lmdew

Put the FWD fuse in and see if it changes. Sounds like you are in full time 4wd. The C-duty is not releasing the rear drive shafts in a sharp turn. Search torque bind. Did you double check the transmission connectors on top of the trans? Did you jack up the trans by the pan and may be dented it in? Is the trans light blinking 16 times when you start? Read the trans codes or have them read.

The smaller bolt will take care of the rear. The fronts, you may have to get the adjustable top strut mounts.

Front or rear? I've used the 12mm bolt from the bottom mount point, a spare on the top strut mount. It allows you to put the top in about a 1/8". It has worked great on several lifted OBS.

What if you manually shift from gear to gear? You might take it to a trans shop and ask them to evaluate it. They can put on their computer and drive the car and watch the trans.

Do it when the engine is cold. The preformed lines are nice, but you can get by with straight hose, just make sure you don't kink it. Remove the airbox Drivers side is pretty easy, just remove the clams and hose and replace The passenger side is a little harder access but it can be done. Fill the overflow bottle to the proper level.

I was doing a 99 2.5 to 2.2 swap and need an EGR line. I have several, but they all seem that the threaded fitting is to long. The line does not tighten up against the head before the fitting gets tight. Is there a difference in these lines? When I match the old cut one up it is about an 1/8" shorter, so it seems that there is a difference in the years. Thanks, Larry

Good visual inspection is first. Don't waist your money buying parts, until you know what you need.

Can this be right $12 for the cup seal? Engine Oil Pan Gasket Subaru - Legacy (1997) * Oil Pan Sealing Ring $16.03 -- $12.02 Guess I'll check around.

Get a Subaru Pump! I'd get a used Subaru pump over an aftermarket any day.

If you don't have need of the parts, it's most likely a better idea just to scrap it. Engine - $150-200 if it runs good Trans - $50 with TB Seats $20 Most yards will give you $75-200 for the car Scrap value about $140

When you bleed the brakes, you should not let the brake go down further than it normally does. Putting a 2x4 on the floor usually keeps it in a safe zone. If you take it all the way to the floor, the piston is working in an area of the cylinder that may have built up crud and it can take out the seal. I'd try bleeding it again. If you pump the brakes do you get a better feel? Then air in the system.

You can tap the trany for an heli coil. The hole is the correct size for the 14mm stud. I've done several this way. You can do it after the engine is in. I've worked from the bottom.

The 99 canister is in the back of the car. Just loop the 95 lines hooking them together. It works well if you put the larger line over the smaller one and just make them u-turn at the hard lines. You only need about 2" of vac line to do it.

The wire to the C-Duty is very short, and had to be unplugged as you pull off the tail shaft.

The pulley should always move, if it sticks when you tighten it it's not assembled correctly.

Small wire on the back of the starter! If it's not connected, the starter main contact's will not close and not battery voltage to the starter motor.

Yes they will bolt up, sometimes the brackets need to be moved as well.

If you still have the covers off the TBelt take a picture of the timing marks.

Make sure you are using the tick mark in the back of the crank gear and not the arrow on the front. Do you have compression when turning it over by hand? Do you have Spark? Have you tried adding a cap full of gas to the intake?

yes, it sounds like a water pump leak. The water pump is driven by the timing belt, so depending on the milage you may be do for a timing belt and seals. Search here or check you tube, there is lots of good information available. Overheating a Subaru engine is bad! Hopefully you have not done major damage. Find a good Subaru Mechanic or USMB member close by to help you out.

Do you smell fuel in the exhaust? Could be you have a leaking injector and it's flooded.

Usually they are either good or failed. Might check the wiring and plug. When it does not start are you getting fuel and no spark?

Do you know if they were working when the eng&trans were in the RS? Speedo, I'd swap the sender from the old trans on to the RS Trans.

Love my 98 OBS, 326K 5sp and I get 28-29 mpg all the time.

FADE all the way to the front?