lmdew

The rear tail shaft seal is easy to replace. All seals are different. Pan uses RTV not a gasket. Mileage? If you drove the trans with no fluid, you damaged it and a used trans is most likely your best bet.

Shawn at http://retroroo.com/ Rick at http://ccrengines.com/ Both in CO.

Get the code # and let us know what they are! Find a good Subaru shop or USMB member in your area! Yes changing parts is not a way to fix a symptom.

Yep, 99 I think. Only one wire going to the temp sensor was chewed through, so I repaired it. Lot's of work to get the harness off. - Power Steering Pump - AC Compressor - Intake It's almost done. Thanks

98/08

I have good used Subaru Pans, Rust Free CO if you want one. Round or flat on the bottom. Larry

I got a 98 Impreza Sedan with a 2.2. The darn rabbits had fun eating plug wires and into the harness. I replace the plug wires and coil (4 pin) but there is still damage to the main part of the harness. As soon as I start it the cooling fan starts and it throwing P0117. I can clear the code, the fan turns off as the CEL goes out, but comes on in a second or two. I have several other intakes but none of them are an exact match. The 98 Impreza: - 4 pin coil plug - Power Steering Pump plug - No EGR The other harness I have: - 3 pin coil plug, I have the correct 3 pin coil to work with the wires - No Power Steering Pump plug - Has an EGR So is I just swap the harness and use the 3 pin coil, and leave the Power Steering and EGR unplugged will it work without setting CEL? Thanks, Larry

Did you have CNC files for the mount blocks?

Sounds like your fans are not working. Quick check, start it and turn on the AC. Do the Fans both start working? if so it's not your fans and you have a way to keep it cool when you are in stop and go traffic, just turn on the AC. If that's the case, it's most likely your temp switch on the manifold behind the intake. Passenger side, down on top of the block. The larger of the two with the plastic connector. If the fans are not working at all, check the fuses. You can also hook up the diagnostic plugs under the dash to have the ECU cycle the fans on and off.

Go to the junk yard and pull a good used Subaru Pump. www.car-part.com is also a good source. After market pumps are a crap shoot.

Live with it, put it in "N" if you want.

Any push to close switch will work. ACE or Radio shack will have them.

It's the larger temp sensor on the water manifold under the intake. look down on the back passenger side of the intake and you will see the two sensors. One is for the Dash, the other goes to the ECU. The relays in the engine fuse box will turn them on and off. Why, what's up?

Only thing that is on top is the Oil Pressure Sender at the front under the alternator. Oil will travel.

You have to remove the aluminum retainer that holds the seal. Clean the trans as well as you can Soak the retainer with PB blaster for a few days. Remove the retainer bolt and pin punch the trans and retainer for reference Tighten the retainer, hand tight until it stops. pin Punch a second mark. Remove the retainer, count the revelutions if you want Replace the Seal Replace the o-ring Lube both Screw the retainer in hand tight (counting turns if you want) back off to the alignment marks Install the locking plate. Done

I've put different color hoods on cars and some people actually love them, as they can always find their car in the crowed parking lot!

Put a little fuel in the throttle an try it. You'll know if its fuel or spark.

Anyone want to meet up at the Laurelwood Public House and Brewery, Workhorse, talk Subaru's. I'm in town this week 27th - 3rd. Shoot me a PM with a contact #. Larry

Should be OK. I know others have said they did it.

Can we pin this Electrical Training somewhere? Starter problems, watch this: Want more great Electrical Training, watch these: https://www.youtube.com/user/bivideo7/videos

Sounds like the temp sensor was not plugged in or was damaged. There are two of them, one for the computer and one for the dash.

If you have a small hand, pull the lower dash panel and the reach up in back of the dash. You will find the speedo cable coming through the firewall and it just pushes onto the speedo on the dash. The lack of your speedo working is most likely the cause of your CEL.

That's the knock sensor. Make sure it's clocked so it's not hitting the block where the wire comes out of it.

No easy way other than insert a tee into the fuel line between the filter and engine. I guess you could build on you could cap off or plug. Good video on Fuel Pressure Regulators and how things work:

Since it's a 93 you are better off on the breather as it's aluminum instead of plastic. They are sealed with RTV. Anytime I have the rear face of the engine open, it's wise to reseal it. If you were not leaking oil before, you are most likely good.