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lmdew

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Everything posted by lmdew

  1. Yep, Works! Wife's 98 Outback would not release or unlock. I could hear the lock cycling, but no joy. Read this, had her push the handle in and cycle the Locks, Rear Hatch Opened like Normal. THANKS USMB!
  2. Good strap wrench, then take your ratchet & 6 point socket, put it on and hit the ratchet handle with a heavy hammer. If the flexplate is still on you can use it to lock up the crank. If option 1 or 2 does not work, you can pull a plug and stuff a bunch of rope down the plug hole to lock the cylinder as the piston comes up against the rope.
  3. I'd get underneath and check the shifter linkage. you might also have someone rock the car while you try to free the shifter.
  4. Its a bunch of work, but your best bet is to hit the yard and grab a good box. Replace the entire thing.
  5. Flex Plate. 2.2 and 2.5 are different OD's but both will bolt up to the crank.
  6. Yes it will bolt right up and plug in and run. If the EGR is not the same the CEL will come on, but you can work around that.
  7. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150078-2005-outback-120k-6000-co/ $6000 HEAD Gasket leaks Tire wear Trans Fluid
  8. Does your AT Temp light flash 16 times after you start the car? You might have Torque Bind. Have to ask yourself what caused the diff to fail? Once you drop out the Diff, you will see a 2 letter/number code painted in white on top of the housing. That gives you the ratio. You can also use the Trans # to get the ratio. Make sure the front and rear Diff's have the same ratio.
  9. Yep, your good. Pull the tensioner pin and turn it over manually 4 times, making sure everything is OK.
  10. It un-screws. It also sets the bearing clearance so it has to go pack to the same place. - Wire brush and clean it the best you can - shoot it with PB Blaster or the like and let it soak - Center punch the trans and seal retainer so you can put it back to the same spot - Take your prybar or large straight slot and put it into the slots - Tighten it hand tight, so you know how much play was set for the bearimg. Center punch 2 marks - Try turning it out. If it does not move you can try a punch and hammer, but expect to break off some of the tabs - Remove the retainer, get the correct LH or RH Seal and o-ring from Subaru - Lube the oring - Install the retainer with the new seal already installed
  11. Check the gear oil levels front and rear diff. Check the drive shaft U-joints.
  12. Check the Computer. There are two single plug connectors under the drivers kick panel. Green Diagonstic Black ECU Codes, turn on the key and count the flashes. Check for Spark, if you have spark, the computer is getting the correct signals Put a little gas in the intake, does it start and run, if so you have a fuel problem Pull the side Timing Belt Covers and check to see if you are correctly timed. I'd do it in that order and you should have a good idea what the problem is.
  13. Pull the plastic cover around the bottom Hook Loosen the two 12 mm bolts Take a block of wood and hammer and give it a good wack You can move it in about 1/8-1/4" Tighten the Bolts Put it back together
  14. Well, you could tell them you don't want it back until it's fixed. I'd ask if they contacted Subaru North America? Good luck,
  15. Make sure it's not a water pump or hose leak. If it's coming from the HG as long as you keep the fluids topped off you can drive it. The external HG leaks of the 2000+ SOHC engines are not as bad as the internal 96-99 DOHC engines.
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