sold it. Current 2000 OBS has 245K and runs great. Easy to maintain.

Lots of good options for under 3K. Pick up a 93-2000 Impreza OBS, manual trans and put some Forester struts on it for a nice lift and you have a great Subaru that will go just about anywhere. No need for a Turbo, more work and less reliability. IMHO

Thanks, yep that's what I thought. Used engine will be installed and all the other maintenance need done. The price was right so no worries. Thanks, Larry

I picked up a 2000 Forester. The person I got it from said she was running down the expressway and it started running rough. She pulled over and it quit. She could not get it started so she had it towed home. In her driveway, I could not rotate the engine forward, but it would rotate CCW looking at the engine. I pulled the timing covers - Timing is correct After rotating it backwards, I could rotate it CW but then it locked. It sounded like something hit at the back of the block Coil plugged in, and it tries to start That's where I left it, as the oil was very low and the coolant was way down. I was out of time for a few weeks. Work got in the way. 164K, Auto Trans The plan: 1) Drain what oil is there and check it for metal 2) Service the oil and coolant and see if it runs 3) Pull the engine if necessary Anyone ever have a flex plate fail and lock up an engine?

Step one, get a wire brush and clean the front face of the gears so you can see the actual timing mark "I" Then make sure it's timed correctly. If you have spark, put a cap of fuel in the intake and see if it starts.

No bent valves it's a non interference engine. Make sure the Cam and Crank Sensor plugs hooked up.

It would help to know year and motor you have in it. If you broke the timing belt while running, you may have bent valves!

Sounds like you did everything you could to get it back together correctly. I think you will have to measure the backlash on the gears to set the clearance. Or Throw a used trans in it and call it good and a learning experience.

A fellow I helped a few months ago had the same problem going on. After 2 new Parts store Alt and trying 2 used Subaru Alt's he finally stopped by. I found the main ground wire - Battery to Engine Block was loose. The cable and bracket were both badly pitted. I had a spare set of Subaru Battery Cables, so I changed them out. 14.3 Volts out of the Alt. He was a happy man.

All of that is easy stuff. Just get replacement parts and bolt them on. www.car-part.com

Great Deal! Yes loud roaring sound can be wheel bearings. There may be no free play in the wheel but they can still be bad. Check the hub after a trip and see if one is hotter than the rest. If you pull the hub you can usually feel the roughness in the bearing when turning it by hand. The neutral switch if most likely out on the trans. The computer does not know when the clutch is in or out. Easy to check.

If a cylinder is not firing, it will cause low power, usually not a knock. Rod bearing starting to go out, it sounds like.

The lower studs are not bolts but a nut on a stud. Same for the lower starter nut and stud. If you did by chance break off the head of the bolt, no problem, just pull the engine and then put a vise grips on what is left of the bolt and unscrew it once the engine is out.

The passenger side cam is off the lobes when the timing belt is being put on so yes it's easy to turn by hand. That's normal. You can put a little fuel in the intake and see if it fires and runs for a short period of time. Double check the cam and crank sensor plugs. You did use the tick mark on the back of the crank gear to line up the crank; correct?

If you seat has airbags built in the Yards may not sell the seats. I know the You Pull and Pay in Colorado Springs, CO will not sell seats with airbags in them anymore, even if you are not going to use the airbags in the car you are bolting the seats into.

Have the flywheel surfaced and while it's off reseal the rear breather plate on the back of the block. If it's the plastic one, the Subaru metal replacements are under $20. Gray RTV is the sealant to use when you put the plate back on.

If you can hear it lock and unlock with the remote and the key also turns fully each way the rod going to the lock is most likely off. The rear panel will pop off at the top. There are about 10 of the push in plastic pins that will pop out of the hole if you pull it straight back. The panel will not come all the way off as there are also retainers on the bottom lip of the panel. You should be able able to pull it back far enough to see the lock.

The 06 had a D shaped top hat and a tapered spring. The mounting studs were the same spacing. Seems too work great. Larry