lmdew

I've seen the rear half shafts popped out of the diff about 1/2", acts like a slipping clutch on the manual trans.

Pull all the Timing Covers and check to ensure it's properly timed. Lot's of time the belt will hold, but timing jumps. I'd do that first so you don't bend valves. Hopefully you did not bend any yet.

No chip in a 2002 as far as I know. Subaru can cut a new one off the VIN.

When you jumped the Switch you were on the body side wiring correct? Did you try both Switches, the Neutral and Reverse to make sure you had the correct one?

Most likely NO. I've had them spin many times, never had damage, as long as it was timed right before it was turned by the crank.

I believe that stub shaft is held in with a circle spring clip. You could try a pry bar between the inner CV Joint and trans, or put the axle nut back on and then use the strut/rotor as a slide hammer and try to pop it out. you may pull the inner CV joint apart if it's spring clip pops first. I've done it both ways at the yards.

No, if the C-Duty is not working, it's in AWD all the time, which is why you have torque bind.

YES & YES You have to slide the tail shaft back about an 1" and disconnect the connector for the C-Duty

The one gong to the C-Duty, which controls the rear clutch pack. If the light is no longer coming on, the C-Duty or a wire fault on it is most likely.

Search Torque Bind, some pretty good threads with pics on the replacement. Just change what's bad. The last one i did just had a broken wire that had to be fixed. Does the FWD light come on when you put in the fuse? Have you tried the drain and fill to clean out the Trans?

I've had good luck going to Ace Hardware and getting bronze bushings to work with some modifications.

Run a couple of single strands of wire in the connector, so you can read voltage with the pump hooked up. I bet you will see different readings.

The pump will cycle on for a few seconds when you first turn the key on and then turn off, this is normal operation. If the fuse is good, you should have power to the pump. Your pump may be going bad, pulling more amps than normal. Worked off the battery cause of the high CCA. Search fuel pump, there was just a thread on this last week or two. Turned out to be a bad pump. Fixed with a good used Subaru pump from the yard. Your meter can lie to you if you are just checking voltage. Check out the Load Pro at www.brighterideas.com Larry

TB is a pretty easy fix as everything is in the tailshaft of the Trans. It's much easier to fix TB instead of a trans change. Search Transmission Chart and you will find it, to cross check your #'s

Joel will help http://www.greensyncro.com/Services.php You need both sides of the harness all the way to the ECU.

Engine side or Car Side and what engine are you swapping in? 95-99 2.2 and 2.5 engine harness are pretty much the same, some minor differences. 96-99 2.5 DOHC will plug and play for sure.

Always good to read the owners manual, the FWD fuse info is in there. Half shafts are pretty easy to change as long as the splines in the hub are not rusted in. Loosen the axle nut Pin punch the top strut bolt for alignment Remove the top lower strut mount bolt Loosen the lower bolt Remove the inner half shaft roll pin and slide it off the trans shaft Remove it from the hub. Reinstall in the reverse order

Take a look. Did they say leaking coolant or oil? Small oil leaks will stay small for lots of miles.

Don't pull the pan to change the internal screen/filter. If you have an external spin on filter, you may change it.

Check the TPS readout if it only happens at specific throttle settings.

Auto or Manual Trans? If its an auto, you should have put the FWD fuse in when you put on the spare on the rear. I suspect you have taken out one of the CV joints on the half shaft.

You will find 4 or 5 bulbs in the unit. You have to carefully pull off the rear circuit board. The bulb holders are 1/4 turn and come out easy. You can work the green plastic cover off the old bulb and reuse it. To make the mini bulbs the same length, grab a ball point pen and pull the ink tube out. Cut the empty upper end to the length you need and feed the mini bulb wires through and into the old socket. Trim the excess wire.

Bump

One is the neutral Sw the other the Rev Sw. They do go up to the top of the trans, so yes you can check them Open = OL, Closed 0.0 Ohms easy.

Manual Trans has a Switch on the upper drivers side of the trans. I believe the Auto comes from the selector on the passenger side of the trans.