lmdew

How much movement do you get out of the fork? The slave cyl should be able to be put back together as it's just a seal cup. You will then have to bleed it. If you clipped the throw out bearing to the fork, there's really no where for it to go.

Bad Alt causing the battery light. Bad Main Ground wire, burnt contacts at the engine ground point. Fixed, Happy Subaru Owner. Thanks Gary! Larry

Yes t he Battery icon goes away with the Alt disconnected. Trying another one! No security stuff. Thanks, Larry

A fellow in town has a 95 Legacy, Auto. I gave him an Alt to fix his charging problem, it was used but good as far as I know. Gave him another used one, same thing. He stopped over today, good battery voltage 13 volts. I changed a the alt again, no luck. When the car is started battery voltage goes down to 12.5 volts and 12.3 with the light on. Fuses look good, connections clean. Then I noticed the battery light on the dash is on when the key is off. I have never seen this before. Help! Thanks, Larry

I have two sets of COMTEC H/G for the 2.5 block and 2.2 heads if you need them. I was going to build a high compression motor but have not done it. The 98 Impreza OBS I picked up for my Daughter with a thrown rod took 3 engines to get a good on. You never know with used engines, but over the years and 40+ junk yard engines I've only had 2 that did not work out. Larry

I have one I could send you. Don't fail often. Is your's bolted to the fuel rail? $15 shipped.

Good covers and no leaks keep things nice and clean and rust free.

You should be able to drill just the bolt and easyout it. Or buy reverse drills and it might back it out as you drill. Larry

Much easier to leave the trans in the car! Make sure you keep the TC fully seated in the trans and push it away from the flex plate once all 4 bolts are removed. It will move back about an 1/8" You will have to jack the trans about an 1" and 1/2 to allow the flex plate to clear the cross member. Don't jack on the pan as it will dent.

Yes, your flex plate will bolt right up. The biggest thing is to have a matching EGR. If your current engine has an EGR you need an EGR on the new engine. There are some work around's but since you bought the engine, I'm pretty sure you ensured they should match. Reseal the rear breather plate while the flywheel/flex plate are off with Gray RTV. A good used 95-98 2.2 engine would be a good option.

Nothing special about Subaru Pans. If they are the same shape and have the same number of bolts holding them on you are good to go. They are just sealed to the trans. It's something other than RTV but Gray RTV works well. NO Gasket.

Have a nice rust free CO $25+ shipping from 80919

www.car-part.com check for a yard engine. Your son will still learn a bunch from the engine replacement. There are a bunch of USMB members that rebuild engines full time. I work on older stuff 96-99 Outbacks were I can find a good used 2.2 for $300 and drop it in with new seals, timing belt... for under $500.

You'll need the ERG or it will throw codes, if you other car had an EGR. Best bet on the wiring would be to go to the yard and pull off a good intake and take a look at the wires. Basically down the middle of the intake tied to the fuel tubes but it's very tight under there.

Most likely. You can check and clean the sensor. Sometimes they are full of crud. Wire brush or sotchbrite the sensor and see if it changes.

Wasn't trying to be rude. But traveling through IL often for work I just don't get the thought process of a lot of IL drivers.

Or even an easier idea, watch for a good set of KYB Struts in a self server yard and pull the complete strut. $20 each is what I pay for them. Bolt them right in.

Don't drive 85 in a 55 MPH speed limit like all the other IL folks. Forester's are not as fuel efficient as other models due the the higher frontal area.

Nope, if you don't want it snip the belt. It's AC only. It is recommended to run the AC every month or so to keep the o-rings lubricated and system working. If you have not done that for years, it won't make any difference now. Not much of any MPG change as it's just rotating a belt when the AC is off. No load on the engine.

This is what I did. Ran fine, no codes. I would 'think' you could put a hole in the intake - after the air filter - put in one of those plastic hose barbs w/a rubber grommet sized to fit the hole, and run a line to the EGR hard line that normally goes to the head

The alignment pins are often corroded into the trans. I will require you to pry the engine and trans apart. Go easy, start with a thing screwdriver driven between the engine and trans. Work up to a pry bar. Some folks like to drive the pins forward, the passenger side will come out the drivers side will hit the engine block but you can move it half way out of the trans.

No the original one will work fine.

Yes, replace the radiator is the best option. You could take it to a radiator shop, they may be able to stop the leak by crimping the metal clamp a little more and pressure testing it. There is a rubber gasket between the plastic tank and the core. I would think you could order a radiator online.

I've pulled 20+ engines from the you pull yards. Look for: - Car hit hard, you know it was going down the road - Car is in other wise good shape, you know the owner took care of it - Oil, pull the pan plug, the cleaner the oil the better. Put you finger in the drain hole and check the bottom of the pan for metal inside - Engine turns over by hand and compression feels good on all cylinders - Pull a plug or two, good clean burning - Coolant looks good If it passes all those checks pull it. Before you install it: - Reseal the rear breather plate - New Plugs (NGK) and valve cover gaskets - Reseal the Oil Pump and locktite on the rear cover screws - New Subaru Cam and Crank Seals - New Timing belt kit - Make sure the thermostat is a Subaru one and the gasket is good

Head to the yard and clip a good connector and then splice it in. Easy.