lmdew

I've gotten some off Ebay, it was a long time ago. I've also used the old plastic and mounted in a sealed low beam lights. You have to cut out some of the back plastic but they will go in.

NGK copper plugs and plug wires!

Search the code, there is lots of good information hear and at the outback form. CarDoc has a very extensive article on it. You did the right thing, start with the easy stuff first: - Fuel Filter - NGK plugs and plug wires if needed - Check for air and vac leaks

Drive shaft most likely, Were the U-joints checked, free movement? Did you make sure the front and rear diff were the same ratios?

They will be OK, did you mark the rotation?

Coils usually do not fail. If you want a spare or two, I have a stack of them from the 2.5 to 2.2 swaps. $20 shipped HG are easy to figure out, Check to make sure the radiator itself is full when cold Check the Over flow bottle for black oily stuff Larry

Interesting so they actually make a HG just for this application?

Is the AT light flashing 16 times after you start the car? If so you have a trans fault. The TCM hardly ever fail more likely an input. Throttle position sensor...

So you put a socket on the front crank pulley with the car in neutral and you can not turn the engine over? If that is the case I'd drain the oil and see if you have part numbers in there. You could also pull the plugs and then try it.

Junk yard would be the fastest. There are several different configurations on Brakes. The nice thing about Subaru's as they are Lego's for the most part so you can bolt up pretty much any matching brake set. Lot's of folks have went to larger WRX Brakes, which would bolt right to your Impreza. As far as the pin, yes I have seen your configuration and if I was home could pull a dozen out of my 5 gal bolt buckets. That will not help you get back on the road but the junk yard will.

Does the engine turn freely by hand? If so you can inspect the complete flywheel Have you checked the voltage at the Battery and Starter under load? Does it make a difference if you put it in neutral?

I'd at least flush the brake system and inspect the pads. How many miles on the car? You may have boiled the brake fluid in that caliper. An inspection will tell you if anything is out of kilter. Larry

Can you drill from the bottom? Start small and work up until you can pop the head off the bolt

Get a 6 point wrench and put it over the nut and then weld the wrench to the frame. You could JB weld or tack the nut to the wrench so it would stay in place if you ever had to pull it again.

Yes no flashing AT light. Pan was not dented Good Clean Fluid Shifts fine if I keep the RPM low Shifts fine if I manually shift gears I'm going to try to find a TCU from a trans with the newer inhibitor switch and see if that does not take care of the problem, but that will not be for a few weeks. Darn work is getting in the way of Subaru fun.

Better but not fixed. The shifting is on as hard and it now shifts well up to 4K. I think I may have found the problem. The Inhibitor that is on the trans I installed has 4 mounting bolts. The Inhibitor that is on the original trans has 3 mounting bolts so there may be some difference. I thought the transmission numbers were the same, but there may be some differences. Trans Experts, any ideas? Can I find the correct ECU and swap it in or do I need to swap the trans?

As you said it could be lots of things. Poor Mileage - Plugs use NGK copper - Wires, use NGK or Subaru - Coolant Temp Sensor - O2 Sensor Leaking fuel injector could cause the issue as fuel pressure drops. Next time it happens instead of cranking for 20 seconds, if it does not fire right away, stop and then try starting it again.

You can clean it with MAF cleaner. Yes a used Subaru MAF is usually better than an aftermarket new MAF.

I'd leave it. I see that all the time, it's coming from the breather. Cam if you want to.

Stuff happens. Get the code and go from there. You learn by doing things and as you have seen you have Great Subaru support right on the USMB.

Check your rear diff. My son and my Daughters cars over the years both had a rear half shaft pop out about a 1/2. All the torque was going no where. They were both manual transmissions and it felt just like a slipping clutch. One way to confirm the rear diff is good is to try to turn the input shaft/rear drive shaft with both rear wheels on the ground. It should not rotate.

No I believe it was an 02 Forester. The trans had the same number so it should be a direct plug and play. I believe I have it solved, the Inhibitor switch was slightly off. I rotated it about an 1/8" clockwise and the short test drive was good. Additional road time will confirm the fix. When the shop saw the trans shift to neutral and then come back into gear and with the trans shifting well in the manual mode I saw the light! Thanks for the Help. Larry

I took it to a quality trans shop today. With the scanner on they could see the trans shift into neutral and then back into gear. I'm going to check the Inhibitor switch as I'm thinking the TCU may be seeing the trans shift to neutral and then back into gear under high revs if things move enough. This would make sense as the trans shifts well if I keep the RPM in the 2-3K range or if I manually shift the trans!

Are you sure they didn't leave the rear trans drive shaft unbolted? When I tow, I remove the 4 bolts between the drive shaft and rear diff.

Thanks, I checked it but there is no yellow wire in that row of B137 From the back of the connector the Left side the first pin is pink with green stripe The other end of the connector, right side close to the second connector in the row is a green wire. the connector is p p I p p I x x I p p I p p so 8 pins, only 7 wires. The diagram I have shows the yellow wire going in on pin 17 It also shows a connection to a pink wire which goes in on pin 1 Not sure I'm trusting the Mitchell repair information i got. do you show a wire color for pin 9? Thanks Larry