lmdew

I picked up an 03 Outback and the Front diff had gone south. Some teeth were completely gone. The PO had had the trans rebuilt by AMMCO 4 years prior and said it just stopped. It had been running fine up to that point. It would drive but every time it came to the missing tooth it jumped like crazy, Only drove it on to the flatbed. I replace the trans with a used one. They had the same trans number and it drove and shifted well but then started very hard shift changes when you accelerated hard. - Slow steady driving it still shifts well up and down. - If I manually shift the trans it shifts well without any shock - If I get on the gas in pretty much any gear, the engine RPM goes up and then after a second it drops into gear. Hard enough that it feels like someone just hit the car in the rear. I disconnected the battery and left it off for a couple of hours. This seemed to reset the TCU and it shifted well for about 5 miles and then started the hard shifts again. The fluid was clean and I did flush it and change the filter The FWD fuse works fine, the hard shifting happens when it's in FWD as well. Any Ideas? Thanks

Single or dual port heads? I have dual port y pipes and cats, Shipping would be a bit from CO but cheaper than buying new.

Easy way is to head to a you pull and pay and get a good used one. Around here they are $50 -$75. Bolt it on and you are done. Way cheaper than having it painted.

No you should not be hitting anything. Are you sure the Crank back tooth was properly aligned? It's not the arrow on the front of the gear but the tick mark on the rear tooth. Hopefully you did not bend any valves.

I have a good 98 2.5 DOHC with a bent valve. I could send you the short block. $100 + Shipping

I'd fix it. Drop the complete exhaust in one section Disconnect the engine to fire wall link Jack the back of the car as high as you can Drain the Trans fluid Support the trans at the front end with a block of wood and jack on the front diff, just in front of the pan Drop the rear Trans support Remove the Speed sensor on the tail shaft Drop the Drive shaft Pull the rear trans housing and replace the C-Duty, if it's bad. The last one I fixed, the wire was broken off the connector. Fixed the wire and all is fine. Cost - a few hours and one gasket for the tail shaft housing. That was in rust free CO. you may need a little more time.

Many times it's just the o-ring on the top of the pump. It's a Subaru part, at least I have never found one that fit if it was not the Subaru part. They are under a $2 so well worth it. Try that first. If it does not fix the problem then you can either go used or rebuild. The rebuild needs to be done with care. If you can find a good used one that's great, but leaking pumps are the norm.

Bump, can some one verify the FSM Here is what I have: Anyone have the wiring pin out for the front O2 sensor for a 2003 SOHC 2.5 Legacy Outback. Red Y/R White Yellow That is the wires I have looking at the front of the plug but all of the wires were pulled out when I go the car.

When it loosed power if you take your foot off the gas does it idle just fine? If so, the MAF sensor is going bad. Just fixed a friends 96 Impreza that would "die" at random. It was loosing the MAF signal. Got a used Subaru MAF from the yard, problem fixed.

Hope you got a great deal! You didn't say auto or manual trans, but either will leak fluid out the tail shaft if the rear driveshaft is not installed. Best to get the shaft and install it. If it's just the tail shaft housing that is bad you may just be able to replace it, the trans may be fine.

www.car-part.com or find a self server yard where you can pull one for under $200. Nice thing about a yard, you can practice on their car :>)

Well you didn't tell us what year Outback you purchased. Yes many of the dealers have online parts with up to 25% off. Subaru Filters are good filters and do the job. They have a round oring style seal instead of the square cut seal and seal better. You only have to change the crush ring if it's damaged. Only the Drivers window comes in the auto full up or down function. HG on the 2000+ have external leaks, oil or coolant. Make sure you run the Subaru coolant conditioner and keep an eye on leaks. They start small and will stay that way for a long time. Enjoy your new Subaru

The metal fitting in the center of the line should be inside the struct bracket, not on top of it. Easy fix. Yes the strut is installed correctly.

On most Subaru's they are under a little carpet flap on the body vertical wall coming up from the pan. One on each side. I replace the carpet if it's torn or pull and power wash. Just make sure you let it dry well before you install it. It's pretty easy to fine good used carpet at the Self Serve yards. Pull the Seats, the counsel and trim panels and you have the carpet out and cheap. $30 or so.

Nice, wish they offered the 6 cylinder with a manual in the US. Solid car, follow the recommend Maintenance schedule and enjoy your new Subaru.

Looks like the ground wire that comes off the ABS unit and grounds to the ABS mounting bolt to frame.

There are a couple of ground wires that come out of the main harness running under the radiator, they hook to the frame.

Yes there is an oring on the bottom of the tank to pump connection. It's a Subaru part. If it's leaking there are rebuild kits for the complete pump. Search the USMB.

Yep that's the oil pressure sensor. Very easy to change, just screws in. Most of the leak is most likely the Power Steering pump. Major leak source on the Subaru engines.

Make sure you reseal the rear Breather Plate. If it's plastic, its best to get the metal version. Pretty cheap from the dealer.

$150 and I'll give you everything you need to swap to Disk and new lateral links. Larry Colorado Springs.

I always lock up the cams by using the old belt and taking it around the crank and the cam pulleys and putting a vice grips on the belt in the middle. I do this on the SOHC engine but I believe it would work on the quad cams as well. Use the old belt so you don't damage the new one.

Nope, I've done several conversions and they work just fine. Everything bolts right up. I take it you have soaked the link bolt and bushings for a few days before trying this? Most of the time I don't have problems with CO cars getting this bolt out. Soak it and then try it again. If you need to cut the bolt, I have them. Larry

Must not be a colorado car. Yes you have to cut the bolt. Easier to go to the UPull and Pay and get good rust free ones. You could also convert to disk brakes if you wanted to. I have everything you need for a swap. Colorado Springs, CO

Yes, the should swap over. Sometimes you will run into spring seat issues, but you will not know for sure until you have the struts out. Sometimes I have to put a washer under the nut to make up for the longer stud on the strut.