lmdew

If he works on Subaru's he'll reseal the rear breather plate on the back of the engine. Just mention it to him. Oil Pump inside cover plate screws loctie and new oring.

Get the Driveshaft ujoints checked. If they fail, it could take out the tail shaft of the trans. Subaru will tell you they are not replaceable but they are. There was a thread on this just a couple of weeks ago. Larry

rear calipers are all the same size. Front's vary depending on year and model.

If it has and aftermarket remote start or security system, junk it.

I don't have any time until the first week of AUG, but if you can live with it that long, I'd be happy to take a look for you. Larry

You'll want to grab the E Brake cables as well.

Next time it happens, try putting it in Neutral and see if it doesn't start normally.

Try moving the shift selector to "N" or slightly out of Park. If you switch is not indexed as Cougar said it will not start.

3M spray adhesive works well on foam.

Bent Struts and all 4 tires need to match within the 10% allowed by Subaru. Good visual inspection of the struts, lower A Arm and knuckle are in order.

Must not be a AZ Car. Get a use lateral link While your there get a used rear hub and brake line and be done with it. $40 or so at a You pull and pay yard.

If you have paperwork on your overhaul, see if they sealed the breather plate. How long ago was the rebuild done? I'd go back to the shop that did the work first! PCV can cause some oil issues. $12.00 for the part at your Subaru Dealer. Don't use aftermarket.

Yep, just grab a good passenger side. Easy to get out at the yard, just cut the material and remove the complete pad. i can get complete seats for $40 at the local UPAP self serve yard. $60 shipped, I'll grab you a good foam pad and ship it.

It's part of the wiring harness. It connects to the engine compartment fuse box. 1) if the wire is long enough crimp on a new end and be done with it. Don't use a cheap crimp, get a good one and a quality crimper 2) hit the junk yard and remove a good one

Well to begin with, the engine will have to come out as the HG go on Dry. If you put RTV on they are junk and you may have caused oil system problems if the RTV got into the oil passages. I'd swap to a good 2.2 and be done with it. The last pic, the two brackets, one is for the Alternator bolt and the other hold the O2 sensor wire and goes on the lower passenger side stud.

Change the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals to stop the oil from getting into the plug wells.

Well, you in a high corrosion area. If you are only lightly applying the brakes all the time I'd bet you have glazed them over. Some hard braking may fix the problem. Have a good Subaru shop check it. Many things can cause what your are feeling.

Easy to find in CO. $60 shipped

I've seen the results of a few that have let loose. I can get bad real fast. Better safe than sorry. It's going to cost less to fix it now than to wait.

Yep, I like good used parts "Subaru" better than new.

Kids first car, pick up a 95-99 Subaru with a 2.2 engine in it! Solid as can be. Cheap insurance and safe!

Yep, that's the shape of the panel. PM me your email and I can send a pic. Larry

I have a stock radio in the built in panel. If that's what you have, I can ship it for $45. Larry

Yes Plug and Play. You may have to swap the Y-pipe if one was a dual port and the other is single Port exhaust. Yes Manual and Trans engines are interchangeable you just have to swap the flywheel/flex plate over.

Picked up a 99 Impreza Sedan. I could rotate the crank but the cams did not turn. Got it home, pulled the cover and teeth on the crank gear portion of the belt are all sheared off. Toothed Idler Frozen solid. New T-Belt and pulleys and it fired up. No valve tick that I can detect. In pretty sad shape, needs TLC but it will be a good Subaru again! NAPA belt, first time I have ever seen teeth sheared off a belt.