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Thanks, I've pulled plenty of the 95-99 but none of the 2000 and up.

The outside edges of the dash are very dim in the back lighting. I suspect the bulbs are out. I have not looked at it yet, but how do you pull the gauge cluster? Thanks Larry

If you have a cutting torch you could always cut the spring to release the tension and then get new springs.

Yea, once winter goes away a good cleaning is in order. I'd also check the PCV hose coming out of the block. Those tend to crack. Easy fixes first as the other have indicated.

P1507 Idle Control System Malfunction (Fail Safe) If the AT Temp Light is flashing 16 times after you start it you also have a trans fault.

2001 2.5 SOHC. I will double check the lines, but I believe they are all correct and clean. Thanks, Larry

If the intake if off, leave it off until you have the flex plate bolted up to the TC. The intake goes on easy enough. If you already have the Intake on but have not bolted up the engine to the frame you can raise the engine and trans and get the bolts started and almost tight from the bottom and then use a 6 point 1/4 socket to finish from the top through the access hole. Better access if you pull the plugs on the TPS and the breather hoses going to the PCV. I use the AC bracket of one of the 14 mm bolts that hold it to hook up the chain. Make sure the TC is seated completely, if you push back and rotate it, it will just hit the starter gear. Lots of information on seating the torque converter.

Back to this project: New Subaru PCV installed. It decreased consumption some but not much. Still using over a qt for every tank 300 miles. Ran MM Oil in the engine trying to free up any possible stuck rings Plugs very black and oily, Cylinder Compression Leakdown 1 135 100/96 = 4% 2 140 100/97 = 3% 3 140 100/97 = 3% 4 135 100/96 = 4% The leakage was heard in the oil fill, so it's going past the rings but I don't think it's excessive. For the Compression reading, remember I'm at 6300 ft here in Colorado so the numbers are lower than what you'd see at sea level. Once my Oil Pan Oring seal gets here I'm going to drop the pan and inspect that seal. If it's not that seal, what else could it be? The engine runs great, Head Gaskets just completed. No external leaks. New Subaru PCV.

The little seal at the rear of the pan on the breather tube. It's a little cup type seal.

SEALING OIL PAN Make: Subaru | Part#: 11122AA340 List Price: $16.03 Your Price: $11.54 Pretty crazy for a little seal. Guess that's how it goes.

I usually let is set up for a day so the cure is pretty complete. The oil pickup has a pretty fine screen so if something did break off, i doubt it would get into the pump.

5w-30 is what I use in my 98 Impreza with 320K. I would stay with regular dino oil. No need to switch and it will most likely cause problems not prevent them. Quality lube has all the essentials to prevent wear.

At the self serve yards you can pull the complete door in Colorado doors are $50 - $75 complete. It's a wire connector, 4 or 6 bolts and the pin that goes the the rod that keeps the door from opening to far. If you not in a rush, wait for one of the same color and there will be not difference. Waist to get it fixed and painted when you can bolt on a Subaru part from the yard.

Replace the o-ring on the PCV drain back tube at the back of the pan. If that doesn't seal you'll suck oily vapors into the PCV constantly and smoke like a pig and use lots of oil. I hope this is the problem in the 2001 2.5 that I did the HG on. The PO had bent all of the intake valves. It runs great but sucks a quart every 200 miles. Plugs are very dark and sooty.

Dipstick tube has 2 orings on it so it should be fine. Most likely people that had problems bent the tube getting it out. It's held on with a single 10mm bolt up on top of the engine.

I have done boots on the car. The inner boot is pretty easy as the inner joint is held on with a external snap ring. The outter one could be done but it takes a pretty solid hit against the inner joint to pop it off the axle.

Thanks, There is a 2001 at the Aurora UPAP that was hit pretty hard in the front. parts of the engine are still there and the trans is there. Someone pulled the half shafts without removing the roll pin so they pulled the stub shafts out as well. Think I'll just watch the COS UPAP and wait for one to come up.

Trans was rebuilt a few years ago by Aamco according to the PO. The front diff went on it, low gear lube i suspect, there are chunks in the diff. According to the yards and www.car-part.com the trans requires a 2002 or 2003. Think it's worth changing out the front Diff? Anyone with a Trans in CO? Thanks Larry

Most likely a the drive shaft seal in the tail shaft housing. Just have to clean it up and then find the leak.

Remember if you are reading voltage with no load on the circuit the meter can lie to you. Check out www.brighterideas.com or LoadPro on Youtube. Dan has some great electrical training. If you located the relay, you can remove it and jump the main contacts, that would provide power to the pump always. Do you have a Subaru or aftermarket Security system? I've removed so many of the aftermarket ones that were bad. Junk.

Yep, metal chunks in the Diff. The Trans was rebuilt by Amaco about 4 years ago according to the PO. Low on Gear lube Low on Trans fluid. Yes it pays to check fluids. So Replacement Trans is in order and the HG will be done as the Drivers side is leaking oil and coolant.

Best to have an 2.2 with EGR and matching dual port exhaust. Both of those issues can be overcome. Plug and Play. Double check the harness connections. If it was a early 95 really a 94, you could still use the engine, you would just need an intake from a 95 2.2

Thanks, I did not drain the front Diff yet, but I suspect it's gone. Large jumps in the drive when there is any pressure on it and I can spin one wheel and the opposite side does not rotate. I'll drain it and see what comes out.

Guess I may be the first on the USMB.

I've done swaps on 96 Auto to Manual Trans, but have the opportunity to pick up a 2003 with that needs engine and trans work. The trans was rebuilt once already, 4 years ago, and is having issues again. I could just source a used trans and drop it in but I like Manual transmissions better. Thanks