lmdew

I forget if you ground it I think it goes full hot. You can check the resistance and see what it does with increase of temperature.

I've had good luck with the repair kits.

Always good to to the yard and try it on a car there. Most of them have a little press to release tab.

Most likely the rear separator plate. It's easy once you have the engine out. Unless there is clear damage to the rear main, leave it alone. The separator plate, clean reseal and locktite the screws. You should have the aluminum separator plate.

Happy to bring a rust free Colorado Subaru back to WI for you. I've done half a dozen over the years for family and friends. Enjoy the new to you Subaru,

A loss for Portland, OR Subaru Owners for sure! Enjoy the next phase of life. Thanks for all the answers and information you provided on USMB!

Disabled! Thanks.

I could jump on a flight and come out! Best of luck! I've had a few that ran fine with a new belt. I then went in and did a full t-belt, cam and crank seals, idlers.

Pretty easy to put a new belt on. Turn it over by hand to make sure it's not binding and then start it up. If it has bent valves it will not be running like a good Subaru should. Bent valves can be taken care of, but it's a bit more work to pull the heads. I'd pull the engine at that point.

Yep, that will most likely be the solution.

Spring is there and there is slack in the cable. Thanks

Betterhalf was driving, and said the Forester was acting strange. I got in and it had a huge amount of drag as I let out the clutch. Pulled off the expressway and popped the hood. Yep the hillholder was not releasing. No tools other than the Subaru kit in the rear. I was able to get the hillholder cable retaining clip off the bracket and open the hillholder completely. Problem solved and we made it home 80 miles. I may just leave it disabled if I can not get it working properly.

Well I was going to get it Friday. Had cash in hand and then the Dealer's Sales person said the owner had already committed to trading in the car on the new one. Deal Stinks! $500 for a 2008 with 120K on it, but they told her it needed about $10K for a new engine. I'd tell them to keep the NEW Subaru!

I hate when you can't service normal wear parts! Throw away life.

Dealer said they needed a new engine. I might be able to pick it up. Used engine...

Best option is to go to a yard and pull a door apart there. The top rub pads can usually be adjusted but they push the glass out. You may create wind noise. A good inspection is the place to start.

Yes, that's what I thought. It must be that the passenger side cam gear failed. Owner runs by my place sometimes so I hope to hear what the failure was at some point. If so, I'll update the post.

I stopped to help someone on the road today. The car would not start. I pulled the codes - 08 Outback PO340 Cam Sensor. When I pulled the driver's side small timing cover there was over a foot of slack in the timing belt before it stopped. They had the HG's done a few months ago. That much slack, I would think the passenger side cam had failed. GD - those plastic gears you've talked about?

Pull the access covers and soak the studs with PB Blaster. That way they will be ready to go when you want to pull them. Fill the tank and go by mileage!

There are two sensors/resistors one on each side of the tank due to the driveshaft hump. The resistors can become iffy. There is Fuel Sensor cleaner you can add to the tank. If you pull the sensors out, make sure you do not snap the 8mm studs on the tank. If the car has rust issues, I'd just leave it as is.

Shwan is in your area, but I don't know that he is taking on any work. Super Rupair www.superrupair.com 1309 Yarmouth Ave, Boulder, CO 80304 (303) 442-6508 Very good.

GD what is you stop limit on Subaru years cars? I told my brother nothing newer than 2006. Thanks

www.car-part.com

They are in the engine compartment fuse box.

New hose and brake fluid. Bleed it wall after the hose change.