lmdew
-
Posts
4548 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
153
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by lmdew
-
Push the handle in and then unlock it. -
Both style tools under $25. https://www.amazon.com/Qbace-Joint-Clamps-Pliers-Banding/dp/B015IH45ZK/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467111923&sr=1-3&keywords=cv+joint+clamp
-
For the bands with the little tooth hooks a tile nipper works OK For the bands that slip under the ring a vise grips and screwdriver used a a pry bar against the vise grips and ring works OK The correct tools are best. Sometimes I end up using aviation safety wire and just putting several wraps around. this works well also.
-
Always the best option IMHO as you can see and do it right the first time.
-
Search the form for the special process to get the codes. I just used it on a friends car.
-
Are you talking about the mechanical drive for the Speedo cable? The speedometer is working fine. That's why I was thinking the sensors on the tail shaft. Thanks, Larry
-
The IAC are a little different, but an easy swap. Make sure the torque converter stays back and fully seated in the trans. Different Starter Reseal the rear breather plate while you have the trans off. Leave the remain alone, they mostly never leak unless someone changes one. No fluids when you pull the trans from the engine.
-
Auto or Manual? Your hill holder may the problem if you have a manual trans.
-
A new key and 140 ftlbs of torque on the bolt and you should be fine. I have had a good welder weld the key in with the crank in. Still working fine years later. It was on a 95 2.2. There is also a repair that uses roll pins to pin the damper to the crank gear. Good luck. Larry
-
No, they leak but, don't fail often. Do you have an Automatic? Is your AT TEMP light flashing 16 times after you start the car? Search Torque Bind.
-
A friends 93 Legacy Auto with 220K on it started having the Blinking Power light, but not all the time. I pulled the codes for him and it showed 32 & 33 the speed sensor. This is not constant, a few miles later, the Power light was off and it was shifting as normal. Thoughts? Thanks, Larry
-
Standard trans fluid hoses. NAPA should have it in stock. Front seal leaks usually come out the front of the transmission at the engine to block split line.
-
The orings on the compressor and condenser are often the source of the leak. Subaru parts.
-
Not adjustable. You can bleed the clutch change the fluid. I've been happy with the Grip force clutch kits off ebay.
-
Yes, you may have to change the top hats of the rear struts but they will bolt up. Why would you do this? Each to his own. Have fun, that's the important part.
-
You have to drop the headliner, which means all the trim has to come out. Lot's of work, there are small metal slides that allow the shade to slide. In warm weather the trim should be OK. Practice on the wreck car first.
-
As long as the front and rear diff are the same ratios you are OK. Swap them is the less expensive route. www.car-part.com will give you a good idea of the costs.
-
LOAD Pro would have seen the fault. Again, with no load on the circuit, the meter will lie to you. Read voltage and push the button to load the circuit. If voltage falls on it's tail, the problem is in the wiring, corrosion/highresistance. LOAD Pro on amazon runs about $50 and should be used everytime you read voltage. Easy! Larry
-
Make sure you are pushing the button on the end of the arm. Lots have people have told me the washer does not work and then I show them the button on the end, have to push it in.
-
Your meter can lie to you. Check out Load Pro on you tube. I had a 97 Impreza would randomly quit. Turned out to be the main relay. I'd take the time to take it out, and yes its tucked up in there.
-
Stay with a 2.2, it's a much better engine and does not have the head gasket problems the DOHC 2.5 have. You may have a bad lifter. Have you pulled your valve covers? The 2.2 had both adjustable valves and hydraulic lifters. If you have adjustable ones, check the valve clearance. If you have hyd, there is no adjustment but a lifter could be bad. Running 5-30 Oil?
-
Yep, smack it good!
-
I'm not positive on the 05, but on 95-2002 I know there is a spring clip on the end of the axle. To get it to pop off, I always cut away the old rubber boot. Then place the axle on a 2x4 and step on it. Take another 2x4 or hardwood block and put it right up against the inner CV joint and hit it hard! It should pop off.
-
It's the security System. You have reset button, small black button usually under the drivers side kick panel. Put the key in and turn it on and then press and hold the reset button.
-
Start it up and put a $1 bill up to the exhaust pipe. If it sucks up against the outlet you most likely have a bent valve. Easy fix for a bad 96-99 DOHC engine is to swap in a good old 95 2.2 with EGR. Plug and Play for the most part. You can use other years as long as you get the single port y-pipe and or put the correct intake on it.
