lmdew

I just tossed several rust free Colorado Springs. I have more $5 + shipping. Larry

Subaru are like lego's. Lot's of parts will bolt right on other Subaru's: Brakes Struts Seats A good used 96-99 Outback with the DOHC engine that the Head Gaskets have went out is a great platform and will last a long time.

Drop in a good used 2.2, better and cheaper long lasting option.

Drop a used 2.2 into this one and for less than $2000 you can have a great car that will last for years. http://rockies.craigslist.org/cto/5828064499.html

Let me know what you're looking for. I fix Subaru's for fun. 96-99 DOHC engines have Head Gasket issues. When I find one with a bad engine, I drop a 96-98 2.2 engine in it. Much better engine and only a small loss in power. Larry

It's easy to cross thread the hood bolts if the hinge is not lined up. Leave all the bolts lose and start them by hand. I'd pull the hood off and try the standard tap first. There is not much depth in there so take it easy.

How worn were your old shoes? I have had new shoes that were two thick. Is the adjuster screwed all the way in? If your old shoes have over a 1/8" pad on them, I'd use them. Remember it's only a parking Brake.

Intake Air Temp sensor is right on the front face of the intake air box to the passenger side of the throttle body. Rock Auto.com Amazon.com www.heubergermotors.com/parts/index.htm 25% off if you order online. I use them cause they are close to me but they do ship.

I've towed lots on the dolly. Drop the 4 driveshaft bolts at the rear diff and head down the road. Larry

Yep, works great. I've used a spare Brake vacuum line, just make sure the check valve allows the EGR to pull air. Ace Hardware, Plastic hose barb Tee with a brass hose barb reducer screwed into it. Works Great

Yep, I did the same thing years ago. I love the ability to quickly bleed and flush the brake system. I use Quick disconnect air fittings on my. They seal fluid as well. Nice Post.

I've pulled them together, its a pain. Auto's are really bad.

I don't think the 99 Legacy has the plug built in. I just added a hitch to the better half's 2006 Forester and it had the pigtail on the passenger side in the floor. Easy. I used http://www.etrailer.com/ for the Drawtight hitch and wiring. Easy and Fast and a price that could not be beat. Older Legacy's I've seen the tail lights tapped into behind the lights. I'm not a fan of the crimp on wire taps but that is what I see the most.

Spend even less. A good used Subaru with a 95-99 2.2 motor will last forever. Put them in an Auto as they are learning to drive. Solid car, they will most likely dent it anyway. No Torque bind, shifts well. Clean fluids and good brakes and tires.

1+ Super Rupair. Nothing but good reports on them.

With good tires the Subaru will crawl right out or through just about anything.

Runs great, no knocks or valve noise. Down side, it's still using oil. It must be the rings. Looks like a core engine or will be soon. Thanks, Larry

Have you checked the shift shaft going into the trans? Is it moving through all the gears?

I have a couple good CATS in Colorado that would bolt right in.

Installed new felpro valve guide seals. Maybe one of them was hanging up a valve slightly. It ran great to day. I ran it down the road for a mile or so. Hope the Subaru god is with me. Larry

Neutral switch on the trans tells the ECU when the trans is in between gears. The wires come to the top of the trans right behind the engine so it's easy to check with a meter.

Give Joel a call or email. http://www.greensyncro.com/ Vanagon Sales - Parts - Upgrades - Restoration - Engine Conversions Working only on 1982-1991 Vanagons, Syncros and Westfalias. Located in Manitou Springs, near Colorado Springs, CO Content copyright 2016. GREENSYNCRO.COM. All rights reserved. Contact us at 719-213-7604, or manitousyncro@gmail.com thanks! I have a ecu from a 2002 Subaru Legacy, $30 shipped.

Sunday, I installed the motor. It started and ran great for about 20 minutes, and then started knocking, sounded like a rod knock. Shut it off, it was the end of the day. Strange it ran just like a Subaru should for 20 min. I had pulled the coil plug and cranked it to get oil through the engine before starting it and then when I did hook the coil up it started and ran great. Monday - Thinking one of the valve keepers may have come off, I pulled the fans, accessory belts and valve covers so I could check the valve keepers and crank it over by hand. - all valve keepers and valve train looked good - I pulled the plugs and turned it over by hand. About every 2 or 3 turn as #1 came up on compression the crank would lock up. I did not force it but it would not turn in the normal rotation with light pressure on my 1/2" ratchet. I'd back up the crank a 1/4 turn and then it would crank right through a couple more rotations of the crank. - Just putting my thumb in the plug tube, all cylinder have compression. When I put the plugs back in, one at a time compression felt good as I turned the engine over. - Everything back together and it's turning over fine, not locking up - I get it pointed out the back of work to drive it to the parking lot. - I start it, it's knocking - A minute or so later, the knock turns into what sounds like valve tick - Another couple of minutes and the tick is gone, it's running fine. - Park it for the night Any ideas what could have caused the Knock, locked up crank when turned by hand and then it goes away? Very strange. Thanks, Larry

Changed the Oil Pan return tube o-ring seal and the Valve Guide Seals. Some said it could not be done and I would not opt to do it again, but I was able to change the valve guide seals without pulling the heads. Installed the Timing belt so I could rotate the cams until there was no tension on the valves. Removed both sets of Rocker Arms Removed the Plugs Put the piston at BDC and put rope down the plug hole to fill they cylinder Rotated the crank to bring the piston up to compress the rope and hold the valve up Used a valve spring removal tool, the one that catches the keepers to remove the valve springs Used a Plug Wire Pliers to remove the old valve guide seals Installed and seated new valve guide seals Now the hard part, compressing the springs and getting the keepers in: I used a tool sold for this purpose, but it was too large for the Subaru Valves. I turned down the pin on the lathe. It worked about 50% of the time. When it didn't work, one Keeper was in the other was out. The last time I did valve with the heads off, I had made a valve spring compressor out of PVC Pipe. A 1 1/2 Tee with a 3/4" piece of PVC about 8" long works well. You can cut a 1/2" notch out of the end that will allow you to insert the keeper while you compress the spring. Motor in on my next free day, I hope this has solved the oil consumption issue. Larry

Thanks for all the extra work, I'm sure it will help another member out there.