lmdew

Get a 6 point wrench and put it over the nut and then weld the wrench to the frame. You could JB weld or tack the nut to the wrench so it would stay in place if you ever had to pull it again.

Yes no flashing AT light. Pan was not dented Good Clean Fluid Shifts fine if I keep the RPM low Shifts fine if I manually shift gears I'm going to try to find a TCU from a trans with the newer inhibitor switch and see if that does not take care of the problem, but that will not be for a few weeks. Darn work is getting in the way of Subaru fun.

Better but not fixed. The shifting is on as hard and it now shifts well up to 4K. I think I may have found the problem. The Inhibitor that is on the trans I installed has 4 mounting bolts. The Inhibitor that is on the original trans has 3 mounting bolts so there may be some difference. I thought the transmission numbers were the same, but there may be some differences. Trans Experts, any ideas? Can I find the correct ECU and swap it in or do I need to swap the trans?

As you said it could be lots of things. Poor Mileage - Plugs use NGK copper - Wires, use NGK or Subaru - Coolant Temp Sensor - O2 Sensor Leaking fuel injector could cause the issue as fuel pressure drops. Next time it happens instead of cranking for 20 seconds, if it does not fire right away, stop and then try starting it again.

You can clean it with MAF cleaner. Yes a used Subaru MAF is usually better than an aftermarket new MAF.

I'd leave it. I see that all the time, it's coming from the breather. Cam if you want to.

Stuff happens. Get the code and go from there. You learn by doing things and as you have seen you have Great Subaru support right on the USMB.

Check your rear diff. My son and my Daughters cars over the years both had a rear half shaft pop out about a 1/2. All the torque was going no where. They were both manual transmissions and it felt just like a slipping clutch. One way to confirm the rear diff is good is to try to turn the input shaft/rear drive shaft with both rear wheels on the ground. It should not rotate.

No I believe it was an 02 Forester. The trans had the same number so it should be a direct plug and play. I believe I have it solved, the Inhibitor switch was slightly off. I rotated it about an 1/8" clockwise and the short test drive was good. Additional road time will confirm the fix. When the shop saw the trans shift to neutral and then come back into gear and with the trans shifting well in the manual mode I saw the light! Thanks for the Help. Larry

I took it to a quality trans shop today. With the scanner on they could see the trans shift into neutral and then back into gear. I'm going to check the Inhibitor switch as I'm thinking the TCU may be seeing the trans shift to neutral and then back into gear under high revs if things move enough. This would make sense as the trans shifts well if I keep the RPM in the 2-3K range or if I manually shift the trans!

Are you sure they didn't leave the rear trans drive shaft unbolted? When I tow, I remove the 4 bolts between the drive shaft and rear diff.

Thanks, I checked it but there is no yellow wire in that row of B137 From the back of the connector the Left side the first pin is pink with green stripe The other end of the connector, right side close to the second connector in the row is a green wire. the connector is p p I p p I x x I p p I p p so 8 pins, only 7 wires. The diagram I have shows the yellow wire going in on pin 17 It also shows a connection to a pink wire which goes in on pin 1 Not sure I'm trusting the Mitchell repair information i got. do you show a wire color for pin 9? Thanks Larry

Anyone have the pinout for the ECU connectors? ECU #'s 4C 22611 AH05E JA18000 RK3 3304 Front O2 sensor is missing the ground, provide by the ecu. ECU has 4 plugs on it. Thanks

Happens hot or cold. Going after the O2 sensor fault first and then the trans. I do have the other trans for parts, but don't want to just throw parts at it. If the TPS is correctly set and everything else checks out I'll take it to a trans shop and have them hook up to the computer.

Knock Sensor can go bad without codes which will retard the timing.

I've done a few. I always punch mark the trans and the retainer and then turn it tight and punch the retainer again to align with the trans housing punch mark. I try to count the turns coming off but putting it back in counting turns can be hard, so I turn it by hand until it bottoms, the second set of punch marks aligned most often and then back it off until the first punch marks align. Usually about two teeth (for lack of a better word of the bosses on the retainer).

you may have damage the TC input shaft seal. The bad part is you will have to pull the trans to replace it. Make sure you used the tick mark on the back crank tooth instead of the arrow on the front of the crank gear. Common error

Lube the cable and valve. If it still fails to return get a used one from one of the rust free parts of the country.

If the plugs are out it should spin freely. There is no compression so you are just turning against the spring pressure of the valves which is not much. Is the motor out of the car? A leak down check would confirm a bent valve but it's very hard to do if the engine is in the car.

Finally had a bit of time to re-pin and check voltages, looks like I'm missing the ground for the heater. Key On Red- 1.8 volts White - 2.1 volts Y/R 12.11 volts Yellow (with the sensor disconnected it was reading 2.7 volts, once the sensor was plugged in and I back probed it it read 12.11 volts) Looking at the wiring it looks like this ground is in the ECU. The ECU is throwing P0130. I checked the old and new sensor resistance on the heater circuit and it only showed 1.6 ohms. Subaru and a new Bosch Sensor.

I picked up an 03 Outback and the Front diff had gone south. Some teeth were completely gone. The PO had had the trans rebuilt by AMMCO 4 years prior and said it just stopped. It had been running fine up to that point. It would drive but every time it came to the missing tooth it jumped like crazy, Only drove it on to the flatbed. I replace the trans with a used one. They had the same trans number and it drove and shifted well but then started very hard shift changes when you accelerated hard. - Slow steady driving it still shifts well up and down. - If I manually shift the trans it shifts well without any shock - If I get on the gas in pretty much any gear, the engine RPM goes up and then after a second it drops into gear. Hard enough that it feels like someone just hit the car in the rear. I disconnected the battery and left it off for a couple of hours. This seemed to reset the TCU and it shifted well for about 5 miles and then started the hard shifts again. The fluid was clean and I did flush it and change the filter The FWD fuse works fine, the hard shifting happens when it's in FWD as well. Any Ideas? Thanks

Single or dual port heads? I have dual port y pipes and cats, Shipping would be a bit from CO but cheaper than buying new.

Easy way is to head to a you pull and pay and get a good used one. Around here they are $50 -$75. Bolt it on and you are done. Way cheaper than having it painted.

No you should not be hitting anything. Are you sure the Crank back tooth was properly aligned? It's not the arrow on the front of the gear but the tick mark on the rear tooth. Hopefully you did not bend any valves.

I have a good 98 2.5 DOHC with a bent valve. I could send you the short block. $100 + Shipping