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Everything posted by lmdew
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I'd fix it. Drop the complete exhaust in one section Disconnect the engine to fire wall link Jack the back of the car as high as you can Drain the Trans fluid Support the trans at the front end with a block of wood and jack on the front diff, just in front of the pan Drop the rear Trans support Remove the Speed sensor on the tail shaft Drop the Drive shaft Pull the rear trans housing and replace the C-Duty, if it's bad. The last one I fixed, the wire was broken off the connector. Fixed the wire and all is fine. Cost - a few hours and one gasket for the tail shaft housing. That was in rust free CO. you may need a little more time.
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Many times it's just the o-ring on the top of the pump. It's a Subaru part, at least I have never found one that fit if it was not the Subaru part. They are under a $2 so well worth it. Try that first. If it does not fix the problem then you can either go used or rebuild. The rebuild needs to be done with care. If you can find a good used one that's great, but leaking pumps are the norm.
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Well you didn't tell us what year Outback you purchased. Yes many of the dealers have online parts with up to 25% off. Subaru Filters are good filters and do the job. They have a round oring style seal instead of the square cut seal and seal better. You only have to change the crush ring if it's damaged. Only the Drivers window comes in the auto full up or down function. HG on the 2000+ have external leaks, oil or coolant. Make sure you run the Subaru coolant conditioner and keep an eye on leaks. They start small and will stay that way for a long time. Enjoy your new Subaru
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New carpet
lmdew replied to blindrummer's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
On most Subaru's they are under a little carpet flap on the body vertical wall coming up from the pan. One on each side. I replace the carpet if it's torn or pull and power wash. Just make sure you let it dry well before you install it. It's pretty easy to fine good used carpet at the Self Serve yards. Pull the Seats, the counsel and trim panels and you have the carpet out and cheap. $30 or so. -
rats and harness
lmdew replied to jurer5's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Looks like the ground wire that comes off the ABS unit and grounds to the ABS mounting bolt to frame.- 13 replies
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rats and harness
lmdew replied to jurer5's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
There are a couple of ground wires that come out of the main harness running under the radiator, they hook to the frame.- 13 replies
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motor swap
lmdew replied to dp213's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Make sure you reseal the rear Breather Plate. If it's plastic, its best to get the metal version. Pretty cheap from the dealer. -
$150 and I'll give you everything you need to swap to Disk and new lateral links. Larry Colorado Springs.
- 16 replies
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- Lateral Link Bolt removal
- Lateral Link assembly
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I always lock up the cams by using the old belt and taking it around the crank and the cam pulleys and putting a vice grips on the belt in the middle. I do this on the SOHC engine but I believe it would work on the quad cams as well. Use the old belt so you don't damage the new one.
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Nope, I've done several conversions and they work just fine. Everything bolts right up. I take it you have soaked the link bolt and bushings for a few days before trying this? Most of the time I don't have problems with CO cars getting this bolt out. Soak it and then try it again. If you need to cut the bolt, I have them. Larry
- 16 replies
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- Lateral Link Bolt removal
- Lateral Link assembly
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Must not be a colorado car. Yes you have to cut the bolt. Easier to go to the UPull and Pay and get good rust free ones. You could also convert to disk brakes if you wanted to. I have everything you need for a swap. Colorado Springs, CO
- 16 replies
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- Lateral Link Bolt removal
- Lateral Link assembly
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Corrosion at the relay connector I bet. Find the source of the clicking and inspect the connector. Just pulled one from a friends 97 Impreza there was green crap growing out of it. The main relay way up under the dash on the drivers side. Check out www.brigherideas.com or go to youtube and search LoadPro. Dan has lots of great electrical training information. Does the engine actually die or does it just go back to idle? If it's going to idle it's the MAF. Larry
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Don't bother dropping the pan. There is NO filter in there, just a pickup screen that I've never seen dirty or plugged. I use the Drain, Fill, Pull the Trans cooler hose and pump out the old fluid. Do this about 3/4 of a gallon at a time, refilling the trans each time. In about 3 gallons the fluid will be coming out nice and clean. Your year Subaru, Subaru does offer an external filter kit. If it has this the filter is up in the engine compartment on the drivers side frame rail. Add it if you like. Super Tech, Wally World is what I use. Cheap and good quality, at least I've never had any issues. I'd rather buy cheaper fluid and change it sooner that buy expensive stuff and leave it in there for 100K.
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I picked up an 03 Subaru Legacy Outback. The hood and front half of the roof was showing paint failure. A fellow I work with does auto body on the side and is painting it for me. As he sanded it down he said they painted right over rust. Poor prep would cause this failure. I also noticed rust bubbled on the inside of the roof as I had pulled the headliner to get to the roof rack.
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Not worth messing with. You are dropping the top of the struts 3/4", that does not mean you will get a full 3/4" lift at the bottom of the engine and rear diff, the lowest points on the car. - The Steering U-joint is longer and you may need the shorter one. - There is no spacer for the rear Trans mount, it's a different cross member - Drive shaft center mounts do vary, but I doubt the small change would make a difference Again, not enough difference to even mess with IMHO