lmdew

Yes, turns a little a and then will come off. There are tabs on the washer that hold the rubber cover on. It will just pry off as well. Turn it about a 1/4 turn and the tabs will be lined up for it to come off.

www.car-part.com should help you out.

Yards: Is the car hit hard on the body somewhere? If so, check the condition of the car other than the accident. Is it well maintained? What the mileage? Does the engine turn over well by hand? How does the oil look? How do the plugs look? Check the overflow coolant for HG oily stuff on the DHOC 2.5 If everything checks good than it's worth pulling it. Otherwise move on. I like the 2.2 swaps, easy to do and a much better engine IMHO. Larry

I have the same thing going on. I put a 2002 engine into a 2003 Baja. I picked up the correct intake manifold from CCR in Denver (Thanks, Rick). I'm planning on drilling another hole in the air box, about the same place as the intake temp sensor but on the other side. I plan on using the same rubber grommet at the temp sensor and a plastic hose fitting from Ace Hardware to connect a hose to the EGR pipe. I'll cut the EGR pipe so I can slide a hose over it and onto the hose fitting. All I need now is the correct EGR Pipe. The threaded hole on the intake is larger than the normal EGR pipes on the 95-99 engines. Anyone have a spare?

The only spring pulling on the Shifter that I know of is the external one. It's a little over an 1" long and hooks to the plate that is over the large dia rubber bushing on the shift support rod.

Go good Used Subaru Parts! Much less, you get the experience of removing them from a yard car and you have good Subaru Parts. I often find nice KYB struts complete with springs and top hats for $30 each at Self Serve Yards, like You Pull and Pay. Yes you should have an alignment when you are done. You can get it pretty close by pin punching the strut alignment bolts and using a string wrapped around the outside of all 4 tires. The front tires will have about an 1/8" of clearance at the rear of the tire between the string and the tire. Larry

You can move the bumper itself. The holes in the frame could be elongated and then move the bumper back. You have big trees there, you could chain it to a tree and go right to the metal frame of the bumper and give it a good pull. The frame tube built into the body is multi layer and without a frame puller I doubt you will get much. Moving the bumper aft is most likely your best bet. I have the 02 parting out, good rear, bumper, trunk lid, lights... Larry

Seats Yes and easy. You may have to switch over the seatbelt latch on the seat so it will work with the seatbelt that is in the car. Fenders - Not without a lot of work Dash - Not without a lot of work The Clutch itself would work, but you may have to switch from cable to hydraulic operation.

Is you CEL on? I'd check for Codes. It may be that your neutral switch is out and the computer does not know when your trans is not in gear.

As long as the front and rear Diff ratios are the same you should be fine.

Check the output of the ALT and the connections and grounds. Computer may need to be reset as well.

Headlights will have to be from an Impreza 93-99 can be interchanged if you are willing to change out the marker lights and grill. Engine: Any 2.2 will work 90-98. If you can get one with the same EGR configuration that will help Subaru's are like Legos, plug and play for the most part.

Easy fix, unbolt it from the Trans and pull the support rod out of the rear rubber mount. Grab a good used one from the yard.

With the high mileage if you get $500 for it, take it. Think, if the person who buy is puts a 2.2 in it and takes care of everything else that it needs (Shocks, Brakes, Struts...) and then try's to sell it what would you pay for a 99 with 300K on it? If they get $2500 they would be lucky. If they put $1000 in parts into it and their time they are about breaking even. I use to pay up to $1200 for a 97-99 Outback in otherwise good condition. Now I'm not picking them up unless they are in the $500-600 range. I love working on Subaru's but have to at least break even at $20 an hour for labor.

That's about it. Valve adjustment may be.

Be careful when you pull it. The wire is short and it has to be disconnected as you remove the tail shaft. Also make sure you have removed the speed sensor on the tail shaft.

Nice Turbo. It will be fun. Congrats

Go out and rent your sports car for a week at a time. Get your speeding tickets, pay them off and save the rest. Enjoy the Subaru's you have. Turbo's are a pain to work on and expensive.

Just go to a yard and get a complete mirror. You will have to remove the inner door panel as well to get to the connector. www.car-part.com is a good search tool for full service yards. If you have a self serve yard where you can take tools in and remove the mirror yourself that is the way to go.

Auto? If so you might have torque bind.

First clean and find the source of the leak! - hoses - rear seal - front input shaft seal If you can get it up on a rack, it will be much easier.

Nope Lug spacing is different. The Outback is 5x100 as are most other Subaru's other than the STI & SVX. TireRack.com is always s good place to look up basics on wheels.

Basically, turn the cams to where the valves are closed, no pressure on the cam gear and then you can turn the crank until the index mark on the back tooth of the crank gear lines up with the tick mark under the crank sensor. When you have the crank set, line up the cams. When you compress the belt tensioner do it slowly and so it's in the same position as installed - vertical. Turn everything over by hand several times to check for interference. If it's good, start her up. Then put a dollar bill up to the tail pipe, if it gets sucked back to the pipe, you have a bent valve.

Looks like I'll be stripping 2 or 3 Auto's and one manual transmission to get the aluminum to the scrap yard. If you want any parts, you pay shipping and take care of my time (reasonable offer) and the parts are yours. Larry

If you want some help, let me know. I'm in COS, Larry