lmdew

Is the temp gauge getting above the 1/2 way mark? The fans are independent and 2 speed on one or both. If the engine is hot a single fans comes on, if you have the AC on, both fans should come on. Is your AC Charge low?

Thanks, used is the way I'll go.

Repair this trans or replace it with a used one? UPAP trans are only $125 and not to hard to find, so I'm thinking replace the trans and then when I have more time I could split this one and see how bad things are inside.

I just picked up a 97 OBS project - 281K - Clutch was totally out, the center had broken out of the disk. A cheap clutch for sure - I put a good clutch in, the trans shifts fine, up and down but will not go into 4th. I have not checked the linkage yet. - The Trans input shaft did have a little play, but not bad for 281K I'm thinking a used trans,but thought I'd ask. Thanks, Larry

You can raise the engine with the mount nuts off or drive out the half shaft pin and slide it out a bit. I do a 6 point socket on a 3/8 universal and 6" extension. It usually works fine.

If you have any other engine maintenance to do, it's easier to pull the engine that drop the trans to do the clutch. Don't mess with the rear main, most of the time people that change it cause leaks.

Is the CEL on when it's running rough? I'd put it in the diagnostic mode and run it to see what comes up.

Dealer or junk yard. I often pull good ones in rust free CO. In OH they are most likely all like yours.

The half shaft slips into the Knuckle. Brake caliper, Brake Hose, Backing Plate, Hub and E-brake cable will do the trick.

I'd get a good look at your's, may be a picture. www.car-part.com from a rust free state will be much less. If your in no rush, I could get you one from Colorado for about 45 shipped.

X2 on Emily's points. a 2.2 swap is the way to go.

I've used the Grip Force Kits off of Ebay and have been happy. Other important things have been covered. Larry

Yes, I'd grab the E-brake cables as well and the brake lines coming off the body.

You can put a threaded insert in the lower starter hole and put a bolt in.

Sometimes it's just the socket contacts and bulb. I'd pull them and make sure you have good contact. You could also try the parking light switch on top of the steering column and see if they work.

Back probed the plug 11.5 volts on both sided of the control coil, = missing ground 11.5 volts on the input side of the fuel pump switched contact. I hit the yard today and got a couple of Subaru fuel pump relays, newer ones and plug one in. It started right up. Hopefully it is a solid fix. I believe the relay did it. 2nd day in a row with many start and stop cycles, has worked each time.

When it overheats, look for bubbles in the overflow tank and check and see if the heat is blowing cold. These are two signs of HG failure. HG can hide and usually happen under heavy loads at first. Are the fans coming on with higher temps?

Yep, Load, Ground, Power. I"m going to get my meter out today and take some voltage readings under load. I also remembered the PO had bypassed the ignition SW with 3 on off switched which I removed and put back on an Subaru Ignition SW so I'll double check that as well. The connector looks clean and contacts are in good condition. Thanks Larry

I know from previous post the relay ground is controlled by the computer. This one is strange works fine some times and others not. Well, I thought I had it, I swapped the heater fan relay and fuel pump relay and the fuel pump worked just fine yesterday. I went to start it this morning and it would not start. I dropped the kick panel, Computer and just moved the relay and it started and ran fine for 3 hours. I stopped for gas about an hour into the trip and it started right back up. Now sitting in the driveway for a while, I was cleaning it and then went to start it, no joy. I removed and jumped the relay and it runs fine. Wiring or Computer? Anyone have the wiring manual or a good way to check this? Looks like you'd have to drop the complete dash out to really get at all the wiring. Thanks, Larry

Pretty good deal if they are in good condition. What's it worth to you is always the qualifier!

Oil or coolant comes out of the engine at the HG. You can see it leaking at the HG splitline. Different from Internal leaks of the 96-98 DOCH engines.

Save time and money, drop in a good used 2.2

The outside handle is most likely not all the way in. Push the release handle in and then try your locks. The outside handle mount rusts and restricts the movement of the release handle, jamming up the works.

You need to find the source of the noise. Changing the length of the strut put your CV joints in a new spot, but if they were in good condition that should be OK. Did you make sure the top strut mount was tight? I've swapped struts where you need a thick washer on top of the strut mount to take up the added length of the top strut mount. Otherwise the nut runs out of threads and you still have movement of the top strut mount plate.

6 point socket vise grips pipe wrench die grinder, cut the nut weld a wrench on the nut cutting tourch You could also pull the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the body as thats the part you need to change anyway.