lmdew

Other than you are in the rust belt. I always pick a car that has been hit hard, at least that way you know it was on the road and driving. Then check mileage and condition. Finally, pull the drain plug and put your finger in the hole to check for bad stuff in the pan. The trans will be drained but there is always some still in there. The auto trans is very heavy. Cleaning the old gasket material off the trans is a pain with it still installed in the car. Are you going to swap the complete transmission?

You can just jump the pins to Power and ground. If you have an old Subaru connector you can pull the sockets out of that is idea. Should click when powered.

Did you check the solenoid operation jumping the pins to power and ground? How's the harness look?

Thanks. I put it on Marketplace, we'll see if it sells. I'm also watching for an engine. No Rush.

Pulled the VVT solenoid plugs today. It started up and ran, but good knock. Drained the oil and cut the filter open, it was full of metal debris. Looks like a engine change. So it goes. I don't know how is sounded so good when they first started it up. That's life.

The PO said the 99 Forester Subaru Keyless Entry/Security System was giving her some problems. I had it auto lock the door on me one time, so I removed it. I did find a wire pulled out of the connector, so that may have been the issue. Anyway, everything works except the lock/unlock of the drivers door with the manual switch on the arm rest. I have not dug into it but if you have fixed this, please let me know. If anyone wants the old removed system, make me an offer. Wiring, mounting bracket, motion sensor, ignition kill switch and siren.

Have to open up the wire harness and repair the wires. If you pull up the FSM you may be able to see what components the harness is going to. What codes do you have?

Did you record the TCU Part Number information? If you end up needing one, I may be able to help.

Grab a TCU from the yard, you can always take it back for credit.

A good Trans Shop will be able to scan the trans a bit deeper than the flashing light. They should be able to identify the fault/s. Once they do that, you can always take that information and do the repair yourself.

So if I disconnect, the VVT solenoid valve connector and run it that way, it would stay in the start idle position? I have not found a good explanation of the VVT system. Thanks

Contact the seller of the CAT and see what they have to say.

I have used Subaru Half-Shafts I can install, when I get to it. Automatic trans is working for me know as no clutch for me for a few months.

190K Automatic Transmission. Runs well, new to me. Slight clicking FWD or REV when starting out mostly. I did put it up on a lift the other day. Driveshaft u-joints look OK. No noticeable movement. The Driveshaft does have 10 Degrees of rotation. The FWD Half-shafts are aftermarket, so I would think they may be the source. They feel tight. Rear Half-Shafts are good and Subaru.

Doctor said it should heal without surgery. Sweet! Helped a fellow with a 2003 Legacy Outback get it on the road today. The Trans was down 3 qts. Would move in reverse but not FWD. Gear Ratio error codes for 1 - 4. Check your fluids!!!

Thanks, it will set for a bit as I fractured my knee cap. That's life.

I picked up a 08 Outback, Auto Trans, 153K on it. PO said it did not run in the add, Dead. Well I got there and he said a friend came over the night before and they jumped it and it started. While I was there, he started it and it sounded like a great running Subaru. I bought it. He was very low on gas, that was my first stop. Well a mile or so down the road, the engine starts running real rough. So do I stop for gas or just head home. I headed home as it was only 5 miles. Well as I started up a slight grade, it died. Called a friend and we got a 1/4 tank in it. It tried to start but no go. We towed it around the corner to a side street and I had a tow truck come and get it. The oil is very dirty! That will be my first item. I'll test the VVT componets and pull them if needed to clean the screen. I hope an oil change takes care of things. May be a bit of Seafoam.

The Better Halfs 06 Forester started dripping oil on the floor. I took a look and Bank 2 VVT was full of oil. A quick trip to the car wash and some Simple Green cleaned it up. After a day or two of short drives, I could see the Oil Pressure Switch for the VVT was wet. I cleaned it with brake cleaner, pulled it and cleaned it up a bit more. I reinstalled It and after a few days it still looks dry. An extra turn on the pipe threads most likely took care of it.

Your experience with 2000 - 2007 JDM engines. Thanks

My 2005 Impreza takes a few seconds for the cruise to stop flashing after I clear the code. If you have a reader that will clear the code, it's pretty easy to keep the cruise working when you like. Best to eliminate the problem, but clearing the code should restore the cruise for a bit anyway.

Check the coolant level in the radiator, fill as needed. Then pressurize the system, hand pump or let it run and see where it's dripping from. I've had water pumps leak and run back along the oil pan lip. That's a big leak, should be pretty easy to find.

Sorry, axle shaft has the circle clip which is spring loaded. Once the axle shaft is out, you can rotate the inner race to remove all the bearings and disassemble the outter joint. The Inner CV Joint has the snap ring on the axle. The joint slides apart once you have removed the circle clip at the rear of the CV joint, just inside the boot.

With the axle out, I put it on a 2x4 and step on the axle shaft. With the boot pulled back or cut off, I put another 2x4 against the outer CV and hit the 2x4 with a BFH. Some of them have a snap ring instead of the circle clip. For those, you have to rotate the inner rack so you can remove one ball bearing at a time. Once all of them are out, you can pull the shaft back and remove the snap ring and inner race.

Just had to look a little deeper in the drawers in the garage. Found a good one. I went to they yard on Monday, but every Subaru had the engine pulled, Alt and all. I found a couple but the bearings were a bit loud. Fixed and back on the road! Sweet.

Alternator Part Number: 23700AA3708A $ 580.92